Modern Advances

Modern Advances

marquis_420sportbridge_helm_2014_big[1]  A late model production fifty five foot motor vessel recently foundered after losing a generator… then one engine…and then the other engine. As we sat in our office and pondered the cause, we began with the obvious, “Had to be fuel, right? Once a diesel starts, it runs till you stop it or it runs out of fuel“, waxed the surveyors romantically.

The captain had developed a trusting relationship with the fuel gauges and they said the tanks were half full. Ever the skeptic of gauges, we asked if he had taken fuel that day, “no” he answered. So we looked at the fuel system and found the fuel filters a little low on fuel. We were having a tough time actually measuring fuel tanks’ levels and we held off on further inspection of the fuel supply system.

The captain said the generator died (a cause was easily identified for that one and it wasn’t fuel) and then the instruments dimmed and died before the engines died. Too much electrical coincidence? Perhaps. We called the engine dealer and they confirmed that electrical issues can cause these engines to stop and their computers should register a fault code if that happened. These engines won’t register a fault code if they run out of fuel.45-FootResponseBoatHelm816x612[1]

We asked the dealer if he could tell us how to read the codes on the fancy on-board engine monitor? “Nope, we have to read it with our proprietary software.” So a few dollars later we found the culprit “power loss to the un-switched power supply to the ECM”. Following that clue we found the culprit.

This boat had 12 and 24 volt DC electrical systems with 24 volts to the engines’ controls. The 24 volt batteries and the 24 volt alternator were bad, a problem masked while underway by the 24 volt battery charger (life support), as long as the generator was running.

We have also had several electronic engine control related claims in the recent past. One was caused by a ghost in the electronic controls and one was a lack of maintenance of the mechanical portion of the control system combined with a questionable “failure mode” of the electronic component. Both resulted in boats crashing into other boats.evinrude_idock_nl_120215[1]

The reality of our times is we are becoming more dependent on electronics, electricity and sensors. Try and find a new diesel that only needs fuel once you get it running. We used to believe in the “suck, squeeze, bang and blow” theory. It was real, get an old Detroit Diesel running and it was running until it lost fuel or air, period. We just had to get it to fire and turn once. Those days are gone and we need to act accordingly
This evolution requires additional maintenance. It is not enough to tune the engine and change the fluids, now we need to test batteries, check the charging systems and consider electrical redundancy and emergency electrical procedures. We need to know if we can run without the generator and for how long. If we already own a “smart boat”, let’s ask some new safety questions of our technicians. What is the failure mode? Can we carry a spare sensor(s) and where does it/they go? Is the windlass on the same batteries as the engines?

When we are considering buying a brilliant new testament to modern engineering, we need to consider the side effects? How dependable are those new fly by wire pods, joystick controls and fully computerized machines? Have they gone through enough research and development or will we be part of it? Is battery maintenance now a preventative procedure versus a reactive one?

And one thing we learned the hard way, if your electronic engine control system does start acting up, turn the engines OFF before you continue testing.

p.s. The new electronic engines are truly phenomenal with respect to emissions, efficiency and power production and the new controls and drive systems have simplified docking, just don’t forget the maintenance!

Paintballs and Pinnipeds

Paintballs and Pinnipeds

blogpicmain[1] I was hired to inspect a small damaged boat in Marina del Rey and as approached I noticed a large sea lion in the way. Sea lions (the ones with the ear flaps and long smooth foreflippers) and seals (the ones with the ear holes and short, rough foreflippers with claws) wreak havoc on boaters and fishermen. These otherwise lovable, cute, large, stinky creatures create controversy as they can be a nuisance.

While tourists love to take pictures of them, the one on the dock was trying to stop me from working and like the U.S. postal service, I must deliver. Don’t get me wrong, I actually like seals and sea lions, I dislike seagulls, the terrorists from above, but that battle will have to await another article.

On another recent job, an Oceanside customer told of his troubles with these marine mammals and his method of dealing with them, paint balls. He researched the legal methods of deterrence and it included paint balls, I couldn’t believe it, but he had a printed copy aboard his boat (link below). He was challenged by gun drawn harbor patrol, who stood down when presented with the documentation.

I thought you could not harass marine mammals but it appears that you can’t harass them using “potentially lethal means”.s316283394684049153_p14_i3_w715[1] Legal, non lethal means includes barriers, visual and audible means and physical contact. The options include: fencing, strobe lights, horns, electric livestock fences, cattle prods, Super Soaker type squirt guns, sling shots and water soluble paint balls fired from paint ball guns.

One “on line” suggestion was to use large dog food kibble in a sling shot, as it is biodegradable. Environment: 1 Seals: 0 Is it unethical or amoral to enjoy deterrence?

I found very little written about actual physical harm to people from these animals, but there was mention of “seal finger” an infection from a seal bite. I have witnessed property damage caused by these intruders. Ruined boat covers, damaged swim platforms and hardware in cockpits and one small boat submersion where the pinnipeds were our prime suspect. We have all heard of the nuisance they can create by trying to share dock space with businesses and municipalities and the most vocal and aggrieved subset of boaters appears to be harassed fishermen.

My recent encounter concluded when I walked to the other side of the boat, luckily it was not a double slip, stepped onto the swim platform and approached the dormant, sunning creature in order to accomplish the task at hand. The big beast arose, turned toward me, barked loudly, flashed both of her or his ferocious teeth and then dove into the water, restoring peace and letting me work.

This article is free legal advice and as one of my maritime attorney friends once told me “it is worth every penny you spent”. There are local ordinances and varied law enforcement interpretations that may cause you problems that this article won’t solve. And the article probably won’t stop the hippies at the Children’s Pool from giving you a big group hug if you pull out your sling shot there.

Most of the research on this article referred to the following publication: http://www.westcoast.fisheries.noaa.gov/publications/protected_species/marine_mammals/pinnipeds/sea_lion_removals/pinnipeddeterrencemethods.pdf

Preventing Petty & Grand Theft

Preventing Petty & Grand Theft

My work truck was stolen recently, from my driveway. I couldn’t believe it, car theft really happens, and the truck had Christian & Company Marine Surveyors all over it! I felt violated but it gave me writing inspiration. Our experience assisting marine underwriters with theft claims shows how a little effort can prevent most thefts.stop_boat_theft[1]

I can’t be sure, but I think my truck was left unlocked. The unlocked truck gave the thief opportunity. Theft happens to all size boats from tenders to trailer boats to mega-yachts. We can significantly reduce the likelihood of the theft of our boats or items from our boats by reducing opportunity and increasing the risk for the thief. We may not prevent theft, but we can help the thieves choose a different boat.

For boats kept in the water reduce opportunity for theft by keeping the boat entry doors and lazarette lockers locked. Make sure the hatches and windows are locked and store the key more creatively than most people do, i.e. hanging on a hook in a locker. Meet your neighbors, especially the live aboards, exchange phone numbers and watch out for each other. A boat stolen in Oceanside a few years ago was recovered off La Jolla after the neighbors alerted the owner to unusual activity aboard, and the owner alerted the authorities.

Security cameras (real or fake) are a fantastic deterrent to crime and real cameras are often used to solve crimes. Camera systems’ prices have come down significantly and they are easy to install. Signs announcing a theft protection system are a simple deterrent. An infra-red marina camera identified a thief recently in Mission Bay, the camera’s night time resolution was phenomenal.

The marina, yacht club or storage location of the boat is an important part of theft prevention. Basic security measures include locked gates, security guards and lights. I usually check in at the office but when I am “following” owners through locked dock gates I appreciate being challenged. Ask the stranger for a business card or send them to the office for a key. Leaving the gate ajar is an invitation to a burglar.
Some cruisers purposely let the exterior of their boats weather, so they don’t look like shiny beacons to thieves in foreign ports. We have surveyed many boats that appear neglected externally but are actually quite well maintained and equipped, but you may have to start a new class to win an award at the yacht club.

Simple ignition system protection devices, hidden battery switches and unavailable ignition keys make stealing the boat more difficult. Professional thieves are going to take what they want but the joy rider or opportunistic drunk can be thwarted and are far more common.

Component theft is more common and can happen to any boat stored ashore or afloat. The most commonly stolen items are high value, small and easily removed. Take the electronics home or lock them up, lock the outboard and keep the valuables out of sight. Fishing gear is a common target. Simply locking the lockers is an effective deterrent; after all, they are called lockers.

We see many trailerable boats stolen and stripped. This type of theft is best prevented by storing the boat in a safe place, locked gates, blocking them in with other vehicles, motion sensor lights, cameras, trailer locks and other visible theft deterrent devices will keep the thieves’ eyes moving to another boat. Many of these vessels are stolen from temporary storage locations that provided an easy target.

The truck story ended with a fair claim payment for a truck with over 270,000 miles, but the anger, lost time, lost money (deductible and depreciation applies) and energy was not worth it for me or for most people. I was most angry that the thief stole what I worked for. Shouldn’t thieves work for a living? Let’s make them work harder!

A Childhood Horror Story

A Childhood Horror Story

XvoQxOXhSCdelVbl[1]My children were probably 6, 8, and 10 at the time. We were moving our small sailboat boat from San Diego to Oceanside and were loading for the trip. The ten year old boy was stepping on with an armful of bedding, his Gameboy precariously perched on top of the pile. The Gameboy slid off when he was stepping up onto the boat from the dock and it fell into the water. Oh the horror! He reacted as if a limb had been severed, falling to the dock and wailing.

His eight year old brother wisely and immediately pushed his Gameboy further down into his back jean pocket. Unfortunately, during the continued provisioning, it worked its way back up and it too went into the water. Now we had a true family disaster to deal with.

Though I knew the electronics were likely irreparable, I dove in and retrieved the two games. We washed them with fresh water immediately and left them in fresh water until we later opened them and cleaned them. There is no happy ending, they were not resuscitated. We did learn some things about the inner workings of electronics, but it was a very small consolation to the two damaged youth.

I once dropped a cell phone in the water the day I bought it and paid extra to have the contacts transferred, remember those days?gb03_wash[1]

So what’s the best way to not experience this type of disaster? Prevention! Conscious forethought. Don’t put the “treasure” on top of the pile of clothes or in an otherwise precarious location. Note to self: use your wisdom to help your less experienced children and guests make smart choices. Ask yourself, do I really need to answer that call now? Can it wait until I am on shore or on the boat? We all drop our phones, usually they survive, but their survival chances are decreased on a dock. This is most relevant to live aboards and marine professionals who are often walking the docks.

If you do drop something at the dock, it is almost certainly retrievable. At the moment it enters the water, make a mental note of its physical location, i.e. five feet past the dock cleat. In many southern California harbors the bottom is mud and most objects drop straight down, sink slightly, but remain visible. If you are not a diver, there is often a diver in the marina, cleaning a boat, who is happy to make a couple extra bucks retrieving your treasure. The depth is often only 10 – 12 feet and easily reachable, don a mask (and perhaps a wet suit) and go get it. Contrary to popular belief, most people don’t get sick from swimming in the harbor.

If you are at anchor or adrift the recovery is much more challenging. If you are underway the odds are slim. If you have a weighted marker (float and weight connected with a line) ready to go, toss it. Noting a GPS location is not usually enough to recover an object without a lot of grid work searching and/or luck, but it is better than nothing. A floating marker buoy can also be used to mark an anchor and rode that won’t come up, so you can return and retrieve it later.

A final short safety reminder, in an emergency at sea, choose your VHF versus the cell phone as the mobile phone emergency operator will route your call to the Coast Guard anyway and you can save a few valuable moments by communicating directly with the first responder.

What is that Noise? – Snapping Shrimp

What is that Noise? – Snapping Shrimp

The first time you hear it, the noise will catch your attention, as any unusual noise should.

The first time I heard it, I was alone aboard a sailboat on Harbor Island in San Diego Bay. I was completely perplexed. I call it a “crackling” noise and someone else described it as the sound of Rice Krispies right after you pour in the milk. I recall my initial confusion and subsequent surprise when I was told what made the sound.

“Shrimp”, someone explained, “make that sound”. “What”, I thought, “how could that be?” After a few others confirmed the source of the noise I accepted it and began sharing the explanation with others, as I am often aboard with novice boaters. You only hear these little guys when it is quiet, though research suggests they are very loud (218 decibels). They aren’t usually audible over the normal noise of an active boat, probably because they are about two inches long, but try to go to sleep…

Snapping-Shrimp-Pistol-shrimp[1]
Pistol shrimp
There are many noises aboard boats. Some noises are unavoidable, like waves slapping on the hull and passing boats. Many noises (even pistol shrimp) can be soothing reminders that we are in our happy place, but some noises should be taken more seriously, for instance a short cycling bilge pump.
As a marine surveyor I advocate developing an understanding of the “norm” of the boat and reacting to changes, including different sounds. Get used to the sound of the refrigeration and battery charger. Familiarize yourself with the sound of the water discharging with your engine exhaust and/or your engine room blower running. Identify the sound of a water leak. Tell your neighbor to take care of that slapping halyard (it can be done).
Don’t forget to check the function of the “emergency” sound making devices, including smoke, fire and propane alarms, audible engine alarms and high water alarms. Know what they are and how to react.

 

Aboard our boats, my family prefers the sound of reggae music, though rock and roll, classical and occasionally funky dance tunes can be heard.
For more information about the pistol shrimp, or more scientifically “Alpheus Heterochaelis” check out the links below, the first one is a recording of the noise, or consult “Alpheidae” in Wikipedia
http://www.dosits.org/audio/marineinvertebrates/snappingshrimp/
http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/snapping-shrimp/

The most common reference I found to this phenomenon was a 2000 research paper called “How Snapping Shrimp Snap: Through Cavitating Bubbles” by
1. Michel Versluis1,
2. Barbara Schmitz2,
3. Anna von der Heydt1,3,
4. Detlef Lohse1,*

The Road to Ensenada

The Road to Ensenada

tollroad_r900x493[1]The toll road to Ensenada collapsed ab out 10 miles of north of Ensenada on December 22, 2013. An earthquake struck the area on December 19 and the road slid down the hill about three hundred feet three days later. This is the area of the road built on the side of cliffs, with the beautiful view of the ocean (and tuna pens), just south of Salsipuedes.

I have traveled to Ensenada three times since the slide. The road closure results in a minimal, one road detour that is easy to follow. The detour is well marked and impossible to miss. The detour is on to the “free road” and begins at the entry/exit point on the toll road know as Mission, located at La Fonda hotel and restaurant.

The detour does traverse a few switch backs on a two lane road, fairly busy with normal traffic including buses and large trucks. The detour slows the commute to Ensenada by about fifteen minutes if you are unwilling to pass the slow moving vehicles. The detour rejoins the “toll road” just south of the last toll booth (San Miguel) and all of the other parts of the road between the border and Ensenada are unchanged. You save $2.40 by missing one toll booth.

The failed section of road had been under repair for some time and the cause appears to have been reliable old gravity. The timing of the repair is not yet known.

For those who have not traveled the road in some time, there have been many changes over the past few years. article-2531060-1A57221200000578-98_964x569[1]The Mexican side has a new border entry located several hundred yards west of the old entry. The crossing is much “higher tech” than the prior crossing, but still uses the red light/green light random method to determine who gets a secondary inspection. The border road on the Mexican side has been rebuilt on a raised foundation, to allow its use in rain and flooding conditions. The return to the U.S. is slightly different, requiring a little zig zag at the transition between the road along the border and the access to the actual border crossing, but it is well marked.

The American border crossing at San Ysidro (San Diego west) now has three options, passports, passport cards (Ready) and Sentri. The Ready lanes are for R.F.I.D. enabled cards, including passport cards. The Sentri lanes are exclusively for Sentri, Nexus and Global Entry card holders and are the fastest moving lanes. The passport lanes are for all others (with passports required) and are the slowest moving lanes.

The boating draw to Ensenada includes fishing, surfing, economically advantageous repairs and general destination cruising and exploration. Traveling in Mexico is safe and fun. My family and I have traveled all over, mostly by plane, but some by car (including a drive to Cabo) and some by boat. We understand the fears many of our friends express but we are strong advocates of facing those fears and enjoying the alternative culture that is so close and easily accessible. The narco war is mostly calmed in Baja, the risks are minimal, and from our experience they are the same as they have been for the past two decades.

There has been recent activity regarding importation permits, properly displayed hull numbers and some impounded vessels. As with any foreign country, we must follow the rules and carry the proper documents. The motivation of the traveler and the boater are often the same, adventure, new experiences and exploration of the unknown. Mexico offers all of this and if you continue south it also offers warm water!

Three year old Captain

Three year old Captain

Mr. and Mrs. Johnson docked their 1988 60’ Egg Harbor Sportfisherman as they had many times.  They docked bow in, and secured the stern lines.  Mr. and Mrs. Johnson were walking forward to secure the bow lines, when the vessel lurched astern, breaking both stern lines.

As an immediate response, Mr. Johnson facilitated Mrs. Johnson’s attempt to board the vessel.  With her agreement, he launched her, she almost made it.

Mrs. Johnson made it onto the cockpit gunnel but did not make into the cockpit.  She fell into the water, grabbing a hold of the trailing stern line.

Mr. Johnson remembered a neighbor’s standup paddleboard stored on the dock nearby.

He hustled over, launched the board and paddled toward the still moving sportfisherman.  He approached the cockpit and attempted his own boarding.  Unfortunately, his attempt also failed and he ended up in the water holding onto the same line with his wife.  The vessel continued on an arcing course through Marina del Rey harbor.

The vessel eventually came to a sudden stop against a dock.

Mr. and Mrs. Johnson were able to climb out of the water and secure the vessel.

The accidental Captain was their three year old son.

Thankfully, there were no injuries and boats are repairable.

While the damage to the transom and cockpit deck was significant, this is the type of accident for which insurance is sold.

This true story caused the undersigned to reconsider old behaviors.  I have always left engines running until all lines are secured, thinking that I would prefer to have the engines available quickly.  In certain incidences turning the engines off once in the slip, may be more appropriate.  No doubt the Johnsons will alter their procedures and the family now has a story to tell forever.

Little Things

A commercial lobster fisherman was required to have a marine survey on his boat by his insurance company. The boat was a 1960’s vintage, converted U.S. Navy Captain’s Gig.

The owner was an intelligent, experienced, hands-on fisherman. Much of the vessel had been rebuilt, it had a new engine, propulsion components, electronics etc… The vessel had been actively fished for several seasons.

Upon my arrival, the vessel was hauled, the owner was not present. Most components were in good condition however the rudder was loose. The vessel was launched to allow the owner to fish the following morning. The steering system was tested and functioned normally. There was excessive water leaking at the rudder’s packing gland. The packing gland was mostly inaccessible for inspection due to its installation.

The owner returned and we discussed the survey findings, including the loose rudder. The owner was aware of this condition and stated his intention to address it. The owner and boat departed at approximately 5:30 p.m. late on a Monday afternoon. On the following day, Tuesday, at 2:00 p.m., we returned to the same boat yard to haul another vessel for survey. We saw the lobster boat hauled and were surprised to see no rudder behind the propeller.

We found the owner who described losing the rudder while fishing five miles offshore that morning.

Inspecting the rudder revealed a heavily corroded break surface, with two perpendicular channels, apparently for fasteners or pins.
The rudder post had corroded and failed, leaving the vessel without steerage. Fortunately the stub of the post remained in the rudder port, preventing a sudden and catastrophic flooding.

The moral of the story: It is hard to know which of the findings will manifest as a significant problem. In this case the problem which could have been simply a maintenance issue was in fact a significant mechanical problem and nearly a catastrophic failure. In an attempt to make lemonade the captain said “now I will have replaced all of the important parts of the boat”.

Flotation devices

Flotation devices

flotation“Nine out of ten drowning victims were not wearing a life jacket”, California Boating & Waterways sign. In my trade we often deal with tragedies, many of which were preventable by flotation devices. As in all safety systems, it is good to take a moment to reflect, maintain, and plan for events that may involve flotation devices.

U.S. Federal law requires one approved flotation device to be aboard for each passenger and the flotation device to be suitably sized. Logic dictates they should be easily accessible in situations when they may be required. Think flybridge, cockpit or an easily accessible locker on a small boat. Remember small boats can tip and life jackets can fall out. A sure way to keep the life jacket with you is to wear it.

Inflatable type flotation devices are much likely to be worn. Remember to maintain them per the manufacturers’ recommendations. And pull out those old PFD’s and discard the deteriorated ones (if you can rip a strap off, throw it away).

In times of flooding emergencies it is easy to get your passengers to wear a life jacket. Consider other risky activities like gathering fenders, lines, anchoring, launching tenders, heavy weather, etc… Remember to don life jackets in advance, the more it gets done, the more likely it will be on when needed. If the passengers or kids see the captain wearing a PFD, they will be more likely to wear one as well (it becomes like a seat belt if you start kids early).

Remember to discuss the location, type and proper use of personal flotation devices to all passengers at the onset of any outing. Know that some passengers feel safer wearing a life jacket at all times, particularly non-swimmers. Make sure all passengers know how to use the PFDs.

Remember throwable flotation devices are extremely useful, particularly for the accidental swimmer. Throw rings, throw ropes, horseshoe buoys, Life Slings, Man Overboard Modules, lights, whistles and man overboard poles help in different weather and lighting conditions. Does your boat have a reboarding device that is deployable by the accidental swimmer? Could you get back aboard if you fell in now?

The ultimate inflatable, the life raft, requires maintenance. If you are betting your life on it, it is worth the cost to maintain.

Don’t forget to consider other risks such as cold water and for boaters in freshwater marinas the possibility of electric shock, know how to spot this condition and learn how to react. The first rule of life saving is to not lose another person while trying to save one.

 

This article was edited on February 29, 2016.

Successful Sea Trials

Successful Sea Trials

It is vitally important for the engine(s) to be cold prior to the sea trial. Ideally the engine(s) would not have been run for several days or longer. A pre-start inspection of the external surfaces of the engine and transmission and a visual inspection of the peripheral components is performed while the engines are cold. The fluid levels are checked and any stains below the engines are noted. Among normal findings are corrosion, exhaust leaks, seawater pump leaks, oil leaks and worn hoses. If engine and transmission identification tags are visible the model and serial numbers, horsepower and gear ratio are recorded. If the maximum load/no load rpms are recorded on the identification tags that information is obtained and used during the sea trial for comparison. The same inspection is performed on the generator(s). At the time the engines are started the engine hour meter(s) reading is recorded. The cold start of the engine(s) is critical and ideally, it is an immediate start when the starter is engaged. A slow, loafing start is noted. The opacity (density) of the smoke is observed upon startup and after the engine is warmed up. If the engine has multiple control stations the engine(s) “starts” and “stops” should be used from all stations. Audible engine alarms should be available at all stations.boat01_sunk

We always suggest that the current owner or representative operate the vessel away from and in to the dock. It is suggested that the potential buyer also test operate the vessel to assure its operation is normal and to begin learning the control systems. There is no better time to begin an education than on a sea trial and usually there is no better teacher than an owner who is intimately familiar with the vessel. During the sea trial we will test operate the engines from all control stations, the steering from all control stations and we will observe the engine gauges at all stations.

After the engines are warm the engines should be operated at wide-open throttle for several minutes. All gauges should be read at wide-open throttle and the rpms should be compared to the design specifications. The engines should be visually inspected while running at wide-open throttle. Among items, which should be noted, are the exhaust system(s), the cooling system(s); the external surfaces of the engine(s) (oil leaks or fuel leaks) and the propeller shaft(s) should be inspected at the shaft(s) seal(s).

The transmission should be shifted and observed while shifting. Differences in the operation of the transmission from the norm or from each other are important to note.

The vessel should be operated in reverse. Some vessels such as sportfishing vessels should be operated in a manner in which they will be used, such as backing down on a fish.

All the electronics that require the vessel to be moving should be tested including the autopilot (set a course, hold a course, alter the course and hold the altered course), the GPS, knotmeter (compare speed to the GPS), fathometer/fishfinder/sonar, radar etc. and other control system components such as trim tabs and fin stabilizers should be tested underway.

The generator(s) should be test operated and loaded.

The steering system should be test operated from all stations and the rudders and steering system components should be inspected.

WHEN HAULED: When the vessel is hauled it is important, if possible, to inspect the vessel while wet. A wet surface will allow detection of blisters as a dry surface will limit. It is also important to have the hull bottom cleaned. Marine growth can hide blisters that will become magically apparent as the pressure washer removes the growth. It is our job as surveyors to request that the hull bottom be cleaned, if it is not cleaned upon haul out. It is our client’s responsibility to authorize the cleaning and the pay for the cleaning. It is most helpful if this necessity has been discussed prior to the point the vessel was hauled out, preferably when the survey is being scheduled.

Sailboats:

Assure the communication is made with the current owner’s/seller’s representative so that all sailing system components, which you would like to test, are available prior to the sea trial. Raise all sails that you desire to inspect thoroughly. Raise the sails yourself, including rolling out and furling any furling systems. Check out the various hardware, sail to several different points of sail, tack, and gybe at least once.Operate the vessel with the autopilot under sail, set a course, hold a course, alter the course and hold the altered course.

Inspect the leads of the various running-rigging components and take the helm during the sail. Try to plan the sea trial during the time day likely to have wind and pray for wind.

Pre-purchase tips for potential buyer:

Ask for the history of the vessel, including the previous owners, experience of the vessel geographically, significant events in the vessel’s history (submersions, fires, collisions, hard groundings, fires etc.), the age of significant components such as engines, transmissions, generators, exterior paint/gelcoat, teak decks, standing rigging, sails. Ask for disclosure statement including all known problems with the vessel’s hull structure, mechanical systems, electrical and electronic systems, tankage etc. Ask for the history of any blisters on the vessel and age of the anti-fouling paint. If major work has been performed, ask for documentation. Ask to see any old Marine Surveys.

If items are seen aboard during an inspection and there is any question that they are part of the sales transaction, discuss them with the seller’s representative.

If there have been any items recently repaired or replaced, obtain paperwork and analyze the warranty. It is best to obtain this information in writing if possible. The “disclosure” of problems during boat transactions is usually not well documented and a record of these important communications can be valuable. is best to obtain this information in writing if possible. The “disclosure” of problems during boat transactions is usually not well documented and a record of these important communications can be valuable.

 

This article was edited on March 1, 2016.

Disclosure

Disclosure

As Marine Surveyors, we are asked to determine the condition and value of a boat, often at the time of purchase. On virtually every listing there is a disclaimer stating that the specifications are believed to be correct but that the potential buyer should rely on his surveyor or other sources for verification. While disclosure of any known problems is a legal requirement during the sale of “real property”, it is not necessarily so in the sale of a vessel. So, what is the proper way to handle this issue if buying or selling a boat?

This article is being written by a marine surveyor, not a maritime attorney and not your boat broker. As always, balance it with other opinions and keep your mind open. It is our understanding of the law that the seller of a yacht is not mandated to disclose all problems (faulty engine, leaking tank, or worse – a broken ice maker…) or significant events (such as submersions, collisions, fires, etc…) to a potential buyer. It is our understanding that if the current owner is asked a specific disclosure question, he or she must answer truthfully. To do otherwise is considered fraud. The purpose of this article is not to provide legal advice but rather to put forth our opinion as to the practical means and ethical obligations of disclosure in a yacht transaction.

Ethical: pertaining to or dealing with morals or the principles morality; pertaining to right and wrong in conduct; 2. in accordance with the rules or standards for right conduct or practice especially the standards of a profession. Any right minded individual would prefer to know any significant historical facts of significance regarding the vessel that he or she intends to purchase. Equally, one should feel obliged to disclose any significant information to a potential buyer, particularly if it may lead to unexpected financial expenditures, operational difficulties or most importantly, safety issues. While communications can be verbal, we suggest disclosure statements be written. With the advent of e-mail the communication of this type of information is simple. The written statement reduces disagreement as to the specifics if and when it becomes relevant in the future.

One of the challenges to disclosure statements is the specificity in the request for information. The blanket request to disclose all known problems is much less effective than specific questions. We feel there are two basic areas of enquiry, known problems and historical events.

Among the most common problems with boats are issues with the mechanical systems, tanks, electrical systems, electronics, leaks (from above and below), coring deterioration and blisters. A series of questions specifically addressing these items, presented to the seller and answered before the deal is done, will go a long way towards providing documentation of information which should be transferred with the vessel. Follow up questions should include who has attempted repairs, when the problem was first noticed and if the problem seems stable or is it progressing.

Historical information of significance should include details of any significant catastrophic events such as submersions, fires or collisions. Again, we suggest written questions requesting specific information regarding this type of event history. Follow up questions should include repair specifics, such as which boat yard was used, when did the event occur, and what was the scope of repair. It is imperative to learn if there have been repetitive problems, i.e. water in an engine.

Major changes, upgrades or improvements in the vessel should also be documented. This would include re-powering, tank modifications, hull changes (extensions), paint jobs, re-wiring or new electronics. Again documentation can be very helpful if it includes who did the work and when it was done.

We feel that the disclosure of important information in writing leads to a positive result for the buyer, seller and the broker. For the broker, the ethical “high road” should lead to repeat business, higher income and a true sense that the right thing has been done. It is an essential part of representing your client properly, be it buyer or seller. Written disclosure of a known problem or prior event will certainly preclude problems when the malfunctioning system or event is later discovered and the buyer believes, “they had to know about that”. In the absence of this written disclosure, the opportunity for a bitter, dissatisfied client is increased. A buyer who feels that he or she has been defrauded can give rise to a bad reputation, law suits and a financial loss.top-secret1

Anyone in the business of buying and selling yachts has stories regarding disclosure. In my twenty years as a marine surveyor, I face this issue regularly. As a member of the Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors (S.A.M.S.), I communicate regularly with approximately five hundred surveyors on a “reflector” on the internet. It allows us to share information and ask questions.

Several years ago while viewing messages on the reflector, I was surprised to see an enquiry by my brother, a marine surveyor in Florida. He was asking if anyone had knowledge of the dropping of a large xxx brand motor yacht. Within minutes, I had shared with him my recollection of an event involving this particular yacht. The dropping of the xxx brand motor yacht occurred at a local boat yard over a decade prior, the damage was catastrophic. I was not professionally involved in that damage claim, but I was aware of the event. The vessel had been sold several times since the repairs were performed. My brother was working for a potential buyer and the potential seller had not disclosed the event to the potential buyer. During the survey process my brother became aware of the possibility of an event. Accidental disclosure does happen. Would disclosure have saved the deal? Who knows, but it certainly would have been the right thing to do.

I have found myself in court a few times and in deposition many times regarding conditions which were not disclosed.

Occasionally, egos, particularly male egos (being male I have license to generalize), amplify the significance of conditions which were not disclosed and can lead to litigation. One such event was the modification of a tank, from one usage to another. While the cost to return the tank to its original usage was significant, the legal fees over who was responsible for the cost were larger. It is difficult to determine the condition of tanks and their function, during a normal marine survey process. In this particular instance, the modification of the tank was not disclosed. When the new owner discovered the modification, the seller disclosed knowledge, and a legal battle ensued.

Though the idea of disclosure seems rather simple, there are nuances which complicate this issue. How bad does a problem or event need to be before it should be disclosed? Gently brushing a dock, a blown speaker or a dripping faucet cannot be expected to be disclosed. Furthermore, the statement of work that has been done can be overstated or improperly interpreted. An engine “rebuild” is often claimed but seldom means the same thing. One boat transaction resulted in a law suit after the seller stated an engine was rebuilt but later the opposing sides remembered the extent of the claimed rebuild differently. A written description of the rebuild would have certainly prevented this particularly law suit.

Currently most listing agreements do not include a section for the boat owner to list known problems or events. The listing agreements do disclaim responsibility for any problems arising from this type of omission, and most contractually obligate the seller to indemnify and defend the broker(s) from any liability arising from mistakes or omissions regarding vessel information. So, whether buying or selling the boat, it makes good sense to obtain a disclosure statement or disclose relevant information and to do so in writing.

 

This article was edited on March 1, 2016.

Why we tap your hull

Why we tap your hull

Spend time at a boat yard and you will be sure to hear the tap, tap, tap of a marine surveyor. “What are you looking for?” is a question I hear with regularity. At a boat show recently I heard a broker complain about a surveyor who “showed up with a small hammer and tapped everywhere.” Here is why I do it.hammers_opt

Tapping, or percussion testing, is an extremely useful non-destructive inspection technique. Tapping is not limited to boat yards; it is used throughout the world and in many different fields. It is included in the inspection process of stealth technology planes and space shuttles. It provides information that is not available visually and usually causes no damage, except for perhaps a small localized loss of bottom paint.

Its primary use in a boat yard is determining the condition of fiberglass laminates. It is also useful with wood and other construction materials. In fiberglass or composite boats, tapping allows detection of delamination. Fiberglass boats and their component parts, are made of several layers of lamination. Gelcoat, coring and fiberglass material with resin are among the most common types of laminates. A separation or “disbond” can occur at any level. Percussion testing allows detection of separation between the gelcoat and the first fiberglass laminate (skin coat). It can also detect delamination within any of the layers of the fiberglass, including delamination caused by osmosis (blisters) and disbanding of the layers adjacent to the core.

The vast majority of boats are manufactured with a cored deck. Hulls, stringers and other parts may also be cored. Coring is usually balsa, foam or plywood, sandwiched between layers of fiberglass. The fiberglass encasement on either side of the deck coring can delaminate. Thus, percussion testing both the top and bottom of the deck, where accessible, is a useful inspection technique. Fiberglass bulkheads are usually tabbed (fiberglass taped) to the hull sides. Tapping the fiberglass tabbing can determine if the tabbing is properly attached. Occasionally the tabbing does not bond (usually to the plywood bulkheads and I have seen vessels in which the fiberglass tabbing attachments (secondary bonds) were never well made. On a few occasions, this has left virtually all of the bulkheads “adrift” and grossly weakened the hull structure. Properly made tabbing can become detached due to an external force from impact, heavy weather operation or even over tensioning a sailboat’s rigging (usually a backstay).

In vessels that use organic coring material, and there are many, the most type is balsa or plywood. This wooden coring can deteriorate (fungus deterioration or dry/wet rot) and the deteriorated coring can often be detected by tapping. A properly made deck cored with balsa sounds solid and sharp when tapped; if the balsa is deteriorated the same deck sounds soft or dull. Deteriorated coring can also be detected by tapping stringers and transoms, particularly on smaller boats.

Tapping wood boats or wooden components also allow detection of deterioration. Bulkheads are often constructed of plywood which is covered with fiberglass, upholstery or carpet; tapping can reveal secrets that even the owner was unaware of. Occasionally when tapping deteriorated wood, this inspection technique becomes destructive.
Many of the things detected by tapping are minimal including “voids”. Voids are air bubbles trapped just below the gelcoat or skin coat. Tapping a void is distinguishable by the higher pitch. The area around the void will have a lower report than the thin skinned void. The voids are cosmetic and a nuisance occasionally but are rarely ever significant structurally.

The tapping can be done with virtually anything. Depending on the material and thickness of the component which is being tapped variances can be found using a finger nail, edge of a coin, butt of a screw driver or of course the preferred tool, a hammer.

Hammers can be made of bronze, steel, plastic or any hard material. As long as an audible report is made when the device taps the component being inspected. The difference in the sound made is what the surveyor is listening for. I have found metallic hammers give the most discernible reports, but I primarily use plastic hammers above the waterline. If an audible difference is determined I will also tap in the area a second time using a small metal hammer.

Percussion testing should be non-destructive. Occasionally voids will open, paint will flake and small hammer marks are accidentally made. I attempt to leave no indication of my survey and surveyors should be aware of any damage being caused by their percussion testing. One fateful survey began with a hammer becoming lodged in a rotten wooden boat. It was the first tap of that area of the boat and the last tap of that day with a hammer. I kept tapping, but used my finger.

While percussion testing is an excellent use of a non-destructive inspection technique it is but one of many inspection techniques, which are used in the process determining the condition of a vessel. Along with percussion testing many other methods are used in assessing the condition of a laminate. Flexing under foot, visual discoloration or cracks, indentations, crackling sounds when stepped on, concave or convex areas, discoloration are other signs of potential problems. Moisture meters can be used to help assess the condition of laminates and, when necessary, destructive techniques can be employed.

 

This article was edited on March 1, 2016.

Cored vs solid

Designers and builders of boats know that cored composite fiberglass structures have better characteristics than solid fiberglass structures. The general boating public does not. We tend to believe that solid fiberglass is stronger and less likely to suffer damage from water saturation, and the latter is true. Virtually every high performance racing sail or powerboat is cored.

The mass production of fiberglass boats began in the 1960s and from the beginning the advantages of coring fiberglass panels were known. Fiberglass panels’ strength comes from the exterior plys and the thickness. Coring is the addition of a different material between two thin layers of fiberglass and the resulting panel is better in almost every way.

Builders began coring hulls and taking advantage of the lighter, stronger composites and were able to make the boats go faster and be more efficient, and then they realized the coring process had its own set of challenges, including water intrusion.

Fiberglass coring is generally made of balsa wood, closed cell foam or varieties of honey comb. In the earlier days of coring, balsa was the normal choice. Balsa is actually still better in many ways than any man made coring, but it is organic and with moisture, fungus spores and the proper temperature, it deteriorates. Many production fiberglass boats were made with balsa core without properly sealing the penetrations, including through hulls, port lights, deck hardware, etc…

The boating public became aware of the problem and many builders started advertising “solid fiberglass hulls”, likely beginning the boating public’s opinion that this was a better way to build a boat. It’s not. It is however a way to eliminate concerns about water intrusion into core.

Balsa and foam core comes in sheets sliced on one side to allow it to bend to conform to a curved mold. These open “kerfs” would allow water to accumulate and flow, resulting in significant weight gain and in the case of balsa, fungus deterioration (rot). The boating community had a reason to be concerned. The cored composite was good, but the construction methods were not.

Most builders have come a full circle and are coring hulls but doing it better. They remove the core from around through hulls and port lights in the mold, they fill the kerf lines and they design and build with water intrusion in mind.

To determine if you have water in your boat’s core use a moisture meter, pull a through hull, drill a few holes or weigh it. If you determine you do have water in the core, should you care? Well if it is fresh water and balsa core, yes, it will eventually rot and the two thin pieces of fiberglass separated by rotten wood is not strong.

If you have salt water in your balsa (or on your plywood), it may not rot and of course the man made cores can live in water and not deteriorate. There can be issues with freeze and thaw cycles (expansion) and the added weight is never a positive, but many builders have responded to complaints of water in the core with “well seal the entry point to prevent air from getting in and it won’t rot” or “it is closed cell PVC foam, it will be fine”. And they are right, but as a surveyor, I know it will reduce performance and value. But like blisters, you may have water in the core for years and never know or care.

If you own one of the boats designed to keep water out of the core, be careful when you install a new through hull or piece of hardware, remove the core from around the hole, back fill with an epoxy and then bed the new installation with a good sealant.
p.s. most of those boats with solid fiberglass hulls still have balsa cored decks

Carbon Monoxide Danger

Carbon Monoxide Danger

Carbon Monoxide is the leading cause of accidental poisoning deaths in America, according the Journal of the American Medical Association. Boaters are only a small percentage of these, but much remains to be done to reduce the approximately 1,500 deaths (and 10,000 seeking medical attention) per year in the U.S.carbon_monoxide

Carbon Monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless, tasteless, toxic gas produced during the incomplete combustion of fuel, including gasoline, diesel, propane, CNG, charcoal, kerosene, wood, etc. It is a common misconception that diesel engines do not produce CO. Virtually any incomplete combustion process can produce CO. This includes heating and cooking appliances. Charcoal is one of the highest CO producing cooking fuels.

The danger from CO is that it attaches to hemoglobin and replaces oxygen in our blood. It is poisonous to all warm blooded animals. CO poisoning symptoms include shortness of breath, headaches, nausea, dizziness, confusion, fainting, coughing, watering eyes and at higher levels can lead to fainting and death. CO poisoning is often confused with the flu, sea (motion) sickness, colds or allergies, due to similar symptoms. Children, elderly people, people with respiratory problems or cardiovascular illnesses are more susceptible. First aid should include breathing fresh air immediately , followed by medical attention. If you suspect CO poisoning, be sure to mention it to your doctor, to prevent mis-diagnosis.

There are two steps which all boaters should do to prevent CO poisoning. Purchase and install CO alarm(s) and service all the devices which can produce CO regularly to assure they are properly functional and installed correctly.

Significant developments in the technology for CO detection and advancements in their ability to “average” the level of CO (over time) have occurred in the past 10 – 15 years. Previous detectors signaled false alarms frequently and thus became a nuisance and were ignored or disconnected. This is no longer true! Most CO alarms are currently very accurate and economical. Some companies make combination CO and fire/smoke alarms. Underwriters Laboratories (UL) has recently published a standard on marine CO detectors (#1524). It is important to use alarms rather than detectors, an alarm should provide visual and audible notification of dangerous levels of CO.

While researching for this article, I found no recommendations as to where to install CO detectors on a boat. The United States Consumer Protection Safety Commission (C.P.S.C.) recommends installation of CO alarms near the sleeping area, in the home. The International Association of Fire Chiefs also recommends installation of a CO alarm on every level of the home and in areas near combustion appliances. The proper location of CO alarms in a boat depends upon several factors. CO is about the same weight as air and will diffuse throughout a space. Most manufactures don’t specify installation near the top or bottom of a space. (Unlike smoke detectors which should be near the top of a space or propane detectors which should be low).
CO concentration is going to be highest near the source, thus it is logical to locate detectors in engine rooms of small boats (where the engine is the only source of combustion), but the alarm needs to sound where it will be heard. Some alarms/detectors have connections to allow for easy installation of remote alarms (bell, buzzer, etc.). Some environments will create more false alarms. You should read the instructions with your CO alarm. If the vessel has combustion appliances (heaters, stoves) a CO alarm should be installed near them. Since boats move and often moor next to other boats (with combustion devices), and a sleeping person remains in one space for many hours, a CO monitor in the normal living/sleeping spaces is also a good idea.

Of course a 30’ vessel with an engine, heater, and stove will not require three CO alarms, just one in the cabin should suffice, but use common sense as to its/their installation.
Most CO alarms cost only $35 – $40. Combination fire/smoke and CO alarms cost slightly more. The benefit outweighs the cost by such a large factor, that it is logical that every boat, which has an engine (or other combustion devices) and a cabin, or is ever moored or docked near other boats that have combustion devices should be equipped with a CO alarm.

There has been a recall of some CO alarms recently. In cooperation with the United States Consumer Product Safety Commission (C.P.S.C.), Kidde Safety is recalling about one million units including Nighthawks and Lifesavers. For the manufacture dates of the recalled units or more information contact Ken Giles at C.P.S.C. (301) 504-0580 ext. 1184 or Quinn Hudson or Bill Crane at Kidde (800) 880-6788 ext. 777.

Most CO alarms have a test button, to test the electronics and the audible alarm, but there is no field test for actual CO detection. Some of the products have planned maintenance/testing sold with the units and described in the manufacturer’s literature. There are hard wired units, battery operated units and hard wired units with battery back-ups.

Maintenance of your boat’s combustion devices will reduce your chances for exposure to CO. Properly tuning your engine(s), checking and servicing the exhaust systems and providing proper ventilation for combustion appliances and for the living spaces will go a long way to preventing CO accumulation. Do not procrastinate repairs to a smoking engine or a leaking exhaust system. Be conscious of exhaust accumulating about a stationary boat (remember CO is odorless), particularly if there is no wind and the generator is running on your boat or on an adjacent boat. One expert describes CO as a ‘puddle’ collecting around the source. Exhaust from your boat or another combustion device can be blown into your boat as well. Some boats create a back draft or “station wagon effect”, while running, drawing exhaust fumes back into a vessel, over the transom. Heed warnings by the boat’s manufacturer regarding running the vessel with hatches and companionway doors closed (particularly on express cruisers and sport fishing boats) and ventilate the boat well. Ventilate the boat, when possible, by opening forward hatches to allow air to flow through the cabin.

Combustion appliances are also potential sources for CO. Most boaters are not going to have an annual service on their heater or stove, so be aware of a yellow flame (incomplete combustion) and be aware of possible symptoms of CO poisoning. Contact the gas company or an appliance manufacturer’s representative to service suspect devices. Immediately consult with a doctor if you have current illness(es) which have not been properly diagnosed and discuss possible CO poisoning, then find the source and eliminate it.

Near the beginning of my professional boating career, friends of mine, a couple, were enjoying their express cruiser. It was a normal day. The wife began to feel ill. She went below to lie down. By the time they reached the marina, she was unconscious. Tragically, she died. She was a friend of mine, the wife of a friend and the mother of a friend. Since then I have read of many boating deaths each year, resulting from carbon monoxide poisoning. As I survey boats, I rarely see CO detectors and I often see poorly tuned engines, exhaust leaks and improperly vented heaters.

The price of a CO alarm is low, pay it – stay alive and healthy, and live to enjoy your boat for many years to come. Remember that CO can be produced in your home, automobile and RV as well and CO alarms should be installed there too. Many more deaths and CO poisonings occur at home and from automobile exhaust than from boating incidents.

Kells Christian is a marine surveyor and operates a marine surveying firm in San Diego, California. Kells is a graduate of the University of Florida and began surveying in Jacksonville, FL in 1990. Christian & Co. Marine Surveyors specializes in pre-purchase inspections and marine insurance claims on yachts and commercial vessels.

 

This article was edited on March 1, 2016.

How long will my engine last?

How long will my engine last?

enginesThis is a frequent question from potential boat buyers. Most mechanics and marine surveyors answer with some version of… “well, it all depends”. For this article I tried something different – research.

Virtually every mechanic I spoke to and online article I read supported my standard response. Boat engines don’t wear out, they fail because an engine component is neglected and eventually causes more significant (and expensive) damage. However there were interesting responses and research results.

The web sites BoatSafe.com and DiscoverBoating.com state that an average gasoline boat engine will run for 1,500 hours and the average diesel will last 5,000 hours before requiring a major overhaul, and a well maintained diesel may last 8,000 hours.

Randy Hynd, of Sunset Marine, a San Diego dealer for several popular gasoline marine engines said in his thirty years in the business he has seen two outboard engines wear out, and they had over 6,000 hours. He is aware of government vessels with over 4,000 operating hours on gasoline inboard/outdrive engines, and they “hardly ever wear out”.

Yanmar dealer PacWest Marine (San Diego) and distributor Boatswain’s Locker (Costa Mesa) mentioned 10,000 operating hours as a target for Yanmar engines and they report knowledge of a Japanese government boat with over 40,000 hours on its Yanmar engine.

Craig Stange, a San Diego based Detroit Diesel engine specialist said he has seen a 71 series engine run for 7,000 hours before ring and cylinder liner wear lead to excessive blow-by. He noted that two stroke engines (like the old 71 series) wear out faster than four stroke engines and he uses 5,000 hours as an average life expectancy. He stressed that more horsepower results in less engine life.

More horsepower from the same engine block will reduce the life expectancy. For instance, the Caterpillar 3208, a popular boat engine (of yesterday) is rated at 210 h.p. Add turbo charging and after cooling and, voila 435 h.p.   More than double the horsepower but with a significant decrease in life expectancy. A competition pulling tractor named Silver Bullet has a nitro burning, blown Cat 3208 producing an estimated 3,000 to 5,000 horsepower; no life expectancy information was available. And we think our boat engines have it rough!

Boat engines can last significantly longer than the common assumptions of 1,500 to 2,000 for gas and 5,000 for diesel if they get proper maintenance and usage. To get the most life out of your boat engine run it regularly. Explain to your husband or wife that the marine surveyor said you had to use the boat’s engines or they would break and major repairs are more expensive than the fuel. Pay attention to any hiccups, if it’s harder to start, smokes more, gets hotter or has any changes, address them prudently. Establish and maintain a suitable service protocol and don’t burn nitro.

p.s.  A different way some diesel engine manufactures (Cummins, Hino, Caterpillar) express engine life expectancy is B10 and B50. B50 is the time, usually expressed in miles, that a given type of engine will run before 50% of the engines will require major repairs (heads or oil pan removed). Many large diesels are rated with a B50 of 400,000 – 500,000 miles (not hours) and I saw as high as 1,000,000.

The Value of an Independent Appraiser

The Value of an Independent Appraiser

3170[1]  The independence of appraisers is a minor but important component for any industry. Accurate appraisals are a critical piece to any “free market” and that includes the market place for vessels. An accurate and independent appraisal is additional ballast to keep a boat deal stable, a small contribution to the righting moment. They help all sides, without prejudice. Appraiser independence is quite simply a financial and business application of THE GOLDEN RULE.

The slow healing wound in our economy is a painful reminder of problems with a lack of appraiser independence. An oversimplification? Perhaps, but it’s widely suggested that prior to the recession, real estate appraisers largely lacked independence and were instead catering to the market. One consequence is a major modification in the appraising of real estate in the United States. The government has mandated a change back towards independence. This mandated independence has resulted in increased bureaucracy and appraisal expenses.

Marine surveyors are the appraisers in the vessel market place. Market value analysis is the normal appraisal method used to appraise boats. It is an attempt to determine at what sale price an educated buyer and a non distressed seller will agree, i.e. “the fair market value”. An independent appraisal is based on comparable reported sales and listing prices and other relevant data. The value is determined by an unbiased and disinterested analysis of that data.

In our opinion and in most cases this data should be available to support the appraised value. images[5]The appraiser/marine surveyor’s client deserves an explanation of how the data resulted in the appraised value. While the marine survey or appraisal report is performed on behalf of a client, all parties to the transaction should have confidence in the independence of the appraiser. Without independence, trust is lost and without trust the value of the appraisal is… well you know what it is. You don’t need an appraiser for that.

An independent appraiser is not an advocate for a specified value. We often entertain a party to a transaction armed with data supporting their specific opinion of value. This data is often focused, narrow and exclusive of other relevant but contrary data. We have been sent old listings with asking prices which have been lowered several times by parties seeking inflated values and short sale and repo comps when seeking lower values.

The bad news is that boat values went down in 2008. The great recession, perhaps partially attributable to “captured” appraisers, cost the marine market place dearly. The good news is values are trending upward (organically, not artificially). With industry support for appraiser independence let’s keep it that way.

The Rats Ate My Deal

The Rats Ate My Deal

Our initial assignment was typical. The broker contacted us on behalf of a client interested in purchasing a 2005 Meridian 459 flybridge cockpit motor yacht. In this case, the client would not attend the inspection but requested a meeting afterwards to discuss the findings. While we encourage attending marine surveying inspections and feel it provides value added benefits, some clients prefer a more time efficient debrief after the inspection.

The inspection and findings were fairly routine. Among the items found was evidence of rodents; several pieces of bread and a few crackers were found under the saloon sofa and droppings were found in the bilge. A larger than normal number of lights were found inoperative, including many courtesy lights.18me3tmvrortxjpg[1]

The current owner’s representative acknowledged that a rodent had been aboard the vessel and had been exterminated. There had been no recent or continuing signs of a rodent aboard.

The debrief with the client, who was relatively new to boating, was again fairly routine. During the debriefing, the client focused on the rodent issue and the inoperative lights. The owner’s representative had cleaned the bread and crackers. He also explained that the courtesy lights’ bulbs were no longer available.

Subsequently, we communicated with the broker who stated that the buyer had decided not to purchase the vessel. The buyer had consulted with others and was concerned that the rodents may have damaged wires and this damage was a possible explanation as to why so many lights were inoperative. The client had asked the broker if he could guarantee there was no damage to the wires. Of course, the broker could not.

My initial reaction was surprise. The broker acknowledged having learned a valuable lesson. He deferred to the wisdom of the client making the possible connection between the rodent and the problem with the lights. While the odds may be small, the possibility does exist and most of the “experts” involved had not made the connection.

The clear lesson for a boat owner, and especially for a potential boat seller, is to address the small problems, lest they become big ones. Make sure proper cleanup is performed to finish any maintenance or repairs. Clean up the rat droppings, termite kick-out or waterlines after any infestations or water accumulation events. Repair the little things like lights and loose handles.

We can’t count the times we’ve heard potential sellers respond to a survey finding with “…it’s a simple fix”. Later, when the sale is in jeopardy, they must wonder why “it” wasn’t simply fixed.

Survey First… not last

Survey First… not last

It’s a familiar story around our office; the client has already purchased a vessel and now finds themselves in need of a survey. Occasionally, the client did not know the trade of marine surveying existed; more often they decided to save the expense of the marine survey when buying the vessel. Most often the boat fits on a trailer and will be stored in the driveway. The surprise comes when they decide to insure the vessel (or get a loan or a slip).oh_no

Many insurance carriers require a marine survey before binding the coverage. Underwriting criteria differs, but can include length, age or value of the vessel. Whatever their criteria, insurance underwriting often dictates the need for a marine survey. That is when we get the call.

Client, “My name is Mark H., and my insurance company needs me to get a marine survey on my vessel. I bought the vessel about two months ago and have been fixing it up; it’s in great shape”.

Surveyor, “O.K. Mark, we have just the product for you, a slightly less extensive inspection and shorter report, designed for owners seeking insurance. Price is slightly less than the survey we offer buyers, on your 25’ vessel that will save you $100.00”.

“Great, let’s schedule the survey for tomorrow morning so I can have my insurance in place for this weekend” Mark replies.

Everything is smooth so far and then I arrive at the vessel. Within moments I notice a group of unusual stress cracks on the starboard forward chine. After a brief introduction I begin the survey and point out the unusual stress cracks. Mark explains “I bought the vessel from a friend and went fishing on it several times, I am sure it is in good condition”.

Thirty minutes later I feel like the doctor bringing bad news to the patient’s family, in the waiting room. “Well Mark, I have some bad news. I found the cause of the stress cracks on the chine, the wood coring for the stringers is deteriorated”.

“That sounds bad, is it repairable?” Mark asked.

“It’s repairable, but it is going to require some time and effort or money; and you won’t be going fishing this weekend”.

This is a true story and though perhaps more drastic than the average findings, it is illustrative of a typical situation. Mark saved about $100.00 on the cost of the survey our company would have performed for him by being an owner versus a buyer. He chose to effect the repairs himself, the cost of material alone was significantly more than his savings, in fact the materials cost was equal to the cost of a pre-purchase survey. Mark’s labor cost was 16 hours, spread over three weekends. In Mark’s case that was equivalent to four rounds of golf, eight surf sessions or twelve long bike rides with the wife and children.

Many boat owners are not as fortunate as Mark, and don’t possess the skills to repair deteriorated stringers or other significant problems and must hire professionals at labor rates often approaching $100.00 per hour.

Mark just purchased a new boat; he hired us to inspect it before he wrote the check. He said “this is the best insurance I can buy!”

Marine surveyors provide benefits to boat buyers, not just buyers of large yachts. Surveys are often required for insurance and finance and lately by many marinas. Mark’s case illustrates a common misconception that a survey isn’t necessary. Check with your insurance company, lender or marina to see if you will need a marine survey, even if you don’t want one. Carefully consider the benefits of a survey against the expense, before you buy the boat and then choose your surveyor wisely.

 

This article was edited on March 1, 2015.

Who killed my engine?

Who killed my engine?

The mystery begins with trouble starting the boat’s engine. The suspense builds when charging and then replacing batteries doesn’t fix the problem. The plot thickens when replacing the starter still doesn’t do the trick. A mechanic is introduced into the story and twists the plot by diagnosing water in the cylinders. Who (or what) done it?

Let’s meet the players.

The engine is made by a large manufacturing company, they make the engine for cars, trucks or tractors. A marine engine company “marinized” the engine, i.e. they changed the cooling and exhaust systems. Radiators don’t work so well on boats and hot exhaust pipes are not welcome. The marine engine company adds a second water pump (raw water pump), a heat exchanger (acts like a radiator on fresh water cooled engines) and a water cooled exhaust system. Then the boat manufacturer installs it in the boat and connects the plumbing for the cooling and exhaust systems.
A dealer then sells the boat, perhaps modifying it during the commissioning. The boat owner finds a “mechanic” on the dock to help with the maintenance (and saves a bundle :>) and saves even more by doing some things himself!

The water the mechanic found is salt water. Can you solve the mystery?

It could be the engine manufacturer. The engine may have been designed wrong or assembled improperly, but they made thousands of these engines and no one is complaining on the internet. Perhaps it was the “marinizer”, they designed and installed the cooling system and wet exhaust, but why did the engine run so well for so long? It had started and run fine for the first five years.
HINT: The engine has been a bit harder to start the past year or so, but once it got started it ran fine, didn’t it? (the crescendo)

It might be the boat builder, perhaps they didn’t install something properly, like insufficient exhaust riser height or not enough slope in the exhaust discharge hose. But how could it have taken so long to kill the engine?

The butler in this proverbial engine murder mystery is the exhaust system. It is water cooled, meaning water circulates through cavities on the exterior of the castings (manifolds and risers) to keep the system cool. The seawater is injected and mixed into the hot exhaust gasses to cool them on their way out of the boat. The system developed a small leak, allowing a small amount of water to enter the cylinders and causing the hard starting condition for several months. Eventually the volume of the leak increased and when the engine stopped with the wrong exhaust valve open, one cylinder flooded and prevented the engine from starting. That piston just could not compress that water, no matter how much power you gave it from new batteries. (the climax)

The mechanic may try to rid the engine of corrosion and get it running, he may need to have the heads rebuilt to address the long term corrosion from the water leak in the exhaust system or the whole engine may need rebuilt. (the denouement)

The resolution, New Year’s Resolution in this case, is to pay more attention to the subtle changes in the boat and the engine. If the engine becomes harder to start, gets hotter, won’t go as fast or smokes more, resolve to address it immediately. If the bilge has water or the odor, if the dock lines are frayed or the hatch is leaking, resolve to address the problem before it grows into something more extensive and expensive…..Happy New Year!

assembled exhaust manifold and riser
assembled exhaust manifold and riser
normal dry exhaust chamber
normal dry exhaust chamber
corrosion in normal exhaust
corrosion in normal exhaust
excess corrosion in exhaust chamber
excess corrosion in exhaust chamber
exhaust manifolds removed from engine
exhaust manifolds removed from engine

 

This article was edited on February 29, 2016.

Heavy Things

Heavy Things

I borrowed the title from the band Phish. Their song by that name begins “Things are falling down on me, heavy things I could not see”. Can you guess where this is going? The heavy thing was a boat and I could not see the risk.

The physician’s assistant at the Torrey Pines Urgent Care said the good news was I had no broken bones; the bad news was I should not play golf the next day to let the heavily bruised arm and shoulder begin to heal. My beloved Friday tee time was cancelled, but I would be fine.

On my way to meet my wife, I tried to squeeze in a pre-purchase survey on a 17’ Com-Pac sailboat, located on Harbor Island (San Diego) on a trailer. To facilitate the inspection, the broker raised the mast and hoisted the sail prior to my arrival. The boat is a gaff rigged cat boat*. At seventeen feet in length, the broker joked that I was really advancing in my career; I quickly responded that there were two detached sail slides and began inspecting the bottom.

I noticed resin had been applied to the bottom of the molded portion of the keel (centerboard trunk), and I crawled under to get a better look. The trailer collapsed with the boat and broker on top, and all of it on top of me.

catsail_under500

I was close enough to the wheel to not get pinned, just hit hard on the shoulder. In survival mode, I scrambled with cat-like speed out from under the trailer. My body cushioned the fall so the broker hardly felt a thing, but he quickly became concerned and later said I had looked pale.

The trailer’s jack stand had swiveled up and collapsed. I had not checked the pin in the jack assembly to make sure it was inserted, I had not placed any support under the trailer itself nor had I secured the wheels. I was nonchalant and luckily paid only a small price.

Most boats we inspect are hauled out on a Travel Lift or supported with wood blocks (under the keel) and jack stands (on the chines). Boats that are out of the water can fall (see “A Fall Story” on our web site) and I know that. Don’t take safety lightly; another set of eyes and a few questions, though irritating to boat yard personnel, won’t hurt as bad as a falling boat.

Luckily this was a small boat and most of my body (including my small brain) was out of harm’s way when it fell. The lesson I learned again, be safe, block the boat securely.

Don’t forget small boat safety! Davits and davit cables can fail, don’t get under the tender when launching or retrieving. I have witnessed a boat fall when a davit’s cable broke, be careful.

My meeting with my wife was moved to the Urgent Care and the concerned broker thoughtfully insisted on driving me. Instead of golf, I finished the survey on the little sailboat the following day (10/5/12). I hope this story helps remind me, other boating professionals and perhaps you, to not become complacent and let this enjoyable hobby or vocation cause anything but smiles.

* Gaff rig is a sailing rig (configuration of sails) in which the sail is four-cornered, fore-and-aft rigged, controlled at its peak and, usually, its entire head by a spar (pole) called the gaff. The gaff enables a fore and aft sail to be four sided, rather than triangular, and as much as doubles the sail area that can be carried by that mast and boom (if a boom is used in the particular rig). Additionally, for any given area of sail, the gaff rig will have a lower heeling moment than a triangular sail. “Wikipedia”

* Catboat A cat-rigged vessel with a single mast mounted close to the bow, and only one sail, usually on a gaff. “Wikipedia”

 

This article was edited on February 29, 2016