Most Southern California boaters, with the exception of a few alpine lake stored boats, don’t have to worry about snow accumulation or the water freezing around the boat. We have our own set of challenges brought upon by lower temperatures, rain and infrequent visits. We addressed shore power cords in our last article, here we address other issues.
As the temperature drops, heaters come out of the lockers. We find portable electric heaters on virtually every boat we inspect. Some heaters are better suited for use aboard a vessel. Some heaters will cut their power if they tip over, some have a wide base and are less likely to tip over, but few are designed to be left unattended aboard a boat. Above is a melted circuit breaker for a built in cabin heater.
Bring aboard only the most suitable type of heater, remember the boat may be used by somebody less familiar with boats than you are. Gas heaters, wood stoves and other improvised heating devices have also been known to cause problems.
The use of heaters and decorative lights increases the amperage in the AC electrical system and this increase can cause problems to develop or become apparent.
During a recent pre-purchase survey of a 50 meter power vessel, one of the crew was surprised to learn that several of the air conditioners also functioned as heaters. The older vessel had a combination of heat pump style units and household type units which only functioned in the cool mode. They were surprised to learn that the heat pump units functioned in both the heat and cool modes. This type of heater is much safer than a portable heater.
Boat fact: reverse cycle / heat pump type air conditioning units’ function is most effectively tested in the heat mode in Southern California. Heat is distinct versus blown air which can feel cool.
Winter is our rainy season, in addition to checking deck drains, hatch drains and the associated hoses and valves, this is a good time to check bilge pumps. If you don’t know how to check the automatic function of your bilge pump, learn. You-tube has everything. Know that your automatic bilge pump will only work as long as its battery is charged.
De-humidifiers are usually much safer than space heaters. Many boat air conditioners have a de-humidifier function as well. While de-humidifiers can prevent mould and mildew, we suggest inspecting the boat after the first rain for any leaks. Your boat will eventually leak, the quicker the leak is found and fixed the better chance you have to reduce resulting damage. Leaks onto electrical components can lead to problems. A common finding is water accumulated in dome lights. It is not uncommon to find water leaking on to or near electrical distribution panels, as they are often outboard near the hull to deck joint and below deck hardware.
Finally, if you are going to keep frozen food aboard, especially seafood or bait, be aware of potential problems from a loss of shore power. Standard galley refrigerators can leak and significant damage has occurred when frozen fish thaw. Consider a deep freezer for your fish or bait, their design will capture this disgusting soup and limit the damage.
Author: marineadmin
Mechanical Insurance Claims
As a marine surveyor assisting insurance companies with claims our primary duties are to determine cause of loss, scope of damage and review repair costs. The type of boat claims most surveyors receive are varied, from submersion damage to lightning strikes to mechanical failures. No one is an expert in all experts, we all cannot be electrical and mechanical engineers, metallurgists, experts in rules of the road, lamination experts or coatings experts. We simply need be proficient and know our limits.
The types of engines and drive systems that experience failures are varied and a good example of modern marine surveying. Further, different insurance carriers require different levels of cause or determination. Some carriers merely need to know if the cause was mechanical (from within the engine) or external, plastic bag, submerged object, bad fuel etc…).
A recent claim for a failed diesel engine began with the discovery of plastic components in a sea strainer. A tear down of the engine revealed a single cylinder failure, not caused by the plastic. Interestingly the insured thought the claim may not be covered if it wasn’t caused by the plastic but this mechanical failure was not excluded by the policy. Some insurance companies require much more specific cause or determination. This can be to allow proper cover decisions or to preserve subrogation rights. In another recent claim an inboard diesel engine had been rebuilt and had been rebuilt approximately one month prior to the loss. The warranty was for six months. Our inspection resulted in the determination of a mechanical failure from a component within the engine, however this carrier required a more specific determination. Again, the mechanical nature of the failure was a key factor.
There is no shame in not being able to more specific in a cause or determination such as this. In this case a forensic engineer was hired to attempt find “the smoking gun”. In modern insurance claims it is important to remember the basics, develop the history, any recent repairs and the precise event details from the operator. Be sure to separate opinions developed after the loss from consultations with varies from the facts of the actual events. Be aware that our failure analysis skills often evolve past those of the trained mechanic, as their job is not the same as ours. A skilled and ethical mechanic is one of our best tools cross checking opinions with other mechanics is also an option. With modern machines don’t forget the computers. Recording error messages and understanding their significance can be vital. In a recent failure claim we were provided “compression readings” as proof of the condition of an engine prior to loss. Further analysis revealed that these “compression” test results were a computer analysis versus an actual pressure gauge inserted in the injector tube. So obtain the error codes but also understand their significance.
POKEMON Stop – Stop
“Pokemon, STOP!” is the plea from a San Diego marina. A Pokemon stop is where players of this augmented reality game go to collect Pokemon. As a parent of 16, 18 and 20 year olds, I became aware of the game several months ago, but have not played the game. I have observed the capture of a Pokemon in my living room.
I did little research for this article and like boaters scoffing at the depictions of boating in movies and television shows, Pokemon players can poke fun and poke holes at the facts in this article. Who cares, warning to techies, this is not Mr. Robot.
While driving to a boat in Coronado I noticed a gathering of mostly young people in the grassy median on Orange Avenue. My son / apprentice informed me that this was an intersection of Pokemon stops; the gang of players was oblivious to the passing cars.
When I first noted the sign (above) at the marina I thought they were joking and were actually hosting a Pokemon event. How wrong I was. Turns out the players were a major nuisance.
The Pokemon stop that quickly caused overcrowding issues at the marina is apparently the result of an adjacent park. Niantic Inc. designed this game to be played while walking and thus many of the stops (and gyms) are located at public parks. Most agree this is a positive part of Pokemon Go. Young people actually leaving their dark computer dens and getting outside.
However, sometimes all the players see while outside, are the Pokemon. Just before sunset, at a beachside bluff, two young people arrived, quickly caught their Pokemon and departed just before the sun made a magnificent departure. The youngsters had succeeded in getting out of their digital den, but missed a colorful exhibition of nature and a chance at a green flash.
There are stories of Pokemon players walking off cliffs, perhaps a Darwinian thinning of the herd. Players should be conscious of the inconveniences and impositions caused by their play. They should not trespass, block gates and sidewalks or be unaware of other problems they cause as individuals or groups.
And boaters should be happy these young people are outside, walking around and socializing. Perhaps we should take a cue from the Pokemon Go players and leave the house, go to our boats, untie the lines and enjoy the great outdoors. In the words of a famous Southern Californian, “Why can’t we all just get along?” Pokemon Go is a fad which is already fading. The troubles at the marina have abated; the players and boaters are learning to co-exist.
Puerto Salina
Located at kilometer marked 73 (km 73) is the only port between the U.S. Border and Ensenada, Mexico. But don’t plan on using this as a port of refuge unless you are driving a personal water craft.
The marina was built approximately fifteen years ago. Problems with the silting of the channel, intermittent dredging and modification of the jetty were mentioned during a handful of marine surveying jobs we performed there in its early years.
In the last several years I have seen a sandbar across the marina entrance and I stopped and spoke with general manager in July 2016. Mr. Paul Hernandez, the general manager of Marina Puerto Salina, stated that the current shallow water channel problem has existed for four years. He stated that the water depth reaches 3’ on low tide and entry and exit from the marina is still possible at high tide. He stated that the owner of the marina is currently focused on a project in Cabo San Lucas and thus the marina has been neglected and the condominiums remain unfinished.
Researching the marina I noticed an article in The Log from May 2013, discussing the shallow water entrance.
During my visit I spoke with an unknown individual aboard a vessel named “Warlock”. He stated that the vessel has been in the marina for nine years and stuck for the last six. His vessel is a 60’ power boat which like draws 5’.
There are thirty to forty boats in the Marina and we have noticed very little activity. On a July 13, 2016 visit there were a few locals at a convenience store there was no activity on a launch ramp or in the marina except for the gentleman aboard “Warlock” varnishing a cap rail.
On August 28, we did notice a jet ski operating in the marina channel. I have recently been told that there are tax benefits in Mexico realized for unfinished properties. I was told that sometimes properties are left partially unfinished, i.e. rebar exposed from raw cinder blocks, because the tax benefit is eliminated once the property is finished.
While I have no idea if this tax benefit has any bearing on the state of Puerto Salina, it is clear that the condominiums remain unfinished and the harbor entrance is un-dredged and too hazardous to provide a port of refuge or planned stopping point between San Diego and Ensenada.
Other bits of Baja California Norte News: I surveyed a boat at Puerto Salsa, just north of Ensenada in the last few months. As an active marine surveyor in this area since 1993, it is rare that I visit an established boat yard for the first time. This commercial port hauled a 120’ passenger vessel that had its engines and generators replaced during the haul out.
Boat Superstitions (part 1)
The most well known superstition of course is the re-naming of the boat. The origins are apparently Greek (Poseidon), continuing through the Romans (Neptune) and at least peripherally influencing the Norse (Ran, Aegir, Njord, Odin and Hagar). Boaters, fisherman, sailors, etc.… are superstitious folk.
The “bad luck” is brought upon by the God of the Sea who maintains a ledger of all boat names. Thus the first component to disable the bad luck of a new boat name is the de-naming ceremony. This ceremony causes the God to forget the name and of course requires alcohol.
All of these ceremonies require quality champagne or wine. To properly de-name the vessel, first pour a portion of the beverage into the ocean as an offering to the God and then pour some into your mouth(s). The alcohol helps the God forget.
Next gather all items emblazoned with the previous name, burn them and scatter the ashes into the sea. “White out” the “Previous Vessel Names” on your Coast Guard documentation, as you might need it later; otherwise make sure all vestiges of the old name are completely eliminated.
The re-naming ceremony begins with appeasing the Gods with more liquor and a request that they accept the new name. Following this second offering to the Gods, a glass of the quality champagne or wine is enjoyed by the captain and the first mate, in the name of good luck. Don’t bring aboard anything with the new name until the first ceremony is complete, or you’ll have to do a lot more drinking to do.
The last required ceremony is the appeasement of the four winds. This ceremony includes (yep, you saw it coming) pouring four equal amounts of the chosen beverage and tossing them in each of the primary compass directions. The remainder of the beverage is to be consumed by those involved in the ceremonies.
During my training I was taught that nudity was involved in this ceremony, however, I found no such reference in my exhaustive validation research. I did come across a reference to naked women. It is bad luck to have women aboard, because they distract sailors from their duties, but naked women are good luck because they calm the seas. Thus topless figurines of women adorn the bows of so many sailing ships.
The takeaway is that quality champagne or wine help solve boating problems. If you and/or your first mate are recovering from alcoholism, we support you. Please contact us and someone from our office will be happy to perform the ceremonies on your behalf.
p.s. we like women on our boats, with or without clothes
Boat Superstitions (Part 2)
This is the second part of a two part article. The first part dealt with renaming a boat and the necessary ceremony to avoid bad luck. One recovering reader responded, “like most of us I’ve come to accept the glorification of alcohol and drunkenness in society” and “we have found that we can have just as much fun, laughter, and happiness with diet coke and sparkling cider”. Alcoholism is a serious problem. My father had 35+ years sobriety from alcohol. Thus, let it be known the renaming ceremony will be just as effective with non-alcoholic beverages.
Since one objective of the ceremony is to make the God of the Sea forget your boat’s prior name, consider tossing (soon to be legal) marijuana in the water instead (unless you’re addicted to weed).
Now on to the lesser superstitions.
Bringing bananas aboard a vessel has been thought to bring bad luck since the 1700s. There are gross tons of theories as to why. One suggests that bananas spoil quickly and thus ships had to rush to their destinations, eliminating the opportunity for the crew to fish. Spiders, termites and methane gas are among the explanations for this obviously poor choice of sea food, as if we need any logical bases. This is most commonly adhered to now by fisherman.
Sharks following the vessel, whistling onboard and redheads (gingers) are bad luck. The shark is a sure sign of death. Don’t whistle aboard, you may whistle up a storm. Redheads are bad luck as they are just unfortunate to be a statistical minority. If brown hair had been bad luck we would have a history of bald sailors. Albatrosses are thought to be good luck if one is spotted, bad luck if one is killed. A “Jonah” is a person or crew member who brings bad luck. Dolphins swimming alongside are a positive omen, this one I can personally attest to as they always make me happy.
From the pirates comes a full booty of superstitions. Gold hoop earrings bring good fortune, gold provides healing powers and prevents drowning (unless you have too much). Tattoos have many magical powers. A North Star tattoo can help guide you home. Ducks or pigs tattooed on your feet will help you reach land if you fall overboard. Cutting hair or nails or shaving beards brings bad luck, baseball players share this one. Clearly there is crossover between land and sea superstitions.
There are many bad days to set sail, December 31, the first Monday in April, the second Monday in August, Thursdays and most commonly Fridays. I did a job for a commercial customer recently who will not begin a voyage on Friday and his business is doing well.
Red sky at night a sailor’s delight, red sky in the morning sailors take warning. Brief research suggests this has scientific validity and is alluded to in the Bible (Matthew 16:2-3).
Historically sailing was (and is) a dangerous occupation and superstitions helped sailors deal with the unknown. Today we have weather satellites, hair dye, man overboard drills, steel ships and refrigeration. Thank God (of the sea) for steel ships and refrigeration as Dole brings ship loads of bananas to the 10th avenue Marine Terminal in San Diego regularly; imagine the load of bad luck we might otherwise have suffered?
Comparing Boats on different Coasts
I began my career as a marine surveyor working for a Ft. Lauderdale, Florida based marine surveying company in 1990. I was born in San Diego to a U.S. Navy family but “grew up” as an active boater in Florida. I moved back to California in 1993 and have lived in San Diego since.
Returning to California as a marine surveyor I noted the difference in the value of boats from coast to coast. I just returned from a trip to Florida where I surveyed a Cabo 35 for a repeat client. I was there for a family wedding and used the job as a therapeutic break and a write off. The job reminded me of the difference between boats on different coasts.
The Coast Guard’s recreational boating statistics (2014) state California has 728,679 registered boats and Florida has 873,507 registered boats. The California number declined significantly from the prior year and the Florida number increased slightly. I found several interesting websites with statistics, links are at the end of this article.
Putting values on boats in the early 1990s included researching B.U.C., N.A.D.A. and A.B.O.S. value guides. The value guides suggested upward adjustments for boats in California.
I independently noticed that vessel values were higher in California, often significantly more than the cost of transporting the boats. My recent survey follows this higher value pattern.
Boats in Florida are exposed to much harsher atmospheric conditions, more sun, heat and often more usage. The very top of Florida is 31 degrees north latitude and Key West is south of 25 degrees north. San Diego is 32 degrees north, the southernmost point of California.
The weather affects the California boating season (May through September) much more than Florida. The air and water temperatures are much higher, the sun does more damage and boats are used more often in Florida. Florida has an intercoastal waterway, allowing usage of many boats when the sea conditions are unfavorable for boating.
I have always noticed a higher valuation for California boats compared to Florida boats, with the delta in values reduced during recession years. Florida brokers report that inventory of quality boats is low, just like California. Both states were affected by the recession and accompanying lack of boat production six to eight years ago.
The takeaway is that a boat’s value is difficult to determine based on year, make and model alone. As we all know, condition is a significant factor and statistically our local boats have a higher value because they are in better condition than boats in Florida. Unfortunately for my recent client, even a California bred boat can be affected by the Florida sun and he passed on the deal.
While researching for this article I found many interesting statistical websites, including the number of registered boats, boats per capita, value of the marine industry overall per state and casualty statistics. One statistic suggested that Arizona has the most registered boats per capita, due to their state requiring registration of all types of watercraft including those without power. I also found it interesting how many more power boats there are than sailboats, also possibly an anomaly affected by the requirement to register boats with power.
uscgboating.org/library/accident-statistics/Recreational-Boating-Statistics-2014.pdf
nmma.org/assets/cabinets/Cabinet222/Florida_2015%20Infographics.pdf
nmma.org/assets/cabinets/Cabinet219/California_2015%20Infographics.pdf
statista.com/statistics/184587/number-of-recreational-boats-in-the-us/
phoenix.about.com/od/lakes/l/blboats.htm
An Interesting trip to CUBA
My wife and I, two bilingual (Spanish) children and a non-Spanish speaking adult couple took a 10-day trip to Cuba in April 2016. I thought boaters would be interested due to their sense of adventure, travel inclination, island lore and some boating trivia and activities.
We arranged our trip ourselves, but encourage the use of Canadian travel agents. We flew out of Tijuana through Mexico City to Havana. In Mexico City we wrote our own official permission slip. The U.S. still allows visits for one of twelve purposes. We traveled under education / people to people, and will keep our itinerary for five years in case the State Department asks for it.
We visited Havana, Varadero and Vinales. The other couple visited Guardalavaca. They flew Cubana Avacion to Holguin, including a flight on a Russian built jet. This is in the area of Guantanamo Bay. Besides a 7-hour delay, their flight was normal.
We stayed mostly in houses or rooms rented through Air BNB (Casa Particulares). We found the Cuban people to be extremely friendly. There has a slight rise in petty theft recently, but we felt very safe. The Cuban’s were willing to speak openly about all subjects, including politics. Chinese we encountered in a previous trip to China were reluctant to speak so openly, though we speak much more Spanish than Mandarin and the language barrier was certainly a factor.
Interestingly no Cuban that we met had ever been off the island. An average to high-end job pays $25 a month. It’s hard to pay for a trip off the island at that pay rate even if one could navigate through the complexities and time consuming paperwork. The average Cuban works to pay for the food.
The food was mostly poor. Prices were fairly standard, but only in the occasional private restaurants (Paladares) could we find good food and to find them you had to dig deeper than just asking the taxi cab driver or taking the advice of a restaurant hawker on the street. Most buildings are in a state of disrepair. And the cars are a mind-boggling time travel experience.
Cuba has three eras of cars, the American era of the 1950’s, the Russian era of the 1970’s and the current era of the Chinese cars and busses. Every imaginable American car from the 1950’s is operating on the streets of Cuba, some with original engines and many with German and Japanese diesel engines.
The beaches were nice as one would expect on a Caribbean Island. We swam in a fresh water fed cave. We boated in an underground river and we experienced spectacular views overlooking cigar tobacco farming valleys. We watched a farmer roll a cigar and we smoked plenty of them.
We took a Hobie Cat on a snorkeling excursion to a coral reef. On that day diving visibility was moderate, the reef was average but fish were plentiful. The guides were throwing bread into the water and laughing at the tourists’ reactions to the boil of fish around them. I couldn’t help myself and joined in, throwing more fish food about the unsuspecting tourists, contributing to the fish mischief. Our guide tickled a lobster out of a hole to bring home.
I visited a marina in Varadero. The marina was new but empty. A handful of private yachts were scattered in the outer portions of the marina and a dozen 100-foot Fountaine Pajot passenger carrying catamarans were in the front row. The government runs most of the tours. The rum, the cigars, the restaurants, hotels and rental cars are all predominately operated by the government and most prices on these commodities are fixed throughout the country.
The yate “Granma” holds a special place in Cuban history. Eighty two rebels embarked on a miserable 1,200 mile journey from Mexico to Cuba aboard the 43’ boat. The rebels included Fidel and Raul Castro, Ernesto “Che” Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos. The Batista government knew they were coming and tried to find and stop the “Granma” but it landed in Cuba, discharged its passengers and gained entrance into the Revolutionary Museum in Havana. A lot more impactful than the local smuggling pangas.
The private economy is beginning to develop but in this regard Cuba is far behind China.
There were only a few street hawkers. They generally were selling black market cigars, rum and promoting restaurants. I encountered nobody selling any drugs or prostitution, as is common in many countries. I was told prostitution is active, but it is illegal and not publicly promoted.
There are two currencies in Cuba, one is the national currency (Moneda Nacional or CUP) and the tourist currency (CUC). Tourists trade their money only for CUC and U.S. dollars are hit with a 10% exchange fee in addition to the normal money change fee of 3%. Bring Mexican Pesos or Canadian Dollars, they only get charged the 3% fee. Money changing is a government service and the rate is the same at the airport, banks or hotels. Use of American credit cards is very limited and also subject to a financial penalty.
The official U. S. Government position for bringing products back from Cuba is a $400 limit with only $100 of cigars or liquor. My buddy is enjoying his $100 box of Cohibas.
I decided that if I was Cuban, I would be a diving guide. I would get to boat, dive and interface with people regularly. I would get a little extra money from tips and eat lobster for dinner.
When Size Matters
“Hatteras’ specifications list the boat length as 50’ 3” and that is what I would like on my survey”. This was a recent request from a client who had just purchased a 2003 Hatteras 50 convertible. “And I would like to be referred to as Sir Kells, bring peace to the world and arouse women when I walk into the room”, I thought, though I responded “well let’s see if I can help”.
“I measured your boat and usually I am close. I measured 53’ 4”. I would be happy to measure it again”. I continued, “Boats are rarely the length that the manufacturer specifies or the broker lists”. Of this I am certain. But why? How are boats measured?
Per the 2009 version of the U.S. Coast Guard’s Simplified Measurement Tonnage Guide (uscg.mil/hq/msc/tonnage/docs/TG-1_Current.pdf), the overall length is the horizontal distance between the outboard side of the foremost part of the hull and the outboard side of the after most part of the hull. It does not include bow sprits, rudders, outboard motor mount brackets, swim platforms that do not contain buoyant volume and other similar fittings and attachments that are not part of the buoyant hull envelope.
We measure vessels length overall (LOA) and we do include swim platforms and bow sprits. This is the most useful length, as it is the length used by most marinas and yacht clubs. For our purposes we do not include the anchor hanging over the bow or the tender hanging on the transom, these can always be removed. While permanent fixtures such as swim platforms can be removed, it is not simple.
We rarely refer to length on the waterline (LWL) or length on deck (LOD) as these lengths are generally only useful when discussing designs and theoretic hull speed.
The Coast Guard defines overall breadth as “the horizontal distance taken at the widest part of the hull, excluding rub rails. This measurement is rarely disputed. Another important measurement of a boat’s width is the breadth at the waterline, as most boats are much wider at their rub rail (flair) than they are in the water and can thus fit into a slip which is not as wide as the boat.
The Coast Guard defines overall depth as the vertical distance at or near amidships from a line drawn horizontally through the uppermost edge of the skin (excluding the superstructure) to the bottom skin of the hull, excluding the keel. This length is not the vessel’s draft. Thus the depth on your Coast Guard documentation should not be confused with your vessel’s draft. We measure draft as the distance between the waterline of the vessel and the deepest submerged part of the vessel, be it keel, propellers or rudders. This is the minimum depth of water your boat needs to remain happy.
The Coast Guard allows simplified measurement for the calculation of tonnage. A discussion of the meaning of tonnage was addressed in a prior article and can be found on our website (https://themarinesurveyors.com/a-primer-on-displacement) it is not a measure of weight.
The boat’s length thus can vary, but it only varies based on the specific definition of the length that is sought. It is neither shorter when you are paying for a slip (or marine survey) nor longer after a couple scotches.
Do I trust my broker? Part two
A client who had a bad boat selling experience said, “The only power a boat seller has in the transaction is the right of refusal.” While ultimately true and though California law protects buyers more than sellers, there are ways to prevent many of the problems my client experienced.
He was unfamiliar with the process and made himself and the boat available to a potential buyer many times, got underway three times and then had an 11th hour offer reduction of one third of the agreed purchase price. The deal fell through and he came to me to discuss various survey findings and the apparent sales practice that he found distasteful.
For those unfamiliar with the boat buying process, it begins with an offer, then a counter, then an agreement with time constraints for marine survey and sea trial and then another time constraint to close the deal. Researching with the several local brokers, the average time from contract inception to survey and sea trial was 14 days and another 7 to 10 days to close. The contract includes purchase price, refundable deposit amount and other terms. Marine survey and sea trial are performed for the buyer to gain knowledge of the condition and value of the boat. After the survey and sea trial many boat deals are re-negotiated. The seller is not obligated to have repairs done or allow any concession in price, but they often do so if justified by the survey’s findings.
Our client’s problems were twofold; he gave more time and energy than most sellers during the sales process and then faced a significant reduction in the offer price after marine survey and sea trial. The reduction in the offer was based on findings during the survey and sea trial, per the buyer’s broker. Several of the findings, including blisters on the hull bottom were known to the seller prior to the survey.
To avoid last minute re-negotiations for known conditions, I suggest full disclosure in advance of survey and sea trial. I don’t recommend putting all the boat’s warts on the published listing, but I do suggest disclosing them prior to survey, especially things like blisters. Older boats come with blemishes and they are cheaper than new boats. Price the boat fairly, disclose the known deficiencies of significance and many of the psychologically challenging aspects of the sales process will be removed.
Some sellers make it clear that they will not reduce the price after survey, often because they feel the offer is less than the actual value of the boat. Some sellers offer a maximum survey allowance in advance. These tactics may prevent a low ball last minute offer reduction by an unscrupulous buyer by deterring them at the onset of the deal.
An English article on this tactic calls it “chipping” or “gazundering”. We can’t know if this tactic was consciously deployed in this instance or if the buyer just had a change of opinion of value, but the results for our client were the same, negative.
Find the article at http://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/mortgageshome/article-2400872/Chipping-new-gazundering–buyers-reneging-agreed-sale-price-And-plain-wrong.html
Do I trust my broker? Part one
Having been asked this question repeatedly at our booth in the recent San Diego boat show and many times over the years, I decided to publish my answer.
Since we are a marine survey company, a question we often field from prospective boat buyers is “Can I trust my broker’s recommendation for a marine surveyor?”
To use a baseball analogy, this is a “hanging curveball”. I’m at bat with bases loaded and no outs! Boat broker and marine surveyors are often at odds and I have suffered the blows of many brokers’ verbal bats.
Still my answer is, “If you trust your broker, you should trust their recommendation for marine surveyor, lender, insurance company, boat yard, mechanic, etc…, After all you trust their advice on the boat, right?”
I ask if the potential boat buyer is working with a broker that found the boat for them or if they found the boat and the broker came along, becoming their broker and the broker for the seller. This doesn’t disqualify the broker‘s referrals but the new relationship will not manifest the same trust as one developed over time with someone searching listings for you and taking you out for viewings.
I see no ethical dilemma in brokering both sides of the deal – it is common, and the broker either is or is not ethical. Of course having one broker versus two creates some ethical challenges and raises the possibility of an appearance of a conflict of interest. It must be tricky to advise the buyer on a proper offering price when the broker already knows the seller’s bottom line. A dedicated broker could logically be more aggressive in negotiating but the shared broker might have more influence.
If there is any question that the broker’s referral(s) are not in your best interest, don’t dismiss them, but also do your own research. The marine industry is a “small world”, ask marine industry professionals for referrals. We all know each other’s reputations. Network with marine surveyors, lenders, insurance agents, boat yard operators, mechanics and maritime attorneys.
Ask for several referrals instead of just one and compare the lists. Ask your boating neighbors and friends. Search the internet, but be careful to not be influenced by one fanatical supporter or detractor. “Due diligence” in this case does not take long and is simple.
On the other side of the coin, I just met with a repeat (marine survey) client of mine who had a bad sales experience as a boat seller, and realized many of our clients don’t go through the vessel selling process often.
In Part 2 of this article, I will share my experience on the boat selling transaction side, which I hope will be helpful.
Keeping Water on the Outside – Siphons
“Nothing good ever comes from water in the bilge.” Jim Merritt, marine surveyor and mentor.
All of the submersion claims we have ever handled have the same cause of loss… too much water on the inside. In order to maintain a boat without water inside we employ valves, loops and siphon breaks, but sometimes this simple concept is misunderstood. The systems that normally require these measures are engines, heads and bilge pumps.
To prevent siphoning we install siphon breaks, usually in the form of vented loops where the top of the vent is above the maximum healed waterline and the break is a way to allow air into the top of the loop.
Bilge pumps should discharge above the waterline, but those that do not require a siphon break. A vented loop is acceptable per A.B.Y.C. standards but a check valve is not. A check valve can only be used to prevent cycling of the pump, but configuring the pump and float to eliminate the cycling is smarter.
Heads mounted below the waterline require means to prevent flooding. If you leave the intake valve open and the head overflows, this is not siphoning, this is flooding (unless your through hull is higher than your head). In this case a simple loop, unvented, would have prevented the flooding as water seeks its level. A simple trick to know the waterline on the interior of your boat is to have a hose full of water contiguous to the sea, the water level in the hose is the water level in the sea.
Heads that discharge above the level of the top of the head do require vented loops and the vents only work if they allow air into the loop. Vents require maintenance, a clogged vent in a vented loop is just a loop and does not prevent siphoning.
Engines installed at or below the waterline require a loop in the exhaust discharge to minimize the possibility of inflow of raw water, whether the engine is running or not and a siphon break to prevent siphoning through the raw water pump when the engine is stopped. The water lift muffler is below the raw water intake through hull and in certain situations a solid column of water can form between them, eventually filling the muffler and engine with water. A functioning siphon break, usually between the engine and the muffler prevents the flooding. Over cranking this type of engine will also flood the engine with water. If the engine won’t start, shut the through hull while you remedy the problem but remember to open it when the problem is solved.
This is not meant as a “how to keep water out of the bilge” article nor does it address thalassophobia (fear of the sea). There is apparently no name for fear of water in the bilge, perhaps boataquaphobia.
Another Use For Vodka
This month’s article was inspired by Mr. Jim Montrella. Mr. Montrella owns a 2000 Formula 31 PC express cruiser in Dana Point Harbor named “H20 Man”. I met him when I handled an insurance claim for his insurance company and he called us a year later when he needed a condition and valuation survey on the same boat. He keeps the boat in good condition and during our recent inspection he mentioned that he uses vodka to purify his boat’s water system.
I have been around boats a little while and have been blessed with talking about boats with tens of thousands of people in the last three decades, but Jim was the first to mention this trick. I had always deferred to chorine bleach. I had been told early in my career, perhaps during marine surveying catastrophe duty after Hurricane Andrew (August 1992 – South Florida), bleach could be used to purify water and would not be injurious to humans when consumed.
Most of the research deals with survivalists and some was very technical. Did you know alcohols precipitate proteins and solubize lipids? (I’m betting two of you did.) I tried to get a feel for our specific interests, boat water tanks and it turns out many people use vodka for this purpose. Basically there was no consensus on the proper amount but the ethanol in vodka is effective against a wide spectrum of bacteria. The impurities remain in the water, so it is not a replacement for the much more expensive option of a water maker, but for the purpose of purifying the tank and system, it is effective.
Vodka is the most commonly used drinking alcohol because there are no additives in common vodka. I am thinking Popov level of vodka makes more economic since than Grey Goose and certainly don’t use flavored vodka. Make sure you don’t have any recovering alcoholics coming aboard, lest they unknowingly lose their sobriety.
I asked two doctors about this method of purification. One is an old friend and one I randomly met recently on a golf course. It was very interesting that they both gave the same answer to my query, why waste the vodka?
Based on the research, I feel vodka is an effective additive, and the benefits outweigh the draw backs. I certainly am more comfortable drinking vodka than I am drinking bleach. The smell of bleach is unpleasant and though I prefer tequila, I can certainly tolerate a bit of vodka, especially if it reduces the chance for unpleasantries like giardia.
By the way Mr. Montrella has recently begun chartering that smartly kept boat of his, so if you are interested in a boat ride up Dana Point way, send us an email and we will forward it to him. I can’t guaranty that he will have recently cleaned his water tank, but his boat will be in good condition.
Motor Mounts
As a marine surveyor, I occasionally encounter problems with motor mounts, and I wondered if there was a more analytic (and less subjective) way to determine their condition. I spoke with several experienced marine mechanics, a distributor and a manufacturer.
The vulcanized rubber in flexible or soft motor mounts provides sound and vibration dampening. It is this rubber that is most commonly damaged. Apparently, a visual inspection is the only way to determine the condition of the rubber in the mounts. One mechanic mentioned using a durometer, but he had never used one. Petroleum products, heat and age cause damage to the rubber. The metal is most commonly damaged by corrosion. Mounts also suffer damage from improper installation, under-sizing, hard shifting, groundings and hard landings (for those of you with boats that fly).
Separation of the rubber from the metal, sagging and distortion are the usual indications of damaged rubber. High performance boats and some older yachts use solid mounts, with no dampening rubber.
Occasionally we find broken motor mount studs; a much more definitive indication of a problem mount. Amazingly of all of the broken studs we have found, none of the operators were aware of a problem as the other three mounts supported the engine load. We commonly find the “jam nuts” not properly secured against the adjustment nut. If there are two nuts on one side of the engine’s mounting flange, they should be touching.
So the next time you are “messing about” we encourage you to inspect your boat’s motor mounts. Some may need a mirror and a flashlight. Inspect the rubber, the stud, the nuts and the bolts securing the mounts to the engine bearer. Damage claims involving catastrophic motor mount failures are few, but they usually include significant water intrusion about the propeller shaft seal and chaos. A brief check of mounts along with your normal pre-start check may prevent something much more catastrophic.
Replacement mounts and/or mount parts are available from engine manufacturers and sometimes only from the OEM$. The largest US based motor mount manufacturers are Barry Controls and Bushings, Inc. While there are no age specifications for motor mount life expectancy from the engine or motor mount manufacturers, the military specifications for many marine motor mounts is seven years.
The bad news, there is no objective inspection or test for motor mounts. The good news is if you keep the mounts clean and free of shock loads, they may outlast you.
Marine Distress Signals
There are numerous types of distress signals, they include pyrotechnic aerial/parachute and hand held, smoke signals, various types of lights, including man overboard strobes, lasers, radio signals, E.P.I.R.B., V.H.F. /radio signals, dye markers, U.S. and International flags, waving arms, sounding a continuous horn, firing a gun at one minute intervals and of course S.O.S. in Morse Code.
The most commonly thought of marine visual distress signal is the pyrotechnic flare.
In 1859 Martha Coston was granted a U.S. patent for a pyrotechnic night signal and code system. Today, recreational boaters in the U.S. are legally required to carry three day and three night distress signal flares. The flares must be labeled U.S.C.G. approved and must be current, they have 42 month service lives.
Pyrotechnic flares approved by the International Convention for Safety of Life at Sea (SOLAS) are much better than U.S.C.G. approved flares without a SOLAS designation. They shoot higher, last longer, have higher candela and cost much more.
Since most of us have never shot a parachute flare or ignited a hand held flare, smoke signal or dye marker, consider checking them out on YouTube.
Boaters can learn how and when to use the various types of distress signals. There are also many videos about laser flares or electronic visual detection signaling device (EVDSD). These devices are a no brainer in my opinion, not as a replacement for pyrotechnic flares, as they are not legal replacements, but as a supplement. They can be used for a much longer period of time and thus not necessarily only when another vessel or a plane is in sight. EVDSDs do not create as much pollution as pyrotechnic devices which are considered to be explosives and are hazardous material.
Never throw pyrotechnic flares overboard, in the trash or activate them in an area considered to be regulated water. In an interesting research experiment I contacted three local authorities and a large marine retailer and asked how to dispose of expired flares. Two provided the correct answer, but one provided the number for a local small retail company that is now defunct and the large retailer provided incorrect information, in fact the individual said the local fire department would not take the flares. In my area, Shelter Island, San Diego, fire station #22 (1055 Catalina Blvd.) will accept expired flares and most fire stations will do so.
Keeping older distress signal flares is common and a common recommendation on our survey reports. Most people just forget about them, but they are a legal requirement and expired flares do not meet the requirement. Many of us believe that expired flares will work and they may, however I once read an article in a non-commercial magazine (like Practical Sailor) that found the cheaper flares’ performance significantly decreased after their expiration date.
In my opinion, keeping a few extra flares (even if expired) is a good idea, but new SOLAS flares, an EVDSD and a few minutes of education on YouTube will increase our chance of both getting rescued and rescuing others in distress.
The Joys of Boating
“There is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.” is the only thing I have ever read by Scottish novelist Kenneth Grahame, but how profound. If you are reading this, perhaps you agree.
I recently inspected a 1960s era wooden power vessel being purchased by a young couple from a young couple. “Young”, by the way, is getting older every day. I find sharing experience and knowledge of boats deeply rewarding. Being allowed to assist in this particular transaction, interacting with these hopeful and energetic souls and experience their mutual joy was profoundly rewarding in a Kenneth Grahame way. I was filled with satisfaction and appreciation and smiled as I walked out of the wood boat yard, at the end of the row of boatyards, and carried my tools the short distance to my car.
Perhaps its maturity, but after 25 years of messing about in boats (as a marine surveyor), I love my job and am eternally grateful for opportunities like that one.
In the past few years I have been involved in two “refit projects” simultaneously. One is a San Diego built wooden 38’ sailboat and one is a Japanese built steel 45 meter motor vessel. The sailboat is being refit to be structurally sound and suitable as a live aboard, the motor vessel is being refit from a commercial boat to an expedition yacht. Hugely different projects but at their core they are the same.
The meetings with the owners concern things like the ability to accomplish passages safely, have accommodations that make the most of the available space, and toys that maximize the fun while aboard. I love brainstorming with the owners about their ideas, both conservative and wild, especially when we can make the wild ones come true. While the passages may be different, one to Catalina and one across the Pacific, the passion for adventure is the same. The accommodation considerations varied from a larger head with a real door to a choice between four or five guest cabins, they both involved give and take and some amount of marine prognostication. The tender choices ranged from either a rowing, sailing or combination dinghy for the sailboat to a choice between a diesel outdrive or a gasoline jet drive as the third tender for the expedition yacht; we all knew how much fun was going to be had on the little (relatively speaking) boats.
Working on boats, being on and in and near the water is a way of life and a calling. Perhaps some of us truly are “of water” and feel comforted by being close to and involved with it. Water is an essential element in many spiritual systems from Pagans to Native Americans to Taoism. It is said that water is the strongest element as it can flow around obstacles without changing its nature. And water seems to be one of the sources of harmony with boaters.
The completion of boating tasks, from choosing a boat’s name, to replacing a water pump impeller to larger varnish and paint project brings task completion satisfaction akin to home projects but with a bit more romance. The joy that accompanies the clanking of wine glasses after the brushes are clean or the mooring lines are set is somehow deepened by the sea.
Kells Christian is the principal marine surveyor of Christian & Company Marine Surveyors, Inc. Christian & Co. is a full service marine surveying firm specializing in yacht surveys, pre-purchase, condition and valuation, damage surveys, litigation support and consultation.
Boatyard Contracts
A contract is a binding agreement between two or more parties. Your boat insurance policy is a contract between you and your insurance company. The work order is a contract between you and the boat yard. The clauses in these two contracts contradict and confuse and if you have an accident in the yard, you might have trouble.
What can we do? Most of us need both the service of a boat yard and boat insurance.
I firmly support the right for a business to limit its liability with a contract. Every business has this right, to the extent allowed by law, and every customer has the choice of vendors. Some contracts present more challenges than others and this article is written only as an introduction to this conundrum.
Your boat insurance policy stipulates that you cannot modify the insurance company’s legal rights or increase their liability exposure but boat yard’s work order will likely do both.
The bad news, in a worst case scenario, signing the boat yard’s work order could void your boat insurance policy in the event of a claim while your boat is in the yard. The “good” news is that it is unlikely.
Know that these types of problems may arise when you take your boat to a boat yard yourself, or when the boat is brought to the boat yard by your boat broker, captain or friend.
There are straight forward ways to avoid these conflicts. Many boat yards will allow the removal of these exculpatory clauses, hold harmless agreements, waivers of subrogation, and liability limitations. They will not do so if you do not ask. There are also special insurance riders which can be purchased to cover the gap in coverage.
This is a “hot topic” among boat yards, marine insurance professionals and maritime attorneys. Ask your boat yard, boat insurance agent and/or favorite maritime attorney if you want more details and specifics, they will give you plenty of information.
How to Maintain a Boat and Prepare for a Marine Survey
This article was inspired by a speech at a local yacht club. I was asked to speak about the importance of maintaining adequate boat insurance and how to maintain a boat for a good marine survey report. This article addresses the second part of the request; a prior article was written regarding the importance of maintaining suitable boat insurance.
This article follows logically from the first article as the tips contained herein will improve the condition of the vessel and will be reflected on a survey report. This article is not intended to be a comprehensive boat maintenance guideline. It gives a few specific suggestions based on our decades of experience as marine surveyors. Specifically we have specialized in insurance claims assistance and condition and valuation inspections.
A myriad of books have been written regarding boat maintenance. Most boat owners have a reasonably good idea of what needs to be done to maintain their boats. Hiring experts for specific systems such as engines, transmissions and generators is always advisable if proper maintenance is beyond your skill set.
While preparing for the speech and the articles a common theme sprang to mind. Pay attention to the subtle changes. Note conditions which are different in any way, it is your boat giving you a clue of how to save money.
Many insurance claims result from several unfortunate circumstances or the alignment of several problems, not just one event. Submersions are perhaps the most obvious example.
Submersions often result from a gradual leak that develops into a more substantial leak. There are often contributing causes including bilge pumps or their automatic switches which fail, or low battery voltage. Determine the low spot on the vessel and check it upon your arrival. Any accumulation of water higher than the norm should be dealt with immediately. Determine the source of the water and eliminate the leak. Remove the water to allow detection of any future leaks. A most honored mentor has told me repeatedly “nothing good ever comes out of water in the bilge”.
Check the function of the bilge pump and specifically check the function of the automatic switch. If you don’t know how to check the switch, now is a good time to learn. Make these checks part of your monthly maintenance program. Consider secondary bilge pumps, float switches and alternative power sources for the secondary bilge pump. All offshore cruising vessels should have a high water alarm, they are relatively simple and inexpensive to install.
Most vessels sink in their slip. While many vessels spend most of their lives in the slip, the most common causes of submersions are not associated with heavy weather or rough seas operations. Check and maintain the propeller shaft seals, the rudder ports, the deck drains and the seawater systems. Many hoses last ten years, have you considered the age of your hoses? A bilge pump cycle counter is another tool which can be useful in preventing a submersion or partial submersion event. But like any other tool it is only effective if it is used properly and any increase in the number of cycles is dealt with in a timely manner.
Through hulls and through hull valves should be inspected annually and serviced or replaced as necessary. We recommend ball valves or sea cocks and discourage the use of gate valves. Valves should be functional. Maintenance should be performed as appropriate for the valve. Pink discoloration of bronze is an indication of corrosion and any suspect through hulls should be replaced during maintenance haul outs. I have broken countless valves and several through hull assemblies in the normal course of surveying, unfortunately the failures were not the result of any superior strength, just through hulls weakened by corrosion. Often weeps, stains or salt crystal accumulation can alert the boat owner to a failing through hull or a valve. A quick visual inspection is often sufficient to discover this type of problem. Be sure to access and inspect the transom, as there are often fittings below the waterline. Look for rust stains and weeping trails for your visual clues to problems.
An owner of a vessel that recently submerged mentioned that he had noticed a problem with the culprit through hull and had made a mental note to change it at the next scheduled haulout, the haulout was unfortunately scheduled to far in the future. These are components that give the boat owner plenty of warning prior to failure but teach a hard lesson if ignored.
Heavy weather in the winter of 2009 – 2010 in the Southern California area gave rise to numerous boat insurance claims. (See Heavy Weather Boat Maintenance, a previous article). Make sure the canvas is suitable for the job you give it. Service deck drains and hatch drains as necessary. Take a look at the dock lines, chocks and cleats. These components will give you clues if they need something. Water standing on a drain, chafed dock lines, bent cleats (on the boat or more commonly the dock) are all precursors to more significant problems.
There are many simple things a boat owner can do to prevent or minimize damage from fire. Inspect the shore power cord connection and the boat’s shore power inlet. Replace any connectors which exhibit heat damage. Assure the locking ring is in place, provide strain relief and replace worn components as a matter of maintenance.
Assure that any systems or components which are added to the electrical system are installed by a qualified marine electrician. Over current protection (fuses and circuit breakers) are designed to prevent catastrophic electrical failures. Assure all devices have proper over current protection. Additionally, main AC and DC circuit breakers, and readily available battery switches are critical. Many electrical fires are foreshadowed by the definitive smell of over heated wire insulation. Turn off main circuit breakers and shut off all battery switches at the first smell.
Fire protection equipment should be maintained annually. Both fixed and portable extinguishers should be maintained per N.F.P.A. recommendations. While legal requirements only dictate the number and type of extinguishers and that the extinguishers are “serviceable”, we suggest more attention be paid to these crucial pieces of safety equipment. We have been involved with many engine room fires which were extinguished by fixed units. Countless lives have been saved by these devices but they are rarely maintained properly. There are tricks (daylight savings time) used to remember when to replace the batteries in your smoke alarms, use the same memory trick to remember to check and service the safety systems on your boat.
Other safety devices which are commonly found lacking in the maintenance department include distress signal flares, re-boarding devices, life rafts, EPIRBs, MOB devices and life preservers. Our rule for safety equipment is if you are going to bet your life on it, hedge your bet with maintenance. If it is aboard the boat when we survey it, it must be currently maintained and functional, even if it is not a legal requirement.
Machine systems, engines, transmissions and generators, are the most reliable system on the boat for providing clues about impending failures. While rust stains and water accumulation may whisper clues of impending failure elsewhere in the boat, machine systems often shout their warnings. Many of these clues do not require years of mechanical experience or skilled senses. Many of the clues simply require the operator to pay attention and be aware of the normal function of the machines.
Most engines are equipped with gauges. Changes in any of the gauges should illicit a response. A change in the idle speed, oil pressure or operating temperature is easy to notice if one simply pays attention. Many of the operators put physical marks on their gauges to allow for ease in determination of any changes. Small pieces of tape or similar markings on the face of the gauge where the needle usually resides is a simple trick to alert even the novice boat owner of a problem.
We request cold starts during our sea trials for potential buyers. Starting an engine cold is an excellent indication of its condition. Ideally an engine should start during the first turn of the crank shaft, instantly when the key switch is energized. A hard starting engine is a bad sign. Notice if your engine becomes gradually harder to start. Pay attention to the exhaust smoke opacity (density). It often changes gradually but it is visible on most boats. Observe the engine itself and properly address any fluid leaks (coolant, seawater, oil, fuel, transmission fluid) or corrosion. Pay attention to the sound the engine makes, among simple clues are belt squeals and water pump or alternator bearing noise. Know that every component on the engine that interfaces with seawater requires maintenance. The raw water pump, heat exchanger, after cooler, oil cooler, exhaust mixing elbow and even the sea strainer require maintenance.
Our experience has provided insight to a remarkable difference in failure modes between recreational and commercial vessel engines. A recreational vessel engine that has worn out is an oddity. Recreational vessel engines generally fail due to the failure of some component part coupled with a negligent response to this initial failure. Though the negligence is often a result of ignorance, it is nevertheless preventable. Conversely, commercial vessel operators pay attention to the clues from their machine systems, perhaps because their livelihood is dependent. The high temperature condition is addressed and the running temperature is returned to normal, before the catastrophic failure occurs. This is a simple and clear example of the difference maintenance makes. Commercial vessel’s engines live longer because of better, more active maintenance.
Similar clues are provided to sailors. Standing and running rigging weathers and corrodes. Roller furling mechanisms slowly become more difficult to operate. Sail covers rip and tatter before the sails themselves are exposed to the harmful effects of the sun.
Vessels powered by gasoline engines or vessels equipped with propane cooking, require specific maintenance. Gas powered boats are required to have forced ventilation in the engine space. We commonly find blower hoses disconnected and rendered ineffective. Any electrical component in a gasoline engine room or gasoline tank storage space is required by A.B.Y.C. recommendations and standards to be ignition protected. It is difficult to determine if the starter you are trying to purchase is ignition protected or not. One sure fire way is the price tag, but asking the vendor is your responsibility. We encourage gasoline boat owners to use their nose to detect for gasoline fumes upon arrival to the boat. If the boat is kind enough to provide a clue that your vessel has a gasoline leak, return the favor by paying attention. In the event of a gasoline odor, we encourage an uneducated operator to enlist professional assistance.
A well designed propane system provides the necessary equipment for testing for leaks. Open the solenoid valve and the manual valve on the tank. Shut the manual valve and allow the solenoid valve to remain open for at least several minutes. Note the pressure on the gauge at the time the manual valve is closed. Any reduction in the pressure is an indication of a leak in the system. We strongly encourage the use of propane and carbon monoxide alarms in conjunction with propane systems. Carbon monoxide alarms and gasoline fume detectors are also suggested for gasoline powered vessels particularly if they have sleeping areas.
We hope this list of suggestions supplements your existing maintenance program and provides some useful tips in maintaining the vessel to prevent damage and to improve the condition. This will not only allow for a better marine survey report, but a better boating experience. Pay attention to the subtle changes and you may prevent the catastrophic event.
Conscientious Boating and Living
Boating and conscientious living don’t have to be mutually exclusive. There are unavoidable contradictions, the fuel burnt will contribute to greenhouse gasses and the material of the boat and supplies used will eventually be waste, but as we have raised our awareness on land, so we can at sea.
The emission issue is being actively addressed by our local community. The state has bought and continues buying low emission engines for many commercial boats that qualify under the Carl Moyer Grants program. Buying modern, efficient engines and keeping them maintained reduces emissions.
There was a full sized electric boat at the 2015 San Diego boat show and it was nice. There are many small electric boats. We can run the generator less, use an inverter or solar or wind. Choosing the “higher good” often comes with a price, less speed, less range and more money, but mother earth, our descendants, fisheries and coral reefs are worth it. Sailboat owners get a nod in the never ending battle with power boaters, but boating footprints encompass much more than engine emissions.
Thankfully more and more companies are able to provide green choices at the retail level and will continue to do so if they are supported. When we buy products for our boats (and homes) consider their impact. Soaps are important, there are so many, boat washing, dish washing, body washing, bilge washing, and it all goes into the ocean. Paint choices are also important and the industry and the San Diego Unified Port District have and are subsidizing environmentally friendly anti-fouling paint.
Reuse, repurpose, recycle. If we keep this in mind when we shop and consume, we can reduce waste. Reusable water bottles, dishes that we wash rather than throw away, cloth instead of paper wipes, rechargeable and/or longer lasting batteries and yes, there is a cost of both time and money. There was a marine surveying company giving away reusable shopping bags at the boat show :>).
Our boating group consciousness has been raised regarding trash in the water. Like the crying American Indian of our youth, the Pacific trash gyre and the tireless efforts of many are keeping our trash contained. Good job boaters, now let’s all go that extra step and keep a recycling container aboard too.
Some actions save money and are good for the environment. We can change settings on refrigeration units, air conditioners and water heaters. We can service systems so they operate efficiently and we can turn them off. Did you know your refrigeration devices should never “ice over”. If you have ice buildup in a refrigeration unit, it likely has a bad seal, compressor or thermostat. “That’s normal” is incorrect.
I am a wood boat lover, but we are a plastic boat community. In Chula Vista fifty foot wooden boats are being cut up daily. While the wood is organic and will eventually deteriorate, it goes to the dump to do so. I tried to repurpose one into a deck and the labor cost was too high, I am looking for suggestions and if you have any you may be able to help the cause and your bank account. There is plenty of source material for “distressed boat wood”. The same company is trying to acquire a fiberglass recycling machine to keep our exhausted fiberglass boats out of the dump, kudos to San Diego Bay Marine.
For the good of all, let’s keep the boating community thinking globally and acting locally.
A good reason for a survey – fiberglass laminate issues
In an old article entitled “Why we tap your hull” we discuss reasons that we tap on or percussion test boats. Percussion testing is used on wooden and fiberglass vessels, both single skin (solid) and composite (cored) laminates.
Many times we find small innocuous problems such as voids in the deck, but occasionally percussion testing reveals a more significant condition.
During a recent pre-purchase inspection of a 50’ luxury sportfisherman an anomaly was found during percussion testing. Initial tapping was done with a plastic/phenolic hammer (less cosmetic damage) and after an anomaly (different sound) was detected, a metal hammer (more definitive sound) was used to confirm the finding.
The area was on the starboard hull bottom and was approximately 3’ in diameter. The area sounded different than the rest of the hull bottom and subsequently we noted that it would flex with manual pressure applied.
The broker attended but neither the buyer nor seller were present during the survey. We requested that the fiberglass expert from the boat yard have a look at this problem while the vessel was hauled.
An agreement was reached between buyer and seller and a week later the potential buyer asked that we monitor the repair. The boat yard began by removing a coupon of the laminate with a hole saw. In this area the external fiberglass skin was not attached to the foam core, but the foam core was attached to the internal fiberglass skin. A few cuts later and the “never bonded” external skin was removed, leaving foam core exposed over a 3’ x 5’ rectangular area. No water was found in this area.
Three layers of a modern laminate were applied using a vacuum bag, the area was faired and several days later the hull bottom percussion tested normally.
Not all surveyors perform percussion tests. Most of the time the entire boat is not percussion tested, i.e. the upper portion of the hull sides that are inaccessible without moving a ladder slowly around the boat. We usually tap out the deck and bottom and the hull sides we can reach, but we certainly don’t tap every square inch. In this instance we performed our normal inspection and fortunately found this problem area.
I wouldn’t go so far as to use the cliché about the blind squirrel (who sometimes finds a nut), but luck is a useful tool in this surveyor’s bag.