The caller identified herself and asked if I would be interested in appraising a one man submarine. Initially, I declined, as this is outside of my area of expertise. She then said she was with the reality television show “Pawn Stars” and could I help her locate an expert.
I told my kids about the call and they quickly became excited. They knew the show. I could not find a submarine expert, and with my kids’ encouragement, I called back to the production company and told them I would accept the assignment. As valuations of unusual vessels are not unusual, I was confident I could do the job but I insisted that I could not comment on the safety or function of the submarine. They engaged my services and explained the rules of reality television, i.e. no pay!
I told the kids I had been hired, but “hiring” in this case, did not include any pay. I was extremely pleased with my children’s universal rejecting the idea of working for free. However, their excitement had become contagious and I had caught the reality television bug. This reality television show, with which I had little exposure, had peaked my curiosity and I was scheduled to appear.
Chumlee, my daughter and Rick
The show is based on a pawn shop in Las Vegas. It is run by three generations of men and they are the “stars”, along with a comic foil nick named Chumlee. The show has a very large following as it utilizes interesting historical facts and hires various experts to explain and value a myriad of items that are being pawned.
My mother was traveling from Florida to Las Vegas where the show is filmed, and we scheduled the shoot to coincide with that trip. My 10 year old daughter and I arrived at the World Famous Gold & Silver Pawn Shop bright and early. The production company had provided scant details about the submarine, most of which proved erroneous. I prepared as well as possible, inspected the submarine and was ready to shoot. It started raining. The shoot was delayed.
After inspecting the submarine I was able to obtain valid information and perform a real appraisal. The shoot was rescheduled and completed.
The premier of the show was on Monday, April 11th 2011. The episode involving the submarine is entitled “Sub For Sale” and can be seen on the History Channel’s web site, reruns on the history channel, syndicated on other channels or pay per view.
One of the themes of Pawn Stars is “you never know what’s going to walk through that door” and the same holds true at Christian & Company Marine Surveyors.
On a recent rainy winter day I surveyed two boats. I had the pleasure to meet two nice, intelligent and experienced boat owners. At the end of the day, I decided to tell this story.
Both vessels were fiberglass power vessels built in Taiwan. Both vessels were equipped with two diesel engines that were manufactured in America. Both of the clients were knowledgeable and active boaters.
On this particular day a winter storm was just passing through. As I drove to the first boat, at a nice San Diego yacht club there were short sporadic rain showers. The client met me at the gate to the club, welcomed me aboard and turned on the electric heater, which was part of the climate control system aboard the vessel.
The vessel was a relatively new, luxury motor vessel in excellent cosmetic condition. My client was the son of the original buyer who was reportedly advancing in age and using the vessel infrequently. The client who was my age (late forties) had grown up boating with an extensive sailing history.
The survey went as anticipated until I entered the engine room. The starboard engine’s after cooler (a device that cools the combustion air between the turbocharger and the cylinders in the engine) exhibited moderate corrosion. It was mounted inboard, between the engines and was easy to see and access. A metal support for the starboard engine’s exhaust tube was disconnected. These findings, while significant, were not remarkable.
As I worked my way about the engine room, in my normal, linear fashion, I came across a substantial deficiency. Outboard of the port engine, in a location that was difficult to access, I noted an accumulation of debris in the bilge. Looking up from the debris I saw a severely corroded after cooler. The condition had no doubt continued for an extended period of time and had advanced to a critical stage.
While discussing the findings with the client, he asked if it was safe to drive the vessel to the boat yard. I responded that if the engine was starting and running normally, it was unlikely that a short trip to the boat yard would cause significantly more damage. He stated that the engine was not starting normally and had not been starting normally for some time. He said he had had a mechanic aboard, and the problem had been diagnosed as a malfunction of the pre-heating system of the engine. He subsequently explained that the mechanic was actually servicing another vessel on the dock and had only come aboard briefly as a favor. The client had obtained free advice and it had been worth every penny of it.
At the end of the survey the sun had come out, the showers had stopped and we had begun to right the course on the maintenance of the engines on this nice boat.
I got in the truck and headed south for the second job of the day. Upon arrival at a boat yard in Ensenada I found the vessel hauled and the owner aboard. His diesel heater was already on, providing comfort inside and a welcome reprieve from the cold drizzle which began shortly after my arrival. This vessel was significantly older than the first, not as pretty, modern or expensive. The owner was a live aboard and had worked most of his life in mechanical jobs, mostly for the railroad.
He had many plans for the vessel and many projects which were already accomplished.
Upon entering the engine room I noticed that the engines looked their age, with minor surface rust, and failing, dull paint. With the surveyor’s eye I noticed something different with the peripheral components. There were many new hoses and hose clamps. The end caps for the heat exchangers were clean, unpainted and free of any salt crystal accumulation about their apparently new gaskets. The water pumps were also clean and exhibited no stains, weeps or corrosion.
The survey went as anticipated and had the usual number and type of findings. During the survey the sun caught up with me and we turned off the diesel heater.
The lesson from this day and these two vessels is not new. It is that maintenance is important, can be done in many different manners, and requires periodic assessment. In the first case the client was intelligent and experienced, but was relatively new to power boats, large diesel engines and to this vessel in particular. The original owner of this relatively new vessel was no longer active in its maintenance and service regimen was inadequate.
Routine maintenance of diesel engines includes replacement of sacrificial zinc anodes in many of the components. Heat exchangers, after coolers and oil coolers are often fitted with sacrificial anodes and anodes require periodic replacement. As a rule, any seawater component on an engine will require maintenance. Beginning at the through hull and its valve, the sea strainer, sea water pump, coolers and ultimately the exhaust mixing elbow and exhaust system components all need attention.
Another lesson which the first vessel reinforced was to pay attention to changes in your vessel. In this case the port engine had become hard to start and a proper inspection and diagnoses had not been accomplished. Hopefully the damage was not extensive or expensive, but it is certain that the sooner the problem is addressed the greater the chance to reduce the repair expense and inconvenience.
The lesson from the second vessel was that there are many ways to maintain a boat. A trained mechanic can be hired to perform inspections and service on routine intervals or owners can learn how and maintain the mechanical systems themselves.
On the drive back home the rain was gone and a huge, full and vibrant rainbow came out.
I felt that the surveys were successful and though we found no pot of gold, we did persevere through the storm to continue cruising in the sunshine.
Os-mo-sis (oz mo’sis) n: 1. Physical Chem a. the tendency of a fluid to pass through a semi-permeable membrane into a solution where its concentration is lower, thus equalizing the conditions on either side of the membrane b. the diffusion of fluid through membranes or porous partitions.*
*From the Random House Dictionary of the English Language.
In 1990 when a boat was hauled for a pre-purchase survey the potential buyer and both brokers often watched carefully as the hull broke the surface of the water. The brokers were mesmerized, certain that this moment would determine the outcome of the sale and their commission. The potential buyer was rapt with anticipation, fearing for the worst but hoping for a smooth blister free bottom. Being neutral with respect to the completion of the sale reduced the stress for the surveyor, but the tension always reached a crescendo when the hull bottom was fully visible. We called this the “broker’s moment”.
A sea change in perceived significance of blisters has occurred since then. Gradually, over two decades, many fiberglass boat owners and potential buyers have come to accept blisters as a normal condition with fiberglass hulls. While “the broker’s moment” has lost its drama, discussions regarding the significance of blister continue, often under or near boats hauled for survey.
The scientific data which we have reviewed over the years has generally been developed by an entity with an interest in the outcome. Resin manufacturers, repair facilities, repair tool suppliers and boat builders are among the sources of information we have reviewed. We are not aware of an independent, unbiased, scientific study of the root cause of blisters or repair method effectivity. The opinions expressed in this article come from our experience in the field, including lengthy discussions with multitudes of repairers and boat owners. Our opinions are based on examples of boats that have had various types of repairs performed due to blisters and on blistered boats which have been left un-repaired.
To begin the inspection process for blisters it is not necessary to haul the vessel. The determination of the existence of blisters is most easily achieved by a diver. During the age of the “broker’s moment”, we would often suggest having a diver inspect the bottom first, and save everyone some time and the potential buyer some money.
When the vessel is hauled from the water for survey, it is imperative that the hull bottom be clean to allow detection of blisters. Marine growth can hide blisters, particularly small blisters. A pressure washer can reveal blisters on a hull bottom as it were a magic wand.
After the existence of blisters is confirmed visually, probing them provides more information. Blisters can occur within an exterior coating and are often found between the anti-fouling paint and a barrier coat. Blisters can occur within any layer of laminate, they can be hard or soft, wet or dry. We characterize blisters by their size, depth, location (external coatings, below coating, within laminate etc…) number and location. We feel larger blisters are of greater concern than a large number of blisters. The depth of the blister is generally proportionate to its diameter.
Most fiberglass boats are built of polyester resin. Polyester resin contains organic components, which will dissolve in water. “Blister juice” is a sticky, brown fluid with a distinct odor. It is found in wet blisters which originate within the laminate and can be found in surface blisters, where the water has dissolved part of the polyester gelcoat.
The basic scientific premise is that water molecules diffuse through the exterior barrier (usually gelcoat) and collect in pockets below the coatings or within the laminate; thus the term “osmotic blisters”. Water then dissolves the organic components of the polyester resin and the resulting pressure pushes the coatings or laminate outward, forming the blister.
The significance of blisters is often debated among professionals. The undersigned is relatively “light” with respect to their significance. We interface regularly with several respected professionals who don’t share our opinion. The other side of the spectrum feels that blisters are cancerous and require eradication to prevent their certain, gradual and insidious growth. While we concur that no good can come of blisters and we would prefer all hulls without them, we feel that they are generally inconsequential to the ownership, operation and maintenance of a vessel.
We have never heard of a blister sinking a boat. We have not encountered multiple blisters connecting and causing large scale delamination. We are well aware of many examples of large scale delamination, however none of them have been attributed to osmotic blisters.
We have found blisters which we feel (and specify in our reports) require repair, generally they are over 3” in diameter and well into the laminate.
There are various repair options for blisters. The depth of the blisters is often considered when deciding if and how to repair them. While blisters that originate between external coatings or the gelcoat and a barrier coat are less significant structurally, the same repair options apply. A boat owner can do nothing, repair individual blisters or have “a blister job” performed on the entire hull bottom.
Repairing blisters locally consists of grinding the individual blister, filling the divot (a rare golf analogy in a boat story) and repainting. This method is suitable for local repairs and recommended for a boat bottom with a few large blisters.
A “blister job” involves removing the exterior coatings entirely, grinding away any dry fibers which remain in the area of the blisters, allowing the laminate on the hull bottom to dry, filling individual blisters and recoating the bottom. Often the bottom is coated with fiberglass material impregnated with vinylester or epoxy resins. The intent is to provide a barrier to prevent the osmosis of water, a repetition of the blister process and to return any strength removed by the removal of exterior coatings and laminates.
Many blister repairs have been successful, and in San Diego, Hull Tech is an experienced company that successfully provides this service for many boat owners. However, many boats which have had blister jobs have had the unfortunate experience of more blisters in the future. At an average “low end” cost of $225.00 per foot, ranging upward to double that amount, a blister is a significant financial commitment. As this is a labor intensive repair, it is not uncommon to have this job done in areas with less expensive labor. Mexico is an option and Baja Naval is a skilled facility in Ensenada. If you decide to have a “blister job”, choose the vendor wisely. While the value of the vessel will certainly be increased as a result, the increase will likely not be equal to the cost of the blister job.
The majority of boaters who own a boat with blisters choose to do nothing. We advise them that the blisters are not going to go away and will likely increase with time. It is uncertain at what rate they will increase or how large they will ultimately get, but they are certain to remain. The disclosure of their existence prior to the haul out for survey is the best way to diffuse their effect on a sale transaction. An allowance for blisters is almost certainly less expensive than the cost of a “blister job”.
In short it is our opinion that blisters are an unfortunate but regular occurrence on fiberglass hulls. Their significance is primarily on the day of sale and rarely significant with respect to the ownership, operation and maintenance of the vessel.
The singularly most misunderstood, but frequently discussed, problem in boating is corrosion. Corrosion of metal components below the waterline will be a problem all boaters will eventually encounter and inevitably discuss with their boating neighbors. By far, the best source of information is a specialist such as a marine electrician, electrical engineer or metallurgist. Unfortunately most of them speak an incomprehensible language. Furthermore, the few specialists who are able to speak in simple, understandable terms don’t stop in time. They continue their explanations about ions, electrons and current carrying conductors until the basic explanation gets lost in the mental overload that follows. For those who wish to understand this subject in basic terms, you are in luck. The following explanation is written by an electrical simpleton and remains basic from start to finish.
Let’s begin with some very basic concepts. Alternating current (AC) is the type of electricity from the shore power cord, generator or alternator. Direct current (DC) is the type of electricity from the batteries. Circuit breakers are designed to prevent the overheating of wires and fires. Ground fault circuit interrupter devices, such as G.F.C.I. protected AC electrical outlets are designed to protect people. It is more important to protect people and prevent fires than it is to prevent corrosion. Bonding is connecting metal components with wires, resulting in electrical continuity. This is done with most below waterline metal components, including through hulls, struts, propeller shafts and rudders.
Aluminum corrosion
Testing for voltage and current can get complicated fast. The only testing we will discuss is electrical continuity. On virtually all electrical meters there is a continuity test, the symbol is an ohm sign (horse shoe). To determine if one metal component has continuity to another, set the tester on this setting, touch one metal with one of the tester’s leads and touch the other metal component with the other lead, continuity is indicated by a beep or a number. A number near one is good continuity. This test will allow you to determine if your rudder is continuous with a sacrificial anode or if a through hull is included in the bonding system.
It is unlikely that the cause of your corrosion problem is the “stupid wiring” at the marina. The wiring on your dock is almost certainly to an electrical code. The wiring on your boat is almost certainly not to code, as the only legal requirements apply to commercial, not recreational vessels. There is no “code” or Coast Guard requirements for the electrical system on your boat. While there are standards and recommended practices, compliance with them is voluntary. Regardless, metal corrosion in boats is a result of the laws of nature or a failure aboard the boat and rarely a result of a problem with the wiring on the dock.
The normally green AC ground wire used by the marina does provide a path for an electrical current that can contribute to corrosion. It also provides a path to ground in the event of an electrical problem and is designed to save lives. Don’t cut it! There are two common choices that can be used to allow the safety aspects of the AC ground wire and reduce or eliminate its contribution to corrosion, galvanic isolators and isolation transformers. Galvanic isolators are relatively inexpensive devices that prevent most problems associated with the AC ground wire. A more sophisticated, expensive and reliable method to prevent AC ground wire related corrosion is an isolation transformer. Without falling into the abyss of electrical theory, both devices reduce the potential for corrosion on your vessel. By using these devices and leaving the AC ground wire connected as designed, the boater can reduce or prevent corrosion while allowing the safety components to function as designed.
There are two primary types of corrosion experienced by boaters: galvanic and stray current. Galvanic corrosion is a natural process which occurs when dissimilar metals have electrical continuity and are immersed in the same electrolyte. In other words, different metals are either in contact with each other or connected by a wire and they are in the same body of water. This is by far the most common cause of corrosion. Stray current corrosion is caused by an electrical current leak and in the boater’s world is almost exclusively direct current (DC). This simply means that the primary source of the power driving this type of corrosion is your batteries not your shore power cord.
Another type of corrosion experienced mostly by high performance vessels is called cavitation corrosion or impingement. This primarily is seen on high speed propellers or rudders and is not addressed in this article. Anaerobic corrosion or oxygen starvation damage effects stainless steel where it is wet and starved of oxygen. Sailboat rigging and propeller shafts are common victims of this type of corrosion; this is also not addressed in this article. Both of these types of corrosion are unusual.
Galvanic corrosion is the common cause of corrosion on boats. The prerequisites, electrical continuity between the dissimilar metals and common water are the only things we need to understand to fight the good fight against it. If we bond all below waterline components, the least noble metal will corrode faster. While the theory is most easily understood if we use two separate pieces of metal in our examples, a single metal component can galvanically corrode. A bronze propeller is an alloy of several metallic elements, including copper and zinc. In this example, if left unprotected, the zinc will corrode out of the alloy, leaving a higher concentration of copper. This results in a pink color, versus bronze or gold. It also results in a much softer and weaker metal. Galvanic corrosion can also occur where two dissimilar alloys are in contact above the waterline, such as a steel fastener in an aluminum toe rail. In this case the aluminum will corrode. The least noble metal will lose this fight every time. This is a fundamental law of nature.
To protect against galvanic corrosion we use paint, sacrificial anodes (usually zinc), galvanic isolators or isolation transformers. The most effective form of protection is paint. If a piece of metal is completely isolated from the ocean by paint, it will not corrode. This is the initial method for protecting outdrives and outboard engines. The paint has to be designed for this purpose; anti-fouling paint is not designed to prevent corrosion. Metal boats are painted to reduce corrosion.
For a sacrificial zinc anode to protect a metal component from corrosion, it needs to have electrical conductivity and immersion in the same body of water. In other words your zinc anode must be touching or connected by a wire to the metal you are trying to protect and they both have to be on the bottom of your boat or in the same component in your engine. Simply speaking, connect all submerged metal to the zinc anode. The anode on your transom is not protecting your rudder unless your meter beeps when you touch both components. The sacrificial anode in the engine’s heat exchanger (a big round tube on the back of your engine) does not prevent corrosion in the exhaust manifolds. And, by the way, you should replace that anode in your heat exchanger.
The plate zinc on your transom rarely protects the propeller shaft and the propeller. It is difficult to maintain continuity with a propeller shaft that spins several thousand revolutions per minute. The most practical means to protect the propeller shaft and propeller from galvanic corrosion is a collar zinc installed directly on the shaft. You do not need to put a zinc anode on every piece of submerged metal. However, if you wish to provide galvanic corrosion protection, the metal does require continuity with a zinc anode located somewhere on the bottom of the boat.
By their nature, outdrives have corrosion challenges. Aluminum is low on the galvanic chart thus subject to corrosion more easily than bronze or stainless steel. Zinc anodes can reduce corrosion on an outdrive but the rubber bushings isolate the various components including the hydraulic rams, steering components and transom assemblies. Electrical continuity must be maintained between each component part and a sacrificial zinc anode in order for all parts to have protection. Small cables used for this purpose often become disconnected and the zinc anodes are more difficult to see and maintain than transom plates or propeller shaft collar zincs.
Trim tabs corrode. Deal with it.
Stray current corrosion is a much more rapid and damaging condition. The good news, it is unusual. The bad news, it is much more destructive and more difficult to diagnose. Extreme cases of stray current corrosion can result in a good propeller taking the form of Swiss Cheese in a matter of days. A through hull flange can disappear and solid steel components such as propeller shafts and rudder shafts can be severed. As previously mentioned, the root cause of this problem is a DC electrical stray current leak. An electrical short circuit has occurred and the current is being discharged into the water. One piece of metal will inevitably be coated with a white compound and another piece of metal will suffer metal loss. What the boater will experience is a sudden change in the condition of a submerged metal component, often found by a diver. The root cause will often end up being a failed electric motor, bilge pump or battery charger.
Sacrificial zinc anodes will not protect against stray current corrosion. Superman is defenseless against Kryptonite and metal is defenseless against a stray current. If a stray current problem is suspected, call a professional. The source must be eliminated. Take immediate action, boats have sunk after the through hulls were destroyed by stray current corrosion in a few days.
We do not believe that all metal components necessarily require bonding and protection with a sacrificial zinc anode. While there are standards which recommend this practice, we have seen many quality alloys last for several decades, virtually undamaged. We do believe that a bonding system should be complete if attempted, a complete bonding system or no bonding.
Fiberglass boats can not be “over zinced”, or install so much zinc that damage is caused. Wood and metal boats can be “over zinced”. This issue is particularly important to wooden boat owners. The amount of zinc installed on wooden and metal vessel is important and should be measured and maintained actively.
There are devices available to measure the amount of protection provided by zinc anodes. They are seldom understood or used as designed. If your boat has one, either learn how it works and use it actively or abandon it and use the simple system of bonding everything to a zinc.
There are more sophisticated corrosion prevention systems which are generally used in commercial applications. While zinc anodes are “passive” some outdrives and many steel ships and structures use “active” systems. Some of these systems impress a current into the water to prevent corrosion. These systems are beyond the scope of this article.
Corrosion of that toe rail we discussed earlier (and other above waterline metal) can be reduced by washing away the salts left after a day sailing. We won’t broach the subject of tank failures, just keep them dry.
Remember to protect metal with an anode; it needs electrical conductivity and a shared body of water. Sudden corrosion or significant changes in the metal components require immediate attention by a qualified expert, and follow the advice of that crusty boating neighbor at your peril.
I began my career as a marine surveyor in the specialized niche of a damage assessor. Christian & Company, Marine Surveyors Inc. continues to perform a large number of damage appraisals, working for marine claims departments, boat owners and boat yards. Heavy weather gives rise to an increase in damage claims, with most of the claims occurring while the vessel is in its slip or on a mooring. Based on our experience, there are a few, simple maintenance procedures, which will prevent most heavy weather related damage.
Anticipation and preparation for heavy weather is crucial. Just as most boaters secure loose items to prepare for a voyage, we must prepare our vessels for exposure to heavy weather. The intense rain fall in Southern California in the month of January magnified the problems with leaks.
Many boats have leaks through hatches, port lights or a myriad of hardware fastened to the deck. Many times just properly closing and securing these hatches, tightening the dogs and installing covers is sufficient. Occasionally all hatch gaskets, port light seals and even bedding compound requires maintenance. Water stains on the interior of a vessel are a sure indication of a leak above.
Some vessels accumulate a significant amount of water in the bilge during heavy rainstorms. Hatch drains are a common culprit if they are improperly maintained. A hatch drain plugged with dirt and debris prevents the drain from functioning and will allow the water to run over the lip of the drain and into the bilge.
Many trailer boats “sink” on their trailer. Canvas covers allow rain to pool and leak through. We handle “trailer submersion claims” every spring. Boat covers need to be maintained and installed with a camber, causing the water to run off the vessel and not accumulate on the cover. Drain plugs should be removed, the bow should be up and debris in the bilge should be removed to prevent it from “clogging the drain”. Trailer boats are no different that boats afloat, they need to be checked on periodically and after a heavy rain is a good time.
A trick of the marine surveying trade is to look below areas of water accumulation for problems, including problems with the coring, fungus deterioration, warping of plywood and mould.
Heavy weather can make for unintended docking
Significant rain water accumulation in the bilge of the vessel can always be handled by a functional automatic bilge pump provided that a good power source is available. Bilge pumps and float switches should be checked. Batteries should be charged and chargers should be functional and utilized. While checking the function of bilge pumps, it is a good time to check the discharge systems. If any of the bilge pumps, sump pumps, or similar pumps are located lower than their discharges and the discharge is located below the waterline, the system requires a vented loop to prevent back flooding. Check valves should not be relied upon in this application. The bilge should be clean of debris that can foul the pumps.
Heavy weather also comes with increased winds and large swells. These forces test the lines which are securing vessels. Owners are responsible for portions of their mooring arrangement and most boaters are responsible for their dock lines. Heavy weather requires lines to be checked for chafe, chafe protection to be properly utilized and fenders to be checked and positioned properly.
Absentee owners should engage the services of a maintenance company or a trusted boating friend. Checks should be made before and after all heavy storms. Water leaks or water accumulation should be dealt with preemptively. Bilge pump function, drain systems, covers and the proper securing of lines can be quickly assessed and by doing so much of the damage we see can be prevented.
Insuring a boat against damage is wise. Realize that not all damage is covered by insurance. Long term leaks can lead to coring deterioration, wood rot, mould and mildew and this type of damage may not be covered by insurance. If your vessel is damaged by another vessel which comes loose during a storm, the liability adjuster for the other vessel may decline coverage based on an exclusion for an “act of god”. Having your own insurance will cover you in this instance. The tsunami caused by the Chilean earthquake broke a dock by the Bali Hai restaurant and two boats were separated from their mooring in America’s Cup Harbor. The January storms contributed to the escape of many boats from their moorings.
After the rains subside the vessel should be opened and ventilated. Wet cushions should be lifted and allowed to dry. Fungus deterioration of wood requires wood, proper temperature range, fungus spores and moisture. The only one of those four prerequisites that is under the control of most boat owners is moisture. Properly ventilating the vessel after a rain storm will also prevent mould and mildew.
Sailboats need to consider if the sails are properly secured. Walk through a marina during a storm and you are sure to see a couple roller furling jibs flogging in the wind. Powerboats should consider their canvas as well. Is the canvas or enclosure properly secure? Is the external upholstery secure? Is the tender secure and covered to prevent water accumulation?
We hope this is helpful and informative and will assist in reducing damage to your boat, but if not, perhaps we will have the opportunity to spend some time with you. Please keep Christian & Company Marine Surveyors, Inc. in mind for any future marine surveying needs of yours or your boating friends.
A marine survey performed at the time a vessel is listed for sale allows the broker and seller the opportunity to address deficiencies in advance of the sale’s process, facilitating a smooth sales process. It also provides a realistic appraisal and it enhances the listing.
A seller’s survey, though non-traditional, has been used as an effective sales tool by many experienced sellers and brokers for some time. Identifying deficiencies in a vessel, which will inevitably lead to further negotiations, increases the closing percentage. Every deficiency which requires negotiation is another opportunity for the buyer or seller to alter the course of the sale. Negotiating repairs or contingency fees delays the sale process. Addressing deficiencies prior to the sales contract provides for a more fluid and hassle free sales process.
A recent survey commissioned by the seller found a loose steering stop. The problem was potentially serious, as a slight progression could have resulted in steering failure. Fortunately, the problem was easily addressed. This allowed the seller to choose the repairer and repair method with no pressure, effect the repair and eliminate this problem prior to the sales process. This is the type of problem, even when skillfully explained, that can create questions in the buyer’s mind. This boat is being sold and there will be no issue with the steering system during the buyer’s survey.
A seller’s survey does not necessarily preclude a buyer’s survey. A unique option we are promoting is a “split survey”. If the buyer and seller agree to share their surveys, a positive result is obtained from the purchase process, whether or not that sale is consummated. If the buyer does not proceed with the purchase, they have saved money on the survey process and the seller/owner has a full and complete survey, also at a significant savings. If the sale is consummated, the buyer has saved money on the survey cost and the seller has obtained their ultimate goal.
We offer a seller’s survey at a discount from our standard buyer’s survey price. The seller’s survey is performed in the slip, the machine systems are not tested during a sea trial, the vessel is not hauled but most deficiencies can still be reported and addressed prior to a sales contract being signed. The seller’s survey can be coupled with a sea trial and bottom inspection, funded by the buyer, and these surveys together should meet all the requirements for finance and insurance and provide the buyer and seller with a thorough condition and valuation report, inclusive of a bottom inspection and sea trial.
Some lenders and insurance carriers are requesting the surveyor comment on the function of the engines, the sea trial takes care of this issue.
In the unsteady economic times we have noticed a sharp decline in boat values. An independent appraisal of the value is advantageous to the seller and the broker. The seller can rest assured that the surveyor has no financial interest in the evaluation and the independent appraisal can assist the broker in their dealings with the seller and with potential buyers.
The existence of a recent marine survey, particularly if done by a marine surveying company known for professionalism, integrity and thoroughness, enhances a listing. It provides more information for potential buyers to consider, thus capturing their attention and increasing the chances of their making an offer. It provides additional information for brokers browsing listings and is an invaluable tool in the listing process. The existence of a recent survey provides an advantage to the seller in a tough market where any advantage is important. In the example of the steering system repair, the survey finding was addressed and the combination of the survey, recommendation compliance comment and physical repair, gives the potential buyer an indication of “pride of ownership”.
Any vessel listed for sale or potentially for sale should have the bottom inspected during each haul out. This provides a future potential buyer with documentation of the condition of the vessel and may save the expense of a second haul for survey. It provides the seller with the documentation of the condition of the bottom, which is often useful when seeking insurance or financing, which are occasionally unexpected needs.
Christian & Company Marine Surveyors is ideally suited to perform seller’s surveys. We excel in customer service and welcome enquiries from potential buyers. We communicate effectively to reduce fear and confusion while accurately portraying the condition of the vessel. Our friendly office staff facilitates the transmission of surveys, communication between clients and our three surveyors and maintains customer service at the highest level in our industry.
Marine surveyors’ primary product to the boating community is a vessel condition and valuation report. By default marine surveyors have become the de-facto vessel appraisers in the United States. Due to the falling value of vessels, Christian & Company has received numerous requests for appraisals in order to lower the basis for property tax assessment. As a result, we did some research to educate ourselves and to share what we learned with others who may be interested.
In California there is a state personal property tax of 1% per year. The research we did was primarily through the San Diego Tax Assessors office; they are extremely helpful. They appraise vessels and assess taxes, which include the 1% state personal property tax and may include slightly more taxes depending on geographic location for items such as retiring bonds. The additional localized taxes seldom are more than .2 percent. The address for the San Diego marine and aviation tax assessor’s office is 9225 Claremont Mesa Blvd. 1st Floor, San Diego, California 92123. Phone numbers for San Diego, Orange County, Los Angeles and Ventura counties are included at the end of this document.
All vessels located within the county on January 1st of each year are subject to the tax. A list of all vessels registered in the state of California is provided to the tax assessor’s office by the California Department of Motor Vehicles. The DMV does not collect the property tax on vessels; it is collected by the County Assessors office. Marina operators provide a list of slip renters and the assessors office has a team of four who “walk the docks”, collecting information on vessels to supplement the information provided by marina operators. This is the method for obtaining a list of U.S. documented vessels that are subject to the tax.
When the vessel first appears on the tax assessor’s roll, it is appraised. The assessor appraises the value as of January 1st of each year. The initial value may be determined by the purchase price or through appraisal techniques. Among tools available and used by the assessor’s office are value guide books including A.B.O.S., N.A.D.A. and B.U.C. and value data bases available on the internet. Due to the number of vessels which require appraisal and the limited personnel, the value of an individual vessel is not thoroughly and extensively researched by the tax assessor’s office and vessel inspections are not performed. They appraise thousands of vessels and thus are unable to spend too much time on each appraisal.
After an initial value of a vessel is established, the subsequent value is adjusted annually per a depreciation scale determined by the tax assessor’s office. A higher depreciation percentage is applied to new vessels and the percentage of depreciation decreases with age.
Based on our experience, vessel values have suffered a significant decrease in the last two years and are currently trending rapidly downward. We recommend you take a few moments to review the appraised value of your vessel and feel free to call or email us if you would like a free verbal approximation of its value. Perhaps a formal appraisal of your vessel will allow a reduction in taxes for the immediate tax bill and for years to come.
The tax assessor’s office has no firm or written guidelines as to what they will accept as proof of value for your vessel. There is a handbook available through the State Board of Equalization. A marine survey is one of the options available for you to document the current value of your vessel. The tax assessor’s office will consider any documentation and if they agree, they will change the appraised value and the tax accordingly. If they disagree with your value an appeal can be made. Appeals are initially addressed with a second consideration of the value and are followed with a board review if the vessel owner and the assessor’s office still disagree on valuation.
Christian & Company Marine Surveyors, Inc. would be happy to provide a written valuation of your vessel and our fee is often less than the tax savings in a single year, with additional financial benefits in the years to follow.
County Tax Assessor – Marine and Aviation contact telephone numbers:
As the name of the article implies, we feel that maintaining suitable insurance on your vessel is important. We buy insurance to protect us from unexpected events and there are the obvious reasons to insure your boat and there are lesser known, but important benefits, which we will discuss. Over two decades of assisting marine insurance carriers with damage claims is the perspective from which this article is written and it was inspired by a recent speech at a San Diego area yacht club. The gathering of “seasoned” boaters requested that the undersigned speak about the importance of maintaining suitable boat insurance and how to maintain the boat so it “passes” survey. This is part one of a two part article based on that speech.
Most of the insurance claims which we have handled involve either damage to the boat owned by the insured or financial exposures to the boat owner for liability arising from that ownership. A boat owner can choose to buy liability only insurance, however most boat policies include coverage for both types of losses. Generally, liability only insurance is purchased if the vessel itself can be lost without significant financial harm to the owner, but he or she chooses or is required to provide liability protection for themselves or a marina. This option protects assets other than the boat. Liability only insurance, is usually purchased to save money, as it costs less than a policy offering full coverage. Liability insurance does not offer coverage for damage to your boat.
Damage to your vessel, covered under your policy of insurance is referred to as a first party claim. The handling of the claim including the coverage decisions, adjustment and payments are governed by the insurance policy. The policy is a contract between the insured and the insurance carrier and it stipulates what is covered, what is excluded, what is depreciated and other important details. On the declarations page of the policy you will find your limits of coverage, deductibles and the various components of the policy, which will include vessel value limitation and liability exposure limitations.
Typical first party claims involve submersions or partial submersions, collisions or an allision *, fires, smoke and machinery failure. The basic purpose for property damage coverage in your boat insurance claim is to minimize your financial exposure due to an unexpected, accidental loss to your boat. Many policies also use language such as “sudden” and “fortuitous”, with the idea that gradual wear and tear, deterioration and normal maintenance are not covered.
In the second part of this article we will discuss the most common causes of the typical claims and how to maintain a vessel to prevent them. The underlying idea that the claims are “unexpected” is the most important motivation for maintaining first party coverage. While most of the boat owners with whom we interface while handling claims did not anticipate the loss, many times there are clues which foreshadowed the loss. Being aware of a subtle, small change in the condition of the vessel will often prevent a significant loss by breaking the chain of unfortunate circumstances which often precede a significant damage claim.
Submersions often occur due to the failure of a bilge pump, or so we are told by boat owners. In every submersion claim we have ever handled, the basic cause of the loss is always the same. While the bilge pump failure may have contributed, the true cause of the submersion is always “too much water on the inside”. Boats, even wooden boats, should keep the water on the outside. If you find water accumulating in the bilge, or the bilge pump is cycling, determine the source of the leak immediately.
Similarly address any change in the condition or function of the boat and its systems when they are first noticed. If the circuit breaker trips, determine the cause and address it appropriately. If your engine has always been reliable and starts on the first turn, but today cranks for several seconds before starting. Don’t ignore the clues your boat is trying to give you. We have noticed that recreational boats’ engines rarely wear out; the failures are usually the result of a component failure that goes unchecked. Conversely commercial boat’s engines hiccup and the captain notices and addresses the issue, leading to much longer service lives than recreational boats’ engines.
Machinery failure is a component of boat insurance policy that is often misunderstood. Some policies exclude machinery failure. Most policies provide coverage for machinery failure, but all policies limit coverage based on the cause of loss. We see engine failures covered by boat insurance policies regularly. Maintain the vessel and the engine; pay attention to clues to prevent catastrophic failure but don’t overlook possible assistance from your insurance policy if a catastrophe occurs.
A boat owner’s nephew was taking the boat out on a summer holiday. After a short time, he noticed a change in the engine. The change was small and included a different noise and a change in the exhaust smoke. He slowed the engines, turned them off and discussed the situation with the other passengers. Nobody aboard was an experienced, seasoned mariner. They decided to restart the engines, without checking the engine room or determining the cause of the change. Everything appeared normal and they continued on their holiday excursion. A short time later the cabin was filled with smoke and the voyage was aborted as the operator and passengers were rescued and the vessel was attended by the fire department and towed to a boat yard.
The inspection revealed that there was a fire in the engine room. The fire was initiated by the failure of an exhaust hose. The exhaust hose failed due to cooling water blockage in the engines exhaust mixing elbow. The blockage in the mixing elbow was caused by corrosion and is a common failure mode.
The good news was the passengers were rescued and uninjured. The fixed fire extinguisher in the engine room functioned properly and the vessel was not a total loss. The bad news was the claim was denied and preventable. Had the operator checked the engine after the first indication of a problem, he would have likely been alerted to the impending failure of the exhaust system and could have discontinued using the vessel until proper repairs were made.
Fire damage claims do not always arise due to causes that are aboard the insured vessel. Fire claims are a common third party claim. Third party claims are when a claim is made for damage to your property, against an insurance policy for something other than your boat, like another boat, boat yard or marina or when others make a claim on your policy for damage to their property. Just because a fire starts on another vessel and damages your boat, don’t assume that the other boat’s insurance policy will pay for the damage to your vessel. If the cause of the fire is deemed to be negligence on the part of the boat owner, coverage may be extended. However, if the cause is not deemed to be negligence you may have to rely on your own policy to cover the expense for repairing the damage to your vessel. For instance, a fire caused by a cigarette butt thrown onto your neighbor’s vessel is not due to the neighbor’s negligence. Many times, the exact cause of the fire is never definitively determined. This is another reason to assure that your vessel has property damage coverage to protect your investment and your asset. Fires also illustrate the benefits of liability coverage.
The liability portion of your policy covers you from financial exposures which arise due to the ownership, maintenance or operation of your vessel. Most boat owners consider liability protection as defense against law suits such as personal injury claims or damages resulting from collisions from other vessels or structures. These are the normal uses, occasions arise where even the circumstances of these somewhat anticipated situations are surprising and the liability portion of your policy provides additional protection which you may not have considered. A somewhat unique circumstance arose during a sea trial of a vessel which was pending sale. Engine control failure resulted in the vessel colliding with a private dock during the sea trial, with the potential owner aboard. The vessel’s owner was not aboard, but his insurance policy remained in effect. The insurance policy took care of the expense of repairing the private dock and the skilled broker salvaged the transaction, leaving all parties satisfied. This example illustrates why the policy should remain in effect until the ownership is fully and completely transferred and illustrates the benefits of the liability portion of the policy resulting from an unexpected incident.
It is unlikely that any other policy, including your homeowner’s policy, will provide coverage from liability arising from ownership of a vessel. Most homeowner’s policies specifically exclude liability arising from ownership or operation of a watercraft.
If your vessel was to suffer the unfortunate circumstance of a submersion or a partial submersion, the liability portion of your boat insurance policy is where coverage can be found for salvage. Salvers maintain expensive equipment and have highly specialized skills and experience. If their skill and equipment is used to raise your vessel, you will learn how expensive their expertise can be. The salvage expense will likely be borne by your boat insurance carrier. Vessel towing policies generally exclude even simple de-watering operations and virtually never include coverage for salvage operations of any kind.
Many marinas require liability insurance and may require being named as an additional insured on your policy. This requirement may be enforced at your home marina or at a guest dock while cruising. Some policies provide coverage for costs to mitigate pollution, including fuel spills and may even pay the fines which accompany the spill. These are additional benefits from maintaining suitable insurance on your boat.
By far, the best insurance is a knowledgeable boat owner, an active maintenance schedule and an operator who pays attention to subtle clues that the boat gives. As the above examples illustrate, accidents do happen. Insure the vessel, protect the value of the asset and insulate your personal wealth with a suitable boat insurance policy.
* The striking of one ship by another (The Random House Dictionary of the English Language – the unabridged edition)
In addition to maintaining adequate boat insurance, some losses involving a vessel may be covered by other policies. Homeowner’s insurance often covers loss of personal property and is not limited to the loss of that property from the insured residence. For instance, a watch stolen or lost while boating may be covered by a homeowner’s policy. Some types of boating losses will be specifically excluded by many homeowners’ policies, primarily losses involving the boat itself or liability arising from boat ownership. Those who carry umbrella policies should confirm with their agent that their boat insurance policy and limits are appropriate so that the umbrella policy’s coverage will be seamless.
If the second largest purchase you ever decide to make floats… keep reading. Large yacht owners (and an increasing number of small boat owners) know an investment in a marine survey is worth while. Hire a marine surveyor to inspect the vessel prior to purchase but don’t simply “go through the motions”. Hire a good marine surveyor.
If you trust your broker then trust your broker’s selection of a marine surveyor. You are risking a lot more based on your choice of brokers than you are on your choice of marine surveyors. But, don’t trust the broker blindly, ask questions about your options, educate yourself, it is your decision. Ask the broker if they feel the surveyor is the best surveyor available, one that will represent your interests exclusively and rigorously. If the broker has a list of marine surveyors, ask if any surveyors have been excluded because they are too “picky”, too “tough” or “are deal killers”. Ask the broker who they would use if they were buying a vessel for themselves.
Comparing surveyors is a simple task. Narrow your list of potential surveyors based on your initial research, and simply request sample survey reports of vessels similar to the one you wish to purchase. Briefing these reports should take no time at all and you will have a good idea which surveyor fits you best, performs the job you require and which surveyor you feel is good.
You should raise any specific concerns you have about the boat or the survey process with the marine surveyor. Mention any problems you have noticed, any deficiencies you have heard about and discuss any specific inspection techniques that you hope to be accomplished. Ask the surveyor about the extent of the operation of the systems they will perform during the inspection process. Many surveyors operate very little equipment; their sample surveys should reveal these details.
Don’t hire a surveyor by price. Price is not likely to vary by any significant amount and the price of the survey is insignificant compared to the cost of the vessel and the potential cost of not hiring a good marine surveyor.
Assure that the marine surveyor’s report will be accepted by the lending institution, insurance company and marina of your choice. This step can be tricky because you may not have made your choice(s) at the time of purchase. An easy vetting process for this purpose is to choose a surveyor who is a member of a recognized surveyor’s association. The Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors (SAMS) and the National Association of Marine Surveyors (NAMS) are well established and recognized by most financial and insurance institutions. Also make sure the surveyor has sufficient length of time in the trade and is experienced with the type of vessel you’re buying.
Don’t skip the survey because you are buying a vessel “as-is”. It is better to know what you are buying than to be surprised. A recent client buying a vessel with no possibility of survey allowances; was happy to learn of two significant survey findings. A bobstay fitting exhibited significant corrosion and a through hull valve was not properly functional. The bobstay fitting was easily removed, cleaned, inspected and reinstalled. A new snubber connection was attached, it was reinstalled with little expense and effort. The through hull valve was subsequently determined to be corroded. The repairer easily broke the valve stem, necessitating the replacement of the valve. The client decided to replace the through hull in conjunction with the valve and thus took the utmost advantage of the haul for survey. Although there was no survey allowance from the seller, the buyer still realized the benefit of a good marine survey.
Don’t accept an old survey done for another client. Get the benefit of the survey process along with the survey. Learn the boat with the surveyor, if you hire a good surveyor, the education during the survey will be invaluable. If you use an old survey, you have no idea of the events of the day and the money and time saved may be the worst investment you ever didn’t make. The report also may not be useful for the finance, insurance or marina requirements.
Brokers desiring long term relationships with boat owners should limit their referral list to good marine surveyors. The true condition of the vessel should be determined and any issues resolved at the time of purchase. This results in a satisfied customer, who feels they were treated fairly and this feeling builds a relationship which is sure to continue. Discard the clutter of negative reputations and you may discover that the “deal killer” is actually a good deal maker. Referring “sub-standard” marine surveyors often comes back to bite brokers. Don’t refer a surveyor that you wouldn’t want surveying your own boat; ethically there should be no difference between a good surveyor when you’re “buying” and a good surveyor when you’re “selling”.
A boat inspector. The most common type of job we do is similar to a home inspector and appraiser combined into one for a boat or a yacht.
What does Christian & Company do?
We basically have two products.
1) We perform “condition and valuation” marine inspections on boats and yachts. These inspections are performed in order to determine “what shape she is in” and “what she is worth”. We inspect the boat, we test virtually every system and component and we encourage sea trials as well. We usually have the boats hauled to allow an inspection of the bottom.
2) We handle insurance claims in San Diego for insurance companies. These insurance inspections determine the cause of loss, identify the scope of damage and review costs.
We also do various special projects, new build monitoring, consultation and litigation support work.
When is a marine surveyor needed?
Our professional boat surveyors in San Diego are typically employed when a boat is purchased (by the buyer), when a boat is refinanced and when an insurance policy is up for renewal. Marine inspections and surveys are also the basis for valuation of a boat as an asset for a multitude of reasons – probate, divorce, etc…
How do you choose a marine surveyor?
Our web site has an article on this, but in short: shop! Ask around, talk with the boat yards, boat brokers, insurance and finance companies and see who is recommended. Boat surveyors in San Diego and around Southern California usually develop a reputation. Often surveyors are known in the industry as a “buyers” surveyor, we suggest the buyer hire a surveyor with a reputation for being thorough and ethical. The client should also make sure the boat surveyor has performed marine inspections and insurance surveys that have been recognized by the insurance and financial institutions being used, as applicable.
What are marine surveyors qualifications?
Qualifications are very diverse among marine surveyors. There is very little organized, formal training. There are no licenses for marine surveyors in most states. All one really needs is a business card. There is no governmental regulation of the industry. There is a school in Florida that runs a six week program. Over the years most boat surveyors in San Diego have learned the business as a trade, from another marine surveyor, more or less as an apprentice. Many banks and insurance companies look for membership in one of two organizations SAMS and NAMS. Members of these organizations need five years surveying experience performing insurance surveys and marine inspections, and must take a test to become accredited members. I have been a member of SAMS since about 1993 and was the Pacific Regional Director for several years.
What type of training and education do marine surveyors have?
Again it is diverse. We require continuing education as part of the membership and a lot of my education has come from symposiums hosted by SAMS. There are many other organizations that provide excellent educational opportunities. They include ABYC, a organization that has developed a set of voluntary standards for boat construction and IBEX, a boating industry educational symposium held once a year.
What are the different types of marine surveyors and surveys?
There are marine surveyors that do what we do, boats and yachts – basically recreational craft. There are marine surveyors that specialize in ships, including the inspection of the ship and cargo inspections. There are also commercial craft boat surveyors in San Diego and around California working on tugs and barges, commercial fishing vessels and special purpose craft, ie. dredges, etc…
What are the criteria for banks and insurance companies?
Membership in either SAMS and NAMS is the most common requirement. Some companies have their own list of accepted boat surveyors. Often companies in San Diego take marine inspections and insurance surveys from anyone if it is complete and the surveyor submits a resume and references. SAMS has produced a “minimum surveyor content list”. It is a good yardstick to measure surveys by.
What types of marine surveys are available?
There are different levels of marine surveys, some are more extensive and some are less. Our San Diego boat inspectors offer a few different types of marine surveys, designed for the needs of the client. Our pre-purchase inspections are very thorough, due to the buying decision that is partially based on the results. We offer a less expensive survey for other purposes, primarily designed for the boat owner who is required to get a survey, but don’t necessarily want one, (for example for insurance renewal or refinancing). For these we offer a discount, but still perform a fairly thorough inspection.
The niche trade of marine surveying has many specialty niches within it. There are marine surveyors who specialize in yachts and small craft, the specialty mostly familiar to the reader of our articles. There are ship surveyors, cargo surveyors, commercial fishing vessel surveyors, tug and barge surveyors and specialty surveyors within these niches. Yacht and small craft surveyors primarily perform two types of surveys, condition and valuation surveys and damage surveys.
Boat owners most commonly require the services of a marine surveyor when they are buying a boat or trying to obtain or renew insurance for their boat. Marine surveyors are the appraisers in the boating industry, and as such are often required for loans, estate issues, divorces and a myriad of other situations where a vessel’s value is required. A growing number of marinas are requiring marine surveys before allowing boats in, as evidenced by the regular calls we receive from boat owners looking to change marinas in the past few years.
So how should you choose a marine surveyor when you need one? Start by understanding what type of survey report you need, its potential uses and make a short list of surveyors able to give you what you need. Remember if you are buying a boat, the survey report may be required by a lender, insurance company and marina. So in addition to finding a marine surveyor who is able to professionally assess the condition of the boat, make sure the survey report will be accepted by the other institutions that may request a copy.
If you don’t have a relationship with a marine surveyor and are trying to develop that short list, consult with your broker (usually they give a list so as not to create any conflict or liability), ask your lender, your insurance agent, the boat yard, the marine manager or your boating neighbors. There are two recognized marine surveying organizations, S.A.M.S., the Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors and N.A.M.S., the National Association of Marine Surveyors. Both maintain online rosters. Other marine surveyors are also great referral sources, your first choice is unavailable, ask them for a referral. Marine surveyors quickly develop a reputations (buyer’s surveyor or broker’s surveyor for instance), and most of the industry professionals are aware of the reputations. If you want a thorough surveyor, ask your broker about their list and if any surveyors are “too thorough” for their list. If you can trust your broker with all aspects of buying a boat, certainly they can be trusted with guidance regarding your choice of a marine surveyor.
After you have a short list, make a few calls; see which surveyor fits your personality. Ask them about their experience, what they do and don’t do and if they will allow or prefer you to attend. The pre-purchase marine surveying event is an excellent opportunity to share knowledge with clients and a great time for the buyer to begin to learn the vessel and its systems. For the truly diligent shopper, review survey reports. The written reports are an excellent way to compare marine surveyors and many surveyors will have sample reports online for easy access. If you need a survey, for insurance or a marina, then use price as another criteria; prices usually don’t vary much and should not be a criteria for choosing a surveyor you want to check out a boat for purchase (penny wise and pound foolish).
If you have a special need, a damaged boat or a unique boat, be sure to explain what you need and ask about the surveyor’s experience with it. Ethically a marine surveyor should decline any job that they are not qualified for, but “the buyer should also beware”.
Once you have chosen the marine surveyor, how can you get the most for your money? If you are buying a boat, we suggest you attend the inspection, spend as much time as you can with the surveyor, be interactive, ask questions and learn. Make sure that everything you care about is tested, try the windlass, all the refrigeration devices, the generator, electronics and through hull valves. Learn how to test that automatic bilge pump and after you buy it, test it occasionally. During the sea trial, take the helm, try the engine controls, auto pilot and change the pre-sets on the multi function electronic display. And then, ponder the water maker…
There are limitations during surveys. The surveyor should discuss the important ones during the survey so you can decide if you need something further. If you want to test everything, including the water maker, make the request before the survey and allow the broker or seller to arrange for anything required. Water makers are often “pickled” (preserved for longer periods of disuse), running them may require special knowledge and the seller may request they be returned to their pre-test state. Most other systems can be tested without prior planning, but you have to take a sea trial to test an autopilot and a surprising few sailors test the spinnaker gear or open all sails.
There are many important parts of a vessel that are difficult or impossible to fully assess. These include the condition of the fuel and integrity of tanks, condition of coring material, battery condition, proper function of tank level gauges, engine instruments, electronics and entertainment devices. Most of these can be assessed to a point but not completely. Many buyers do their homework before a survey, research known weaknesses on boat owner’s group web sites, discuss these issues and the surveyor may bring along a moisture meter, special scope, or other diagnostic tool that may help answer the important questions and reduce your risk. Additional inspections are occasionally necessary, the most common are mechanical surveys on engines, transmissions and generators, and rigging surveys on sailing systems.
After the survey is completed, we feel a thorough “de-brief” is crucial. It is much easier to understand what the survey is reporting if you can see, test, hear, or smell the problem first hand. Some items are removed from the list by including the seller or broker or calling the seller during the “de-brief”. The seller can tell you about the unlabeled circuit breaker that energizes the new chart plotter or the hidden circuit breaker for the windlass.
If you have a damaged boat, the insurance company will often hire a marine surveyor to assist them. In this capacity the insurance company’s surveyor will report on the cause of loss, scope of damage, and cost of repair. The marine surveyor will likely be fair, professional and ethical. There are times when the boat owner should hire their own surveyor. We suggest active communication and involvement during the decision-making portions of damage claims, don’t hesitate to hire your own surveyor should you feel the need, the cost of the surveyor is most often negligible relative to the cost of the repair.
The active boat owner, buyer, and seller will occasionally have other special needs. Marine surveyors are able to assist with project management for new builds or refits. Marine surveyors are used as experts in many types of litigation, including values, repair disputes, salvage issues, and transactional hiccups. We often receive calls from clients to discuss our opinions on normal boating decisions, such as cruising equipment and obscure but common issues, like waste odor. We often are asked for recommendations for service providers, captains, canvas companies, and an unlimited number of other specialties. A marine surveyor often has a wide and unbiased view point that is well suited for this type of assistance. We always welcome these inquiries; good will is integral to good service and we just might need a referral from you tomorrow.
This post was edited on February 24, 2016 at 11:20 AM.
