marineadmin - Christian & Co. Marine Surveyors

The Value of an Independent Appraiser

March 16, 2013May 9, 2023marineadmin

The independence of appraisers is a minor but important component for any industry. Accurate appraisals are a critical piece to any “free market” and that includes the market place for vessels. An accurate and independent appraisal is additional ballast to keep a boat deal stable, a small contribution to the righting moment. They help all sides, without prejudice. Appraiser independence is quite simply a financial and business application of THE GOLDEN RULE.

The slow healing wound in our economy is a painful reminder of problems with a lack of appraiser independence. An oversimplification? Perhaps, but it’s widely suggested that prior to the recession, real estate appraisers largely lacked independence and were instead catering to the market. One consequence is a major modification in the appraising of real estate in the United States. The government has mandated a change back towards independence. This mandated independence has resulted in increased bureaucracy and appraisal expenses.

Marine surveyors are the appraisers in the vessel market place. Market value analysis is the normal appraisal method used to appraise boats. It is an attempt to determine at what sale price an educated buyer and a non distressed seller will agree, i.e. “the fair market value”. An independent appraisal is based on comparable reported sales and listing prices and other relevant data. The value is determined by an unbiased and disinterested analysis of that data.

In our opinion and in most cases this data should be available to support the appraised value. The appraiser/marine surveyor’s client deserves an explanation of how the data resulted in the appraised value. While the marine survey or appraisal report is performed on behalf of a client, all parties to the transaction should have confidence in the independence of the appraiser. Without independence, trust is lost and without trust the value of the appraisal is… well you know what it is. You don’t need an appraiser for that.

An independent appraiser is not an advocate for a specified value. We often entertain a party to a transaction armed with data supporting their specific opinion of value. This data is often focused, narrow and exclusive of other relevant but contrary data. We have been sent old listings with asking prices which have been lowered several times by parties seeking inflated values and short sale and repo comps when seeking lower values.

The bad news is that boat values went down in 2008. The great recession, perhaps partially attributable to “captured” appraisers, cost the marine market place dearly. The good news is values are trending upward (organically, not artificially). With industry support for appraiser independence let’s keep it that way.

How a Rat Ruined a Boat Deal

February 23, 2013February 19, 2025marineadmin

Our initial assignment was typical. The broker contacted us on behalf of a client interested in purchasing a 2005 Meridian 459 flybridge cockpit motor yacht. In this case, the client would not attend the inspection but requested a meeting afterwards to discuss the findings. While we encourage attending marine surveying inspections and feel it provides value added benefits, some clients prefer a more time efficient debrief after the inspection.

The inspection and findings were fairly routine. Among the items found was evidence of rodents; several pieces of bread and a few crackers were found under the saloon sofa and droppings were found in the bilge. A larger than normal number of lights were found inoperative, including many courtesy lights.

The current owner’s representative acknowledged that a rodent had been aboard the vessel and had been exterminated. There had been no recent or continuing signs of a rodent aboard.

The debrief with the client, who was relatively new to boating, was again fairly routine. During the debriefing, the client focused on the rodent issue and the inoperative lights. The owner’s representative had cleaned the bread and crackers. He also explained that the courtesy lights’ bulbs were no longer available.

Subsequently, we communicated with the broker who stated that the buyer had decided not to purchase the vessel. The buyer had consulted with others and was concerned that the rodents may have damaged wires and this damage was a possible explanation as to why so many lights were inoperative. The client had asked the broker if he could guarantee there was no damage to the wires. Of course, the broker could not.

My initial reaction was surprise. The broker acknowledged having learned a valuable lesson. He deferred to the wisdom of the client making the possible connection between the rodent and the problem with the lights. While the odds may be small, the possibility does exist and most of the “experts” involved had not made the connection.

The clear lesson for a boat owner, and especially for a potential boat seller, is to address the small problems, lest they become big ones. Make sure proper cleanup is performed to finish any maintenance or repairs. Clean up the rat droppings, termite kick-out or waterlines after any infestations or water accumulation events. Repair the little things like lights and loose handles.

We can’t count the times we’ve heard potential sellers respond to a survey finding with “…it’s a simple fix”. Later, when the sale is in jeopardy, they must wonder why “it” wasn’t simply fixed.

Survey First… not last

January 16, 2013March 9, 2016marineadmin

It’s a familiar story around our office; the client has already purchased a vessel and now finds themselves in need of a survey. Occasionally, the client did not know the trade of marine surveying existed; more often they decided to save the expense of the marine survey when buying the vessel. Most often the boat fits on a trailer and will be stored in the driveway. The surprise comes when they decide to insure the vessel (or get a loan or a slip).

Many insurance carriers require a marine survey before binding the coverage. Underwriting criteria differs, but can include length, age or value of the vessel. Whatever their criteria, insurance underwriting often dictates the need for a marine survey. That is when we get the call.

Client, “My name is Mark H., and my insurance company needs me to get a marine survey on my vessel. I bought the vessel about two months ago and have been fixing it up; it’s in great shape”.

Surveyor, “O.K. Mark, we have just the product for you, a slightly less extensive inspection and shorter report, designed for owners seeking insurance. Price is slightly less than the survey we offer buyers, on your 25’ vessel that will save you $100.00”.

“Great, let’s schedule the survey for tomorrow morning so I can have my insurance in place for this weekend” Mark replies.

Everything is smooth so far and then I arrive at the vessel. Within moments I notice a group of unusual stress cracks on the starboard forward chine. After a brief introduction I begin the survey and point out the unusual stress cracks. Mark explains “I bought the vessel from a friend and went fishing on it several times, I am sure it is in good condition”.

Thirty minutes later I feel like the doctor bringing bad news to the patient’s family, in the waiting room. “Well Mark, I have some bad news. I found the cause of the stress cracks on the chine, the wood coring for the stringers is deteriorated”.

“That sounds bad, is it repairable?” Mark asked.

“It’s repairable, but it is going to require some time and effort or money; and you won’t be going fishing this weekend”.

This is a true story and though perhaps more drastic than the average findings, it is illustrative of a typical situation. Mark saved about $100.00 on the cost of the survey our company would have performed for him by being an owner versus a buyer. He chose to effect the repairs himself, the cost of material alone was significantly more than his savings, in fact the materials cost was equal to the cost of a pre-purchase survey. Mark’s labor cost was 16 hours, spread over three weekends. In Mark’s case that was equivalent to four rounds of golf, eight surf sessions or twelve long bike rides with the wife and children.

Many boat owners are not as fortunate as Mark, and don’t possess the skills to repair deteriorated stringers or other significant problems and must hire professionals at labor rates often approaching $100.00 per hour.

Mark just purchased a new boat; he hired us to inspect it before he wrote the check. He said “this is the best insurance I can buy!”

Marine surveyors provide benefits to boat buyers, not just buyers of large yachts. Surveys are often required for insurance and finance and lately by many marinas. Mark’s case illustrates a common misconception that a survey isn’t necessary. Check with your insurance company, lender or marina to see if you will need a marine survey, even if you don’t want one. Carefully consider the benefits of a survey against the expense, before you buy the boat and then choose your surveyor wisely.

This article was edited on March 1, 2015.

Who killed my engine?

December 14, 2012March 9, 2016marineadmin

The mystery begins with trouble starting the boat’s engine. The suspense builds when charging and then replacing batteries doesn’t fix the problem. The plot thickens when replacing the starter still doesn’t do the trick. A mechanic is introduced into the story and twists the plot by diagnosing water in the cylinders. Who (or what) done it?

Let’s meet the players.

The engine is made by a large manufacturing company, they make the engine for cars, trucks or tractors. A marine engine company “marinized” the engine, i.e. they changed the cooling and exhaust systems. Radiators don’t work so well on boats and hot exhaust pipes are not welcome. The marine engine company adds a second water pump (raw water pump), a heat exchanger (acts like a radiator on fresh water cooled engines) and a water cooled exhaust system. Then the boat manufacturer installs it in the boat and connects the plumbing for the cooling and exhaust systems.
A dealer then sells the boat, perhaps modifying it during the commissioning. The boat owner finds a “mechanic” on the dock to help with the maintenance (and saves a bundle :>) and saves even more by doing some things himself!

The water the mechanic found is salt water. Can you solve the mystery?

It could be the engine manufacturer. The engine may have been designed wrong or assembled improperly, but they made thousands of these engines and no one is complaining on the internet. Perhaps it was the “marinizer”, they designed and installed the cooling system and wet exhaust, but why did the engine run so well for so long? It had started and run fine for the first five years.
HINT: The engine has been a bit harder to start the past year or so, but once it got started it ran fine, didn’t it? (the crescendo)

It might be the boat builder, perhaps they didn’t install something properly, like insufficient exhaust riser height or not enough slope in the exhaust discharge hose. But how could it have taken so long to kill the engine?

The butler in this proverbial engine murder mystery is the exhaust system. It is water cooled, meaning water circulates through cavities on the exterior of the castings (manifolds and risers) to keep the system cool. The seawater is injected and mixed into the hot exhaust gasses to cool them on their way out of the boat. The system developed a small leak, allowing a small amount of water to enter the cylinders and causing the hard starting condition for several months. Eventually the volume of the leak increased and when the engine stopped with the wrong exhaust valve open, one cylinder flooded and prevented the engine from starting. That piston just could not compress that water, no matter how much power you gave it from new batteries. (the climax)

The mechanic may try to rid the engine of corrosion and get it running, he may need to have the heads rebuilt to address the long term corrosion from the water leak in the exhaust system or the whole engine may need rebuilt. (the denouement)

The resolution, New Year’s Resolution in this case, is to pay more attention to the subtle changes in the boat and the engine. If the engine becomes harder to start, gets hotter, won’t go as fast or smokes more, resolve to address it immediately. If the bilge has water or the odor, if the dock lines are frayed or the hatch is leaking, resolve to address the problem before it grows into something more extensive and expensive…..Happy New Year!

This article was edited on February 29, 2016.

Heavy Things

November 16, 2012May 9, 2023marineadmin

I borrowed the title from the band Phish. Their song by that name begins “Things are falling down on me, heavy things I could not see”. Can you guess where this is going? The heavy thing was a boat and I could not see the risk.

The physician’s assistant at the Torrey Pines Urgent Care said the good news was I had no broken bones; the bad news was I should not play golf the next day to let the heavily bruised arm and shoulder begin to heal. My beloved Friday tee time was cancelled, but I would be fine.

On my way to meet my wife, I tried to squeeze in a pre-purchase survey on a 17’ Com-Pac sailboat, located on Harbor Island (San Diego) on a trailer. To facilitate the inspection, the broker raised the mast and hoisted the sail prior to my arrival. The boat is a gaff rigged cat boat*. At seventeen feet in length, the broker joked that I was really advancing in my career; I quickly responded that there were two detached sail slides and began inspecting the bottom.

I noticed resin had been applied to the bottom of the molded portion of the keel (centerboard trunk), and I crawled under to get a better look. The trailer collapsed with the boat and broker on top, and all of it on top of me.

I was close enough to the wheel to not get pinned, just hit hard on the shoulder. In survival mode, I scrambled with cat-like speed out from under the trailer. My body cushioned the fall so the broker hardly felt a thing, but he quickly became concerned and later said I had looked pale.

The trailer’s jack stand had swiveled up and collapsed. I had not checked the pin in the jack assembly to make sure it was inserted, I had not placed any support under the trailer itself nor had I secured the wheels. I was nonchalant and luckily paid only a small price.

Most boats we inspect are hauled out on a Travel Lift or supported with wood blocks (under the keel) and jack stands (on the chines). Boats that are out of the water can fall (see “A Fall Story” on our web site) and I know that. Don’t take safety lightly; another set of eyes and a few questions, though irritating to boat yard personnel, won’t hurt as bad as a falling boat.

Luckily this was a small boat and most of my body (including my small brain) was out of harm’s way when it fell. The lesson I learned again, be safe, block the boat securely.

Don’t forget small boat safety! Davits and davit cables can fail, don’t get under the tender when launching or retrieving. I have witnessed a boat fall when a davit’s cable broke, be careful.

My meeting with my wife was moved to the Urgent Care and the concerned broker thoughtfully insisted on driving me. Instead of golf, I finished the survey on the little sailboat the following day (10/5/12). I hope this story helps remind me, other boating professionals and perhaps you, to not become complacent and let this enjoyable hobby or vocation cause anything but smiles.

* Gaff rig is a sailing rig (configuration of sails) in which the sail is four-cornered, fore-and-aft rigged, controlled at its peak and, usually, its entire head by a spar (pole) called the gaff. The gaff enables a fore and aft sail to be four sided, rather than triangular, and as much as doubles the sail area that can be carried by that mast and boom (if a boom is used in the particular rig). Additionally, for any given area of sail, the gaff rig will have a lower heeling moment than a triangular sail. “Wikipedia”

* Catboat A cat-rigged vessel with a single mast mounted close to the bow, and only one sail, usually on a gaff. “Wikipedia”

This article was edited on February 29, 2016

Marina Heroes

October 19, 2012May 9, 2023marineadmin

On Wednesday, September 26, 2012, I was having a normal day, surveying a 70’s era Ingrid 38 cruising sailboat, for a nice young man with plans on sailing the Indian Ocean. We finished the deck and cockpit and had just entered the cabin. I was in the engine space and my tall client was standing in the cabin looking aft at the engine. We had no idea how exciting the day was to become.

The client became distracted and I heard people yelling. I was blind to the action but he could see out of the companionway and something had caught his attention. For a few moments he couldn’t vocalize his thoughts. Eventually he said “that boat’s in trouble”, indicating a problem but not the nature of the problem. I asked him if they needed help and he again paused, and appeared almost frozen. Something was preventing him from normal communication and action.

We were in Marina Cortez, on Harbor Island in San Diego; it was midday, clear and sunny. After several long moments (actually only a few seconds) he said “a boat is on fire” and I quickly exited the engine room to assess the situation. The Ingrid’s owner said “I’ll get an extinguisher”. After I saw the fire, I told him, “never mind the extinguisher, let’s go move some boats.” A sport-fishing boat located directly across the fairway and upwind was “fully involved” as the fire pros say. It was ablaze with flames jumping and smoke beginning to billow.

I have been involved with many boat fire claims after the fact, but this was only the second one I have witnessed. Several years ago I saw a boat aflame on a mooring in America’s Cup Harbor, by the time I saw it fire fighters were already there. This fire had just begun and was on the next dock. There were boats in the slips adjacent to the fire origin boat and I knew we could reduce the damage by moving the adjacent boats. Then I heard several explosions, I paused and reconsidered. “Maybe not” I thought for a moment, perhaps we should let them burn and stay at a safe distance.

I deduced that tanks had expanded and exploded and ran to help. By the time I arrived at the burning boat, one of the dock’s fire hoses was being discharged on the fire and a second dock fire hose joined in shortly thereafter. One of the neighboring boats had been cut loose and was drifting towards my client and the boat owner of the boat I was surveying, they helped gather and secure it. Moments later the other neighboring boat was on its way to safety, across the fairway.

One of the fire hoses was being manned by a guy in a wet suit, apparently a diver at work before volunteering for this job. I asked if he was okay or wanted relief, he said no, he was strong and steady. There was a lady using a smaller water hose, dousing the adjacent boats to prevent further damage. I noticed the lady from the office hustling down to the scene as well.

The boats that were removed included a Columbia sailboat and a Hatteras power boat; both were badly damaged, but appeared repairable. If they had been left much longer, the fire would have grown considerably and caused more damage. The boats were all approximately fifty feet long.

The wind was blowing down toward our dock and the smoke was thick. It was clear that the fire could have jumped docks if it had not been contained. The fire department arrived within a few minutes and a shiny new fire boat was soon pumping water onto the fire. When I returned to the boat I was surveying, I noticed they had deployed a fire hose on that dock as well and had apparently doused the two boats that came floating across the fairway, to prevent any flare ups.

I noticed local heroes reacting to an emergency, saving property and helping their fellow boaters. The gang of responders knocked down the fire, saved two boats and possibly many others. They all acted selflessly. The diver, the neighboring boater with the small hose, the marina office staff and numerous other responders deserve kudos! Thank you for your efforts!

This article was edited on February 29, 2016.

Mega Yacht Emergency

July 20, 2012May 9, 2023marineadmin

I arrived to the shipyard shortly after the 100+ foot steel yacht had been launched. The majority of the survey was completed while the vessel was hauled, but the client requested a sea trial and, surprise, the launch was delayed. This day was devoted to a sea trial, but another surprise would delay it once again.

The boat had been out of the water for several weeks, there was a transom extension, exterior paint job and a few new electronics were installed. The yard described the job as a “freshen up” versus a “refit”. The owner needed a marine survey report for his insurance carrier and wanted a survey to check on the condition of the boat after the yard was done.

Most of our condition and valuation (C & V) survey customers fall into one of two categories: those who want a marine survey and those who need one. This customer was the rare customer who was required to obtain a survey and took the opportunity to have a surveyor assess the boat fully. A survey performed in the water, out of the water and underway is more thorough than one that omits any of these procedures, and this client requested the full Monty.

During the yard time the vessel had changed engineers but the captain had been with the boat for a long time and both were aboard for the sea trial. The new engineer was in the engine room. I began there, to check conditions before the sea trial commenced. An attractive steward was in the engine room as well, and perhaps she was a distraction, but the engineer was toiling away completely oblivious to the water in the bilge. These engines were mounted high above a deep bilge; three and a half feet of water had risen up to the bottom of the oil pans.

My mention of the water quickly changed the engineer’s focus from his previous job to the more pressing matter of dewatering the boat before the water rose any higher. Like most yachts of this size, the primary dewatering system was a pair of AC electric pumps that were coupled to a manifold system to allow them to serve various functions (fire or bilge) and to draw from different bilge compartments (separated by water tight bulkheads). The engineer opened the proper valves and energized the first pump, both of us initially thought this would be a short process and the sea trial would continue as planned.

I am somewhat accustomed to unexpected conditions in boats. We handle lots of damage claims and the sheer number of vessels we are on inevitably leads to our encountering problems. So I was initially unfazed and began my normal inspection process. After ten or fifteen minutes, I noticed the water level was still rising, now half way up the engines’ oil pans and decided to stop surveying and focus on the most pressing concern.

This event occurred in Mexico and the crew spoke English as well as I speak Spanish. Though my bilingual children and Spanish conversant wife find it humorous, my Spanish is not easily understood by a native speaker. The words flow out of my mouth as easily as the water was flooding the bilge, but their meaning was as unclear as the source of the water. Funny, I know what I am trying to say. The engineer attempted to bring the second pump on line, but he was having trouble with the stiff valves. I noticed the tool box and handed him tools which he used to move the stubborn valves. I found a large pipe wrench to replace the screw driver he was sticking through the valve handles. Now the water level was at the top of the engines’ oil pans and I was concerned because we were losing the battle.

I knew the engineer was new, he spoke less English than the Captain and the water level was still rising after two significant bilge pumps were energized. I found and alerted the captain of the problem. I then spoke with the yard manager, explained the situation and requested an emergency bilge pump. The yard manager was bilingual and quickly brought an emergency bilge pump, but the hose was too short. The closest point of discharge was out the transom “garage” door and the hose didn’t make it all the way. Another delay occurred while another section of hose was located, brought to the boat and coupled to the existing hose.

The emergency pump began dewatering the engine room bilge and the Captain examined the primary bilge pumping system. He noticed that there was nothing discharging from the discharge through hulls and examined the position of the valves. They were in the proper position, but the motors and tubes connected to them were warm; they were not pumping water. The Captain closed the valves, and then opened them slowly. The pumps took a prime and in no time the engine room bilge was dry.
The entire process took less than an hour, but the engines were partially cooled by external electric pumps which had been submerged and were rendered inoperative. The sea trial was postponed.
There are a few lessons in this story.

Know your systems and know how to check them for proper function. The new engineer knew the bilge pump system, but had not learned how to check them for function. He did not check the discharge, which would have quickly revealed the system was not pumping water. He did not note the warm pumps and tubes, indicating the pumps were not pumping water. The more knowledgeable captain recognized the problem and by priming the pumps, quickly dewatered the bilge.

Service the systems regularly, best done by adhering to a written maintenance plan. The second bilge pump’s valves were seized and obviously had not been maintained. Consider what “fire drills” your crew needs: emergency tiller handle installation, man overboard, abandon ship…..
Install a high water alarm, it is easy, inexpensive and is much better than discovering the high water level with your feet when you get out of bed.

The leak was quickly found once the water level was below the leak, leaks below the waterline are tough to find. The leak was from the propeller shaft seal’s priming system, it was opened and forgotten about. The lesson here…after launching a boat, pay attention…no, that’s not it.

As far as the engineer’s distraction, well this is a boating story, not a morality tale.

This article was edited on February 29, 2016.

Jet Lev

May 13, 2012May 1, 2023marineadmin

So I am driving home last week, listening to the public radio station, and the economic reporter is using an analogy about jet packs. He says when he was a kid jet packs were the exciting invention for the future and we were supposed to have them readily available by now to fly over to a friend’s house. He said instead of jet packs we have the possibility of fueling our cars with algae, not as exciting.

Fast forward a few days to Saturday, April 28, 2012. I am in Newport Harbor, Newport Beach, California. I am being transported on a tender from Balboa Island to a boat on a mooring near the car ferry (that runs from Balboa Island to the peninsula) to do a job aboard a boat on a mooring. The job is done and I get back in the tender and what do my child like eyes behold, a man on a jet pack.

My client, who is driving the tender, is unfazed and simply and calmly states, yeah he’s out here all the time. “What?” I exclaim! I absolutely must get a closer look, I am riveted and amazed. The jet flyer is hovering low to the water and then up 30 feet in the air. The flyer gets the attention of a small boat full of rambunctious young ladies and he returns the attention by tilting his water jet stream toward them in a flirtatious manner. The wisp of water spikes the volume of audible delight coming from the group in the boat.

I am equally rapt. I pull out my camera and plead for the operator to get me closer so I can take a picture of this flyer. He is cool. He is flying around Newport Harbor on a water jet pack. Finally a jet pack in action, tangible, practical? safe?…

I briefly researched the device on the internet this morning; it is called a Jet Lev R200. I assume the R200 is to make it sound science fiction-like or technological. On the Jet Lev web site the inventor, Raymond Li, is quoted “When I was 14 years old I saw James Bond fly a jet pack in the movie “Thunderball”, and have dreamed of flying one ever since.” Me too!

The Jet Lev Southwest (Newport Beach) web site (jetlevsouthwest.com) lists current pricing at $250 – $300 for the first flight and about $200 more for each further flight, where you can advance your skills to include “submarines” and “walk on waters”. The web site also uses words like, “safe” and “stable”, and phrases like “ease- of- use” and my favorite, “your dream of personal flight”.

That’s it, dreams of personal flight, just like Raymond Li, I have that dream and I am sure he and I are not alone. Sure most of those dreams did not include a jet pack, but now they might.

I continued my research and found out that there was an epic fail of the Jet Lev at a San Diego boatshow live on a Fox 5 San Diego TV news cast from July 2011 (http://gizmodo.com/5821541/dont-crash-your-jetpack-into-the-ocean-on-live-tv). The operator attempts to take off from the dock, bumps the reporter and then nose dives into the water. The news’ anchors reaction is hilarious and of course it brings up the question of safety, but the guy is out of the water and flying in an instant. The web site explains that he accidentally bumped the emergency kill button (as found on a personal water craft or small boat).

So in my exuberance, I tried to show my home made video to my two sons this morning. The 16 year old tells me he is sleeping and to go away. I don’t even get him to open his eyes when I bring the video to him on my lap top. My 14 year old is willing to watch my video and the professional videos on the web site, but has seen it somewhere in his “youtubing” in the past. Neither shares my enthusiasm; perhaps my 11 year old daughter will follow her dad when she gets home from her sleepover? My narration of my home made video of the jet flyer includes allusions to the Jetsons and Gilligan’s Island, lost on my children. Well I still have my shared (childhood) dreams with the announcer on PBS and I am certain that one warm summer day in 2012 I will be flying over Newport Harbor and I will pay the up charge for the Go-Pro video recording as a fond reminder and likely a great piece of personal comedic nostalgia for my children and theirs.

Maritime Emergency, Immediate Response

April 20, 2012March 9, 2016marineadmin

The best way to learn how to get out of trouble is to get out of trouble. The problem is that you have to get into trouble first. Through the insurance claims we have assisted with, we have developed a sense of the initial responses that are effective versus those that are not. Time is often short in these situations and the first action is critical.

In order of importance, we need to preserve life, health and property. Our first response is governed by the type of emergency, our vessel’s location, resources and our personal knowledge. It is great if you are a doctor when a passenger has a stroke and it is great if you are a mechanic when your engine springs a leak. If you are not so fortunate, then use your brain, quickly and calmly assess the situation, decide what to do and delegate the jobs as possible.

Some immediate actions are common to most emergencies. Announce your emergency to the available trained assistance professionals as quickly as possible. The Coast Guard, Fire Department, Life Guards and even professional towing companies can be invaluable. Use the VHF versus your cell phone. Ideally, the most capable person should address the emergency while a capable alternate communicates the nature of the emergency to potential first responders. Several types of maritime emergencies will eventually lead to the inability to communicate a distress call, so get it out quickly.

Your location and the natural resources available should be considered. If your transmission control fails and you are stuck in forward gear, operate towards the open water not towards a crowded mooring. If your boat is sinking, stay close to the soft sand beach versus the rock jetty. If a passenger is stricken with a serious sudden injury or illness, see if any medical assistance is available in your immediate vicinity. A doctor on a boat next door is more valuable than the one at the emergency room thirty minutes away. Send others in both directions down the dock, use all your personnel.

Your options depend on where your vessel is located, your slip, the bay, near coastal or offshore. If the transmission is stuck in gear, head away from the mooring areas, if you’re taking on water, head toward the soft sand beach and away from the rock jetty. Planning for emergencies should include safety and first aid components suitable for the intended area of usage and for the passengers, consider an oxygen bottle, EPIRB or life raft.

A fire aboard a boat demands a quick and efficient response. No matter how big the ship, you can’t run away from the fire. Fires aboard a boat are usually discovered by smoke. Make sure the smoke is being generated by an actual flame before deciding what action is required. Many boat “fires” are actually smoke escaping from the engine’s exhaust system. These “fires” can be stopped by turning off the engine. Discharging a fire extinguisher into the engine room, or the saloon, will not stop the smoke and increases the mess.

Before entering the engine room to determine the source, check the hatch for heat. Once the location of the fire is determined, decide if it can be safely extinguished and if so extinguish the fire by any means possible. Discharge all of your fire extinguishers at the base of the flame, delegate others to fill buckets of water (we know you have plenty of that), shut off power and fuel sources and don’t inhale the smoke. Discharge fixed extinguishers remotely if possible; use remote pulls for fixed systems or holes designed for discharging extinguishers is smaller engine spaces (many sailboats have these).

To avoid smoke inhalation stay low in any cabin filling with smoke.

[hint – maintain firefighting equipment, consider smoke alarms and escape hoods]

A quote from my favorite mentor is “Nothing, absolutely nothing good ever comes from water in the bilge”. At the first sign of water intrusion, every effort should be made to determine the source. If the water is warm, it is coming from the engine. Cold water is from the ocean and it can be tricky to find the source if it is already submerged. Check the obvious places, shaft seals, through hulls and sea water hoses. Isolating the area of the source reduces the possibilities. The next most important action is to begin the dewatering process. Again, a second capable person can attend to this action, after broadcasting the distress. Activate all bilge pumps in the manual/constant mode.

[hint – maintain the bilge pumps, shaft seals and seawater systems and install a high water alarm]

Occasionally, boats get in collisions; even boats not involved in a sailing race occasionally collide. As always, check for personal injuries. Immediately after the collision, start the engine, douse the sails (a little powerboat vs. sailboat joke), and have a competent operator take the helm. Triage the injury, is there water coming in, is an emergency patch or repair required? If the vessel is flooding quickly and it is clear no emergency patch or pumping action will save it, consider beaching the vessel, preferably on soft sand. Give the mast temporary support if the impact affected the shrouds or stays. Call for a tow if safety is questionable.

[hint – post a proper lookout at all times, use radar in limited visibility. avoid contact even if you have the right of way – unless you are making your living racing]

Striking a submerged object or running aground is an avoidable emergency. Once it happens, check for water and access the damage before deciding how to continue. Sailboats check the aft end of the keel box (keels hinge up and aft upon impact), power boats check propeller shafts/seals, struts’ connections and rudder ports. Follow the lead of the professional mariners, know your waters. Did you know that there is a charted submerged jetty on the east side of the main entrance into San Diego bay, near Ballast Point (de-gauzing station)? There is probably a similar charted hazard in your most common boating area. After the initial damage make sure no further damage is done by continuing to operate a damaged outdrive, transmission or engine. If in doubt, call for a tow.

[hint – read your chart]

Losing your engine/propulsion capabilities or electricity can lead to a nautical emergency. Sophisticated fire fighting systems on most yachts include an over ride. This allows the system to be disabled while the vessel enters a dangerous inlet. The thought is “let the fire burn” for the few minutes that it takes to transit safely past the dangerous rocks, especially in a heavy seaway. If your propulsion system does fail, assess your situation, ready your anchor, have crew members grab fenders (versus fending off with body parts) and if possible raise your sails. If offshore, prevent the vessel from reaching the waves. Deploy an anchor, and make sure it sets.

Losing the electrical power is often more frightening as the options for calling for help is reduced. First response to any loss of electrical power is to assure that no associated fire hazard exists.

Electrical and mechanical malfunctions are often repairable. Be calm, thoroughly assess the situation and use all available resources, (onboard and at the other end of your VHF or mobile phone) and you can likely keep boating that day. Diesel engines don’t lose compression or air quickly, it is a fuel problem. All the batteries don’t fail simultaneously and there are often various charging systems. Do you have a battery parallel device?

[hint – learn basic mechanical and electrical concepts and maintenance procedures, perform active preventative maintenance]

From an insurance claim standpoint most policies require the owner/operator to mitigate damage after any “event”. In other words, stop the damage from getting worse. This may be compensable, even if the claim is denied. In any event, prevention of further damage makes $ense, so wash off the salt water, air out the smoke and clean up that fire extinguisher you discharged into the saloon.

It is accepted in the maritime community that practicing for emergencies helps deals with real ones. Hopefully, this article has stimulated some thought about your emergency plans. If you have not done one of the following items in some time perhaps you should…

• Test, service or replace your alarms
• Perform a man overboard drill
• Test and prove your bilge pumps
• Replace your flares
• Service or replace your fire extinguishers
• Replace or update your first aid kit
• Buy a book about treating medical emergencies at sea

This article was edited on February 29, 2016.

Ten Ideas for Spring Commissioning

March 20, 2012March 9, 2016marineadmin

In Southern California we don’t have to winterize our boats and thus in spring we don’t have to de-winterize, or un-winterize… we don’t even know the word for it. However, most of us So-Cal boaters use our vessels much less over the bitter, cold winter and come the 70 degree February days, we once again start planning the Catalina trip or start thinking about fishing. Here is a top ten list of items to check, after the thaw, at the beginning of the boating season.

10. Service the engines, transmissions/drives (and generator), fluids and filters, tune up (gasoline), rack set or injector s (diesel) and change the zinc anodes in the heat exchangers and coolers. Any leaks?

9. Check the shore power cord and inlet for heat damage, wear and provide strain relief on the cord.

8. Service below waterline components, bottom paint, rudders, trim tabs, zincs, cutlass bearings.

7. Test and service the high water alarm.

6. Check and service the engine’s cooling system, raw water pump and impeller and exhaust (water and exhaust gas) system. Again, any leaks? But don’t worry, if you ignore these they will remind you later.

5. Safety or carriage items (most are legally required), life jackets/PFDs (proper size, type and stored in the proper location), flares (every 3.5 years), fire extinguishers (yearly inspection, five year replacement or certification), horn, placards, stickers. What do “they” check for when they board?

4. Bilge pumps and automatic/float switches

3. Check and service rudder and propeller shaft seals. Repack traditional packing glands, service dripless shaft seals (yes they require maintenance too).

2. Personnel safety alarms – carbon monoxide alarms, smoke alarms, gasoline and propane vapor alarms. At least press the test buttons, make sure the wire is connected, replace any batteries and replace the units every five years.

1. Batteries, check them all for condition, replace before they become a problem and ruin your first spring trip.

And for the “one to grow on” idea, what about adding one new safety item every spring, how about emergency wooden dowel plugs, a VHF with emergency position emitter, or a crank type flashlight.

How to prepare for a marine survey

February 17, 2012March 9, 2016marineadmin

Marine surveying is a niche trade. Marine surveyors inspect ships, cargo, boats and yachts. Christian & Company works primarily on boats and yachts. We assist with damage claims, we provide litigation support and we perform the type of survey with which most boaters are familiar – condition and valuation inspections (C & V). With respect to C & V’s, one of the most common questions we field is “how do I prepare for the survey?”

The preparation varies slightly for pre-purchase surveys versus insurance/financial surveys, but in general it is the same. Maintain the boat. If you are interested in further specifics, continue reading.

Prior to survey, the vessel should be open, all storage compartments should be unlocked and all spaces should be accessible. Boats being surveyed for purchase should be emptied and cleaned. Boats being surveyed for other purposes should be de-cluttered, and cabins and lockers should not be stuffed full of personal effects, sports equipment, spare parts or sails. Alternatively, providing the surveyor with assistance in unpacking the lazarette or the quarter berth, which hold ten years of swap meet acquired treasures is not only appreciated, but adds to efficiency. In extreme cases, areas are not accessible (hoarders can live on boats too) and the result is incomplete inspections.

It is important that vessels being surveyed for purchase have easily accessible storage spaces and bilge; fifteen deteriorated life jackets provide no benefit. We also suggest that sellers have their vessels cleaned both internally and externally. Many vessels are purchased by couples and at least one partner will notice the dull finish, dirty floor and waste odor. Ventilate the boat, eliminate the mould and don’t leave the exterior cushions soaking wet.

Ideally the engines have been maintained and function normally. At a minimum the engines should start, the engine controls should function and the steering wheel should turn the rudder.

Common mechanical short comings are hard starting engines, high exhaust smoke opacity, cooling system problems noted by spiking temperatures at high rpms and inability to obtain designed wide open throttle rpms. Many conditions leading to these problems can be avoided with normal and prudent maintenance and since the buyer or insurance company will likely require these deficiencies to be addressed, you may as well do it before the survey.

Other mechanical problems which are commonly found during surveys are leaking propeller shaft seals, improperly functional or improperly maintained steering systems, stiff, broken or abandoned controls and inoperative bilge pumps. Addressing any and all of these deficiencies prior to the inspection will result in a cleaner report and a better chance for the sale, insuring or finance of the boat.
Dead, dry or cracked batteries are a huge problem during a survey. Not only are the condition of the batteries and the charging system brought into question, but inadequate DC power can lead to numerous other electrical problems and the general inability to test components. Batteries should be tested, serviced and charged prior to the survey. A boat that has half of the lights not functioning does not reflect well on the owner and the maintenance program. Take an hour and change the bulbs before the survey.

Service any problems with significant electronics prior to the survey or disclose the problem in advance. We have witnessed the enthusiasm drain from many a potential buyer after the fifth or sixth time when they were told “well it worked last time”.

By far, the most common findings on surveys are deficiencies in the legal carriage items and safety equipment. Buy some new flares, service or replace the fire extinguishers and make sure that the navigational lights and horn are functional. Not only are these legal requirements, they are absolutely necessary for the safe operation of a vessel. O.K., flares may only be necessary in an emergency, but they are relatively inexpensive.

For pre-purchase surveys, we strongly encourage owners to perform “pre-trials”. A week or two prior to the survey and the sea trial, take the boat for a test run and check for all the things mentioned. Go to the electrical distribution panel, energize and test the components, heat the water and make some ice, put the ice in a glass, pour yourself a drink and congratulate yourself for being a prudent owner. You will inevitably have found a component or two that requires service or replacement and you will now have time to address these issues or minimally disclose them and diffuse the power of surprise that can detrimentally affect the sale of the vessel.

On larger vessels with more complicated systems, the same concept applies to the systems. The tender should be test operated, the batteries should be charged and the fuel replaced. Perhaps the carburetor requires service if the outboard engine was not run dry when it was last used.

Service the water maker and make it ready to use or check with the broker or potential buyer to see if the water maker is of concern.

Ask the broker about the buyer’s interests and potential usage of the vessel. If she is a fisherman, prove the bait system. If he is a fisherman, stock the refrigerator.

This article was edited on February 29, 2016.

Managing a Claim

January 20, 2012May 9, 2023marineadmin

This is a follow up to our newsletter article entitled “When to file a boat insurance claim”. In the previous article we discussed various types of coverage on boat insurance policies to raise awareness of benefits provided by a boat insurance policy. The article was a real thrill ride; you can read it on our web site – themarinesurveyors.com

Once an insurance claim is filed you have certain responsibilities and rights. Filing a boat insurance claim is rare and many of the insureds and claimants, with whom we deal, have had no prior experience with a boat claim and very limited experience with any insurance claim. Once you fulfill your obligations you deserve a relatively smooth and timely process to the completion of the claim.

To file a claim simply contact your agent or insurance company. Your agent may be an independent agent or an employee of the insurance company. Either way contacting them will begin the process and they will request information, your job is to provide the information in a timely manner.

In California and many states, the handling of a marine insurance claim is governed by the Fair Claims Settlement Practices Regulations or Fair Claims Act, designed to protect consumers. As long as the policy is written by an admitted California insurance carrier (versus a non admitted or surplus lines carrier), the policy holder is covered by this law. The law assures the policy holder a fair assessment, fair settlement offer and a well defined time line. Basically the Fair Claims Act requires the insurance company to investigate and decide coverage within thirty days of the date the claim was filed. If the claim is covered it requires the insurance company to pay the claim in full, based on the contract of insurance, preventing insurance companies from making low ball offers for settlement. It requires the insurance carrier to either deny the claim or provide the insured with a reservation of rights (ROR) letter. The ROR letter must detail the reasons for a possible denial, and must be sent as soon as the adjuster becomes aware that the claim may be denied, if the investigation is not completed to the point where they can issue a denial letter. The denial letter must be in writing and reference the specific policy language which is the basis for the denial.

The Fair Claims Act also provides an easy option for an insured who feels they have been treated unfairly. The insured can file a complaint with the state’s department of insurance and the claim will be reviewed at no cost to the insured. A complaint is a thorn in the adjuster’s side, and most adjusters prefer to avoid the process.

So, what are your obligations after filing a claim? In general it is the insured’s responsibility to “prove their claim”. To begin the claim process, contact your insurance agent or the claims contact number on the policy and provide the information requested. From the beginning, document your activities including date of initial and subsequent phone calls and name of contact. Obtain a claim number, telephone number and e-mail address for your adjuster. We recommend an immediate follow up to the initial call via an e-mail to the adjuster and/or agent. The fair claims clock begins ticking with the first contact with the agent or claims department.
With no extenuating circumstances the insurance company has thirty days from the date you filed the claim to determine coverage.

Expect to be asked a series of questions regarding the history of the vessel, maintenance relevant to the loss, event details and a description of the damage.

It is your obligation to provide honest and factual answers. It is not your obligation to be a boat repair professional, mechanic, electrician or forensic engineer. You do not need to know exactly why your engine failed, what object you ran over or how the fire started. You simply need to provide answers to questions to the best of your ability. You may be asked to write a “master’s statement”; if so, just provide the basic facts, in writing, expediently.

Immediately after any accident, act as a prudent uninsured. In other words, take immediate actions which you would take if you did not have insurance, mitigate (minimize) the damage as possible. Most insurance policies require the boat owner to mitigate the damage and the cost of mitigating actions are usually compensable, sometimes even if the claim itself is denied. Either way it is your boat and prudent actions will save your time and money. The classic example of mitigating damage is when an engine suffers water damage internally or externally. There are clear and well known mechanical procedures to mitigate this damage and they should be initiated immediately as time is of the essence in this type of loss.

The determining factor in coverage is the cause of loss. As discussed in the prior newsletter article the various sections of your policy provide coverage for a multitude of events while also excluding a multitude of events. It is the cause of the damage which is the crucial factor in determination of coverage. Sudden, accidental and fortuitous events are generally covered. Wear, tear and gradual deterioration are generally not covered.

You, as the insured, should expect an explanation of the process including the steps the adjuster requires to determine the cause of loss. This may include an inspection by an independent marine surveyor or specialist in the type of damage to your boat. It may require discovery, or some type of destructive inspection process or disassembly. This cost is often covered by the insurance company; we suggest prior written communication to establish who is responsible for any charges in the “discovery” process. This prevents surprises.

In order to facilitate the payment of a covered loss, you will need to choose a repair facility and obtain an estimate for the repair. We recommend choosing an established, reliable repairer. Their timely preparation of an estimate is crucial in the claim process and their timely and professional completion of the repairs is critical to the continuation of your boating enjoyment. Choose a repairer known for staying within budget; overruns lead to headaches and can usually be avoided.

Once you have received an estimate, forward it quickly to your claims adjuster. They can’t pay a claim unless they know how much to pay. Review the estimate for completeness and make sure all damage is addressed. At this point we suggest an e-mail to the adjuster to confirm they have received all documents required to handle the claim. They may have still need maintenance records, sales receipts, a master’s statement or statements from witnesses. Make sure you have complied with all their requests. This will prevent further delays, which may be caused by loose ends.

At this point it is the insurance adjuster’s responsibility to process your claim expeditiously. Though it is sometimes omitted, we prefer the adjusters provide an explanation of the claims payment. A synopsis of the basis of the payment including approved estimate repair amounts and applicable deductible and depreciation is crucial in to the proper explanation of the claim settlement. On first party (your insurance) property damage claims you will have a deductible and there may be depreciation applied (read your policy). Depreciation is a reduction in the payout based on the age and/or condition of the damaged components. An older engine or sail which need replacement may not be paid for completely. Some policies and some components are not depreciated and thus are paid for on a “new for old” basis. If you are pursuing a liability claim (another party’s insurance), you will not have a deductible, but depreciation will almost always apply.

Once you have received payment it is your choice as to how to have the repairs completed. Depending on the severity of the damage and the extent of repair necessary, you may have numerous options. In case of severe damage, which limits the continued insurability of the vessel, you may be required to complete all of the necessary repairs. This may be required by either the insurance company or by a lender. Any lien holder named on the insurance policy will often be named on the settlement check.

Claims involving large amounts of money are heavily scrutinized by claims departments. They will look carefully at all aspects of the claim and they will review your insurance application. It is imperative that your application is filled out completely, honestly and accurately. Any false information or omission on an application can lead to a policy rescission (cancellation). If the policy is rescinded, you get back your insurance premium, but no claim payment. Don’t embellish your experience or omit a prior claim on the application.

If you have an idea that an event may be a covered insurance claim, contact your agent immediately. The agent may advise you to hold off on the filing of the claim (with the carrier) until some further determination is made, but you will prevent future coverage issues by quickly contacting the agent. Do not initiate repairs and alter or discard the crucial components prior to allowing the insurance company an opportunity to inspect the damage, as this will create problems. It is only fair that the insurance company be allowed the opportunity to inspect critical components. They may have coverage issues or subrogation (an ability to recover their loss) potential that can’t be addressed or pursued without an inspection. Thus the contract of insurance provides them rights as well. It is unfortunate when an otherwise covered loss is claimed after repairs are completed but the claim is denied because the insurance company’s rights have been compromised.

There are insurance companies that write directly, usually communicating via telephone from a central national location. There are insurance companies that write through agents, who are often located in your home city. While there are examples of both good and not so good insurance companies writing directly or through agents, a local, knowledgeable and helpful agent is invaluable during the claim’s process. This type of policy may be more expensive, but during the claim’s process the premium is well earned.

All claims are not covered and that is the nature of the business. However, since a few ship owners developed this concept of insurance at a coffee shop in London, marine insurance claim payments have helped a myriad of boat owners manage their risks associated with vessel ownership and reduce the stress arising from boat accidents.

Christian & Company Marine Surveyors got their start in marine damage claims and continues to be active in this process. We represent insurance carriers, boat owners, repair facilities and various interested parties in the process.

Please keep Christian & Company in mind if we can be of assistance and help in the process of recovery from any accident or damage to your vessel.

This article was edited on February 29, 2016.

When to File a Boat Insurance Claim

December 16, 2011March 9, 2016marineadmin

While brain-storming with our assistant, Ms. Anna Rosvall, on subject matter for a newsletter, she suggested this subject. As we have been assisting with marine insurance claims for over two decades, she thought we could write something that would be informative, helpful and interesting. Well, two out of three is not bad.

Along with every insurance policy issued is a declarations page. The declarations page identifies the insured, the vessel, the inception date (most policies are annual), the policy number and the various details of coverage and policy limits. The policy which follows the declarations details the various coverage provided and is very useful if battling insomnia. Compared to an insurance policy this article is a “thriller.”

Review of a declarations page from a major player in the boat insurance market revealed nine separate coverage areas. They include: property, liability, pollution, medical, tender, personal effects/sport equipment, towing, uninsured boaters and longshoremen/harbor workers. Most policies will not include all of these options and a review of your policy may reveal an unexpected exposure. An understanding of the coverage will allow you to utilize your policy better.

The appropriate time to file an insurance policy varies depending on the policy, coverage and the event details. Some decisions are easy: IF – your boat burns, sinks or is involved in an accident, THEN – you file a claim. If a guest falls and is seriously injured; file a claim. But, what if your engine fails?

The most often used portion of boat insurance policies is the property damage coverage. It provides coverage for damage to the boat itself. The property damage portion of the policy includes a deductible. Deductibles vary and are often a percentage of the boat’s value and are the amount the insured will pay toward any covered loss, prior to the insurance company’s contribution. If the property damage loss is less than or equal to the deductible, there is no benefit to filing a claim. If in doubt get a repair estimate prior to filing a claim.

Damage to a boat’s engine is addressed under the property damage section of the policy. It is an area of coverage that is often misunderstood. Most recreational vessel insurance policies are “all risk”, versus “named peril” as is the case for many commercial policies. An “all risk” policy provides coverage for virtually any cause of loss, except those causes which are specifically excluded. Thus, many insurance claims on engine failures are covered. While there are policies which exclude mechanical break down, filing a claim for an expensive engine repair is generally worth the potential, limited downside. We are continually amazed at what is covered with respect to engine claims.

For a most interesting conversation ask your dock buddies if the damage to your boat or engine is covered by insurance. This subject is second only to corrosion for the prevalence of misinformation.

Another benefit of a boat insurance policy is the ability to shift responsibility for primary payment and recovery if your boat is damaged by a third party. A classic example is when a vessel is damaged in transit on a truck or a ship. While the shipping company may be liable for the damage, pursuing and obtaining payment is often difficult. By filing a claim with your own insurance carrier, they will assume the responsibility for payment of the repair invoice and recovery from the responsible party (called subrogation in the industry).

Another area with surprising benefits is undiscovered or latent defects in the vessel. A latent defect is: a flaw or other imperfection in any article which is discovered after delivery; usually, latent defects are inherent weaknesses which normally are not detected by examination or routine tests, but which are present at time of manufacture and are aggravated by use. (McGraw-Hill Science & Technology Dictionary)

While some policies will exclude latent defects and the damage resulting from the defects, others will provide coverage for resulting damage, which is often the most significant cost of the repair.

As a general rule of thumb the property damage portion of the policy covers sudden, accidental and fortuitous events and excludes normal wear and tear.

The liability coverage on your policy protects you from exposure from claims filed by others arising out of the ownership, operation and maintenance of your vessel. Basically this coverage requires negligence on your part and financial damages arising from personal injury or properly damage to an uninsured party, but may also cover such things as loss of income or loss of use suffered by a third party. This is the coverage in the policy which will pay for your legal expenses for defense and any judgment, up to the limit of your policy. We strongly encourage you to exercise this benefit rather than face any potential law suit personally. It reduces stress and in the unfortunate, but far too common event of a law suit, it is why you paid your premium.

The medical coverage or “med pay” portion of your policy does not require negligence on your part. It provides payment for cost for medical care arising from almost any injury aboard your vessel. Virtually all policies cover your guests though some exclude the owners specifically and most exclude paid professionals. It has been our experience that adjusters are very liberal in disbursing funds from the “med pay” portion of the policy, as it is an easy way to prevent personal injury lawsuits. In most cases it should be offered up with no hesitation, though the limit is low it establishes “good will” quickly.

Paid professionals are generally expected to carry their own insurance and are often covered under the Jones Act, a marine equivalent to worker’s compensation. If you wish to cover professionals on your vessel you may purchase longshoremen and harbor workers coverage, referred to as LS & H.

Pollution is an ever growing area of coverage on boat insurance policies. While some policies may exclude the cost to clean up the pollution and the fines related to it, others will provide specific coverage, separate from the liability protections. Not only is it a good idea to keep oil in the engine, discharged oil is bad for the environment and your bank account.

The property damage portion of your boat insurance policy generally covers property that is normally aboard the vessel and used for the operation and maintenance of the vessel exclusively. It does not cover personal effects such as jewelry, laptops and sporting equipment. While this type of property may be adequately covered by your homeowners insurance, it is wise to discuss any components of value which are brought aboard the vessel with your agent. High value art work aboard mega yachts is often covered by specific riders for that piece of art.

Small boats, including trailer boats and tenders, often have separate coverage and thus opportunities for claims, which are different from larger yachts. Outboard engines are often covered separately, with their own deductible. Trailers are almost always covered separately, though a skilled negotiator may persuade the adjuster to buy the trailer along with the “totaled boat”. Every spring we see several claims resulting from small boats filling from winter rain water. Many of these are covered losses. A tender on a larger boat usually has a much smaller deductible and thus filing a claim for a smaller amount may still provide relatively significant benefit.

Uninsured boaters coverage is an option offered by many underwriters. While some carriers use this coverage only for excess medical expenses, others may allow this coverage to waive your deductible for property damage caused by an uninsured boater. If you have this coverage, don’t forget to request its benefits, which may be overlooked by your busy adjuster.

There is very little downside to filing an insurance claim. The worst outcome is generally a denial. Being told “no” and not receiving compensation for the financial exposure is generally worth any loss of your “no claim discount”. Many policies provide a “no claim discount” upon issuance of a policy; some provide a similar discount upon renewal. The loss of this credit is miniscule compared to the amount of the average claim. Multiple claims, however, can result in difficulty in obtaining insurance and cancellation of a policy.

Stay tuned for an exciting follow up, “How to file and manage a boat insurance claim”.

This article was edited on February 26, 2016.

How to steal a boat

November 18, 2011March 9, 2016marineadmin

Do you want to learn how? Of course you do, even if you would never do it, it’s fun to read about. This article will give you some tips on how to steal a boat…. legally. Legalized theft, or buying boats for pennies (okay maybe dimes) on the dollar, is happening, so how is it done?

Wikipedia defines fair market value as follows:

Fair market value (FMV) is an estimate of the market value of a property, based on what a knowledgeable, willing, and unpressured buyer would probably pay to a knowledgeable, willing, and unpressured seller in the market

To steal a boat, a normal factor in the sales process has to be different. The seller has to be motivated and the buyer has to find the seller. The most common factor that allows one to steal a boat is financial distress on the part of the seller. There are a myriad of reasons for financial distress, particularly in the past few years! There are many other factors that result in low sales prices as well and there are a few companies specializing in selling boats in “distressed situations”.

Some boats are deals because few people know they are for sale. There are owners who refuse to pay brokers’ fees and create their own web sites or use lesser known listing sites. Google/Yahoo/Bing searching and internet farming will lead to some of these sites. Tip: Use a skilled broker to acquire the fair market value for a boat you are trying to sell.

Some boats are on the more popular listing sites, such as Yachtworld, but have incorrect information, reducing the size of the potential buying market. Wrong or lesser known manufacturer, wrong year, length, and even the wrong price is sometimes listed. Think about the wide range of names use for many boats, including the builder, importer, designer, model or common nick name. While these are “rookie” mistakes, there are a few rookies out there and a veteran shopper may be able to capitalize on these situations.

Deals are often possible before boats make it to a listing site or are listed by a broker and some deals are made after the boat has been listed for an inordinate amount of time and the seller has tired of the process and the burdens of ownership. “Low ball” offers on boats that have been for sale for a long period of time are occasionally accepted.

Life changes often result in boats available at a discount. An abandoned dream of sailing around the world, a divorce, the dissolution of a partnership and death are all great tragedies for some and opportunities for others. Boats for sale as a result of these types of events will often be sold to individuals who become aware of the circumstance soon after it occurs and are able to act quickly. A wide network helps locate these boats, so if you are looking for a deal, don’t keep it a secret. The more people that know you are looking the more likely a deal will be revealed to you.

Donated boats for sale are possible deals. Though laws changed a few years ago reducing the number of these opportunities, some remain. Boats of lower value or ones that the donor actually is giving the boat away (versus those who give as a better financial option to selling) can be had at a bargain. Some of these deals require a two year lease with an option to buy, and are appropriate for buyers who desire a particular boat and plan to keep it for several years. This is no longer a viable option for “flippers”, or those who want to buy and sell quickly for profit.

There are deals to be had on damaged boats, often for sale by insurance companies after a constructive total loss. There are numerous individual boats sold by countless insurance companies and marine surveyors, to find them one needs to network extensively and be patient. Then there are a few large companies specializing in this type of sale, they include Copart, Certified Sales, and Cooper Capital. All are easily found online. Tip: A stolen and recovered boat often has very little damage but still can be purchased at a huge discount due to the circumstances. Damaged boats present challenges best undertaken by people experienced in the repair industry or people who are “handy” and like to fiddle with projects.

Many boats are being sold on Craig’s List and other online markets such as Ebay. Some boats are sold by marinas and various marine companies as lien sales. There are various governmental auctions and Marshall’s sales, most are publicized on the internet. Don’t forget your due diligence (not so subtle plug for a good marine surveyor) and these sites can lead to a bargain.

And finally the most voluminous source of deals in today’s market: repossessed boats. There are many banks that sell only a few boats and utilize a wide variety of outlets to sell them. These boats can be found in all the nooks and crannies of boat selling websites and brokerages. Then there are a few companies that specialize in selling “repos”. Among these businesses are several with a Southern California presence, including: Long Beach Yacht Sales, Grande Yachts, National Liquidators and Brokaw Yacht Sales.

To utilize these companies effectively one should understand some of the underlying factors. Many of the boats are sold quickly, so be ready to act. Know what you want: a specific type of boat or a smoking hot deal. Have your budget or funding source established and if you see a boat that interests you, don’t take long to make your offer. Realize that some of these businesses are deluged with interest (phone calls, emails and walk-ins) and thus customer service is not what it might be at a more traditional brokerage. If you are seriously in the market, let the contact person at the business know in no uncertain terms.

Also realize that the discount doesn’t come without a catch. You don’t get the benefit of disclosure of problems, events of significance (submersions, collisions, etc…) or maintenance history. Many repo boats were not well maintained prior to being repossessed.

Bob Brokaw of Brokaw Yacht Sales is active in selling repo boats and he advises that a buyer utilize a broker familiar with the process. He also suggests that any potential buyer, who is remote from the boat, hire a qualified local representative local to perform a “walk through” prior to incurring any significant expense in the buying process. The sheer volume of repo boats handled by some companies precludes them from getting to know the boats well. Thus if you have an agree price on a boat that is a plane flight away, having a quick inspection to let you know if there is an easily detected significant deficiency can save you the airfare (and valuable time) or let you modify your offer before incurring the expense of travel and/or a detailed marine survey.

So how do you steal a boat?

Broaden your network
Prepare and act quickly
Use due diligence

How to Buy Boat Insurance

October 22, 2011March 9, 2016marineadmin

Insuring your boat to protect your investment is a sound idea, however in certain circumstances you may need to insure your boat; lenders and marinas often require insurance. Protecting hard-earned assets from liability exposure due to property damage or personal injury, which can occur as a consequence of boat ownership, is prudent.

When you want or need to buy boat insurance, how do you shop and compare boat insurance policies?

The most common comparison is price. If you never have a claim, price is the best comparison. However, there are many other factors, which should be considered.

As with a new suit, the basic fit of the policy is crucial. Your policy must cover your intended use, navigation area, season, winter storage, and overland transportation, as applicable. It is foolish to buy a suit that does not fit, no matter how good it looks on the rack; and it is foolish to buy an insurance policy that does not cover the vessel and your liability exposure during the entire policy year.

Once you determine the size of the suit, you need to decide the color and style. In shopping for boat insurance, the most prudent shopper reads each prospective policy. As this suggestion is at least, as tedious as it is comical, here are some tips.

How are claims paid?

Total losses are paid based on either agreed value or actual cash value. Total losses on agreed value policies pay the declared value, or value agreed to by your insurance agent, or underwriter and you at policy inception. Total losses on actual cash value polices are paid based on a value established post casualty. This value is often established by a marine surveyor hired by the insurance company. While actual cash value policies may be less expensive, a total loss can lead to significant and unwanted negotiations with your insurance adjuster.

Claims are also paid as partial loss claims. Partial loss claims are much more common than total losses. There are a wide variety of clauses that govern partial losses. When shopping boat insurance, the most important aspect of the partial loss payment clause is what components are depreciable/actual cash value versus non-depreciable/new-for-old. Most policies will depreciate sails, canvas, upholstery, and fabric. Many policies will depreciate external finishes, engines, and outdrives. Some policies pay actual cash value or apply depreciation to everything. In the case of a partial loss on an older boat, depreciation can significantly reduce your recovery.

Discern what is covered. Most boat insurance policies are “All Risk”. This means that virtually every loss is covered, unless it is specifically excluded in the policy. Whether the exclusions are in the form of responsibilities, insuring conditions or specifically stated exclusions, insurance companies generally require normal and prudent maintenance. Specific exclusions generally include wear and tear, gradual deterioration, corrosion, and lack of maintenance. Some policies exclude mechanical breakdown, freezing damage, and latent defects.

In conclusion, to choose what boat insurance policy to purchase, consider price, basic coverage and total/partial loss payment methods. There are other “bells and whistles”. Some policy options include personal effects coverage (check limits), towing (check limits), uninsured boaters coverage, pollution/fine coverage, and deductible amounts.

Another important decision when buying insurance is making the choice between a local independent agent or “a direct writer” with whom correspondence is generally by mail and telephone. The difference is analogous to buying a suit from Nordstrom or Nordstrom Rack. The suit from Nordstrom comes with a helpful and courteous professional; Nordstrom Rack offers a better price. Both sell quality products. The local marine insurance agent can perform that tedious process of reading, screening and clarifying the policies, and therefore provide the best fit, color and style. An independent agent can assist if and when a claim arises. This local assistance, personal service and expertise comes with a premium. Direct writers offer discounted rates that can be significant.

Local independent insurance agencies represent many insurance carriers. Most of the carriers represented by the independent agents are domestic (USA companies) and many are regulated by the California Department of Insurance.

Some insurance agencies carry specialty lines of insurance, which are most applicable to unusual vessels, extended navigation limits and commercial risks. Some of these specialty line carriers may not be domestic or regulated by the California Department of Insurance. However, if the agent is trustworthy, the risk of buying an “unregulated” policy is small and many “special needs” can be met.

An unusual survey aka a fall story

September 16, 2011May 9, 2023marineadmin

Part of our normal business is assisting with insurance claims, many of which result from accidents. There are ”normal accidents”, like groundings, collisions, allisions (when only one boat is moving), fires, trailering accidents and then there are the freak accidents. This is about one of the latter, an extremely unusual boating accident.

I will begin by relieving your anxiety: nobody died! There were two men aboard at the time, one had almost no injuries (call me lucky) and the other was bruised but recovered quickly. Fortunately no one was under the boat.

The story begins with a client asking us to survey a boat in San Carlos, Mexico. This is a coastal city on the northeast side of the Sea of Cortez, on the mainland, near the city of Guymas. The client had a 55’ Californian power boat and needed a marine survey for insurance renewal purposes. The author traveled to the boat and accomplished the survey, it had been hauled by an amazing hydraulic trailer, on a boat ramp, normally used for much smaller boats with much smaller trailers. Prior to my arrival, it had been blocked beside the boat ramp in a dirt lot.

While I was surveying the power boat, the owner of a 38’ Globe, full keeled cruising sailboat, which was blocked beside the powerboat, asked if I would be able to survey his boat as well. He also required a marine survey for insurance. He was planning a world cruise and was applying for insurance through Lloyds of London. I accepted the job as it was clearly a win – win opportunity for all.

After completing the inspection of the powerboat, I began the inspection of the sailboat. I began on the bottom; bottom painting was in progress. After inspecting the bottom, we climbed a ladder and inspected the deck. The owner was with me and after inspecting the deck, I followed him into the cabin, that’s when the accident occurred.

Not the same boat, but you get the picture

I was still on the steps in the companionway, leading from the deck down into the saloon. The owner was on the starboard side of the saloon when I felt a shudder and then it happened….the boat fell.

It fell to port. It landed hard on its port side and the masts wrapped over the adjacent powerboat. My client fell to the port side of the saloon and all matter of debris rained down upon him. I was very lucky and steadied myself in the companionway, watching him become buried and then emerge from all of the large and small bits which had been dumped on top of him. My first concern was his safety and health. He later said he felt like he just played a game of tackle football, but he had no broken bones, no concussion, and no serious injury. Our concern then was the bottom painters, and we quickly scrambled out to check. Everyone was unharmed.

The painters had moved the jack stands improperly and the boat shifted, allowing the jack stands to slide up the hull and the boat to crash down.

That evening I received two phone calls in my hotel room. One from each boat’s insurance company, asking if I could assist with the damage claims. I accepted the first assignment, but was unable to help the second one professionally, due to a potential conflict of interest. The adjuster was a friend and long time client. She teased me for years about going down to Mexico and knocking a boat over to get work.
The call to the powerboat owner was interesting, I told him I had some good news and some bad news. The good news was the boat was in good shape; the bad news was that there were two aluminum masts wrapped over the top of it.

The sailboat was repaired and was one of the only boats I have been involved with that was “re-gelcoated” on one entire side. Gelcoat goes on smooth in a mold, but is very rough when applied externally like paint. It required several hundred labor hours to make it shiny again, but shiny it was and the world cruise was accomplished.

The lesson I learned was the importance of safety in the workplace and boatyard. There is a proper way to block and secure boats while hauled. There are dangers and we should all be aware of them, not just falling boats, but slippery surfaces, trip hazards, electricity, etc… The accident happened in Mexico at a very rudimentary haulout and blocking area, no pavement or concrete, no travel lift and no chains in use between jack stands, but even in the technologically advanced area of Southern California, boats fall and accidents happen.

This article was edited on February 29, 2016.

Simplified Boat Appraising

August 19, 2011March 9, 2016marineadmin

As professional marine surveyors we appraise boats daily. We follow professional standards and appraisal methodologies, but basically we look at comparable boats’ listing and reported selling prices and compare the subject boat to the comps. This appraisal method is formally referred to as market value analysis and the value is often called the fair market value or actual cash value. While it is important for us to follow the method and protocol, it is not necessary for you and the basic methodology is relatively simple and will provide your with a good idea of the value of your boat.

Boat values are required when a boat is sold, banks like to know values for loans, insurance companies use values when underwriting policies, and various others want to know how much your boat is worth, including your soon to be “ex”. If you would like to get a good idea of its value, here are some simple tips.

The most helpful information used to evaluate the boat is the basic specifications. Manufacturer, year, length, model, size and type of engines and major upgrades or accessories. The make, year and length will provide the basic search criteria, but different models and engines can result in a large range of values. You may be amazed at the range of values between a flybridge versus an express model or diesel versus gasoline engines.

Once you know the basic specifications search for comparable boats’ listing prices. The most common electronic multiple listing sites are Yachtworld and Boat Trader. These two sites handle a majority of the boats that are being advertised for sale and are your best bet for finding the most comparable boats for sale. Yachtworld is the brokers’ site and will generally have larger and more expensive boats. Boat Trader is populated by private parties and trailer boat brokers. (Have you noticed the Trader magazines have disappeared from the racks at the convenience stores and are strictly internet publications now.)

You can also do a Google search for your boat for sale and find numerous outlets and additional information. There are a multitude of lesser known web sites and many specialize in specific types of boats, performance boats, house boats, trawlers, and even mega-yachts (YachtCouncil.com). There are also boat value sites such as BUC, ABOS, NADA that provide valuations, some for a fee.

A search tip: search for boats a year older and a year newer, after about five years condition becomes more important that age and searching a year older or newer will provide more comps. If you have a very high production boat, you can probably stick to your model year. If you are searching a limited production boat, you may have to use a multiple year range. If you have an extremely rare boat, you may have to include other similar brands of boats in your search.

Boats have model years just like cars, 2012 boats are already for sale. Since 1984 the last three digits of the hull identification number (HIN) indicate the year of production and model year. A new boat with HIN ending 112 was built in 2011 but is a 2012 model year. A HIN ending with 111 was built in 2011 and is a 2011 model year.

Another search tip: try using a broader length range. Some listings will have length data entered with actual length overall and some will have lengths that have unknown origins. The “340” model may in fact be 34 feet long, or it may be 38, including the bow plank and swim platform. Remember you are searching with a computer, a human entered the data, and another human is searching the data. The computer works precisely, it is not your spouse and does not know what you are trying to communicate. Sometimes one of the humans misspells the manufacturer or puts the length in the year field.

If you can gather a dozen or so comparable boats listing prices, you can establish a fairly accurate value. The better the comps, the better the evaluation. We use to average these asking prices and deduct ten percent for the built in “negotiating buffer”, however the listing prices have not recessed as much as the selling prices in the past three years, and a twenty to twenty five percent reduction from the asking price is not uncommon in today’s market.

A better data base includes reported sales prices, not just listing prices. These proprietary data bases are generally not available to the boating public, but are available to sales professionals and marine surveyors. While these data bases are not as accurate as the recorded sales prices for real estate, they do provide more useful sales data.

If you are planning on selling your boat, ask your broker for their opinion of value, they are very capable of this task and will do it as part of their service to you. If you need a professional appraisal, most institutions will request a marine survey and many will require an “accredited” marine surveyor, in an attempt to legitimize the appraisal. The surveyor will likely provide a market value analysis and should keep a copy of the research in their file or include the comparables in the report, to support their opinion.

Choosing a marine tradesman

July 15, 2011March 9, 2016marineadmin

Your boat has a problem and you need a mechanic, electrician, carpenter, diver, painter or marine surveyor. You are new to boating, the area, or your favorite surveyor just won the lottery and is not returning your calls. What do you do?

Unfortunately I have found many less than professional individuals plying the marine trades. There are ways to reduce your frustration, wasted time and wasted money.

One simple method of searching for a tradesperson is the internet, which has replaced most telephone books and written directories (but they still exist). The internet is convenient, easy to use and will always provide an answer. While there are some sites which vet trades people, this option is limited in the marine trades. The internet however, is very useful in finding brand specific service providers for your specific engine or refrigerator.

Word of mouth from neighboring boat owners is another way to find a repair man. Again your boating neighbor is convenient and easy to access, however their scope of knowledge regarding the specific skill set is likely limited and follow up questions should be asked to assure their problem and the repairer’s skills are similar to your problem and the skill set it requires. On the other hand, if your boating neighbor has negative endorsements, no follow up is required.

One of the most effective methods of finding a good repair person is soliciting referrals. Sources for referrals include boat brokers, boat yards, and marine professionals, such as surveyors, with broad based exposure to the trade and other tradesmen. A mechanic who services an alternate brand of engine may provide very useful reference information for your brand or a marine electrician from one city may provide a name for an electrician in another location.

A combination of these techniques and additional research will provide useful information. Consider the tradesman’s qualifications and certifications, time in trade and specific experience with your problem. Qualifications are provided by manufacturers and include designations such as dealer, distributor or warranty provider. Certifications are provided by various industry organizations including the American Boat & Yachting Council (A.B.Y.C.). While written designations and qualifications do not guarantee professionalism by the tradesmen, they are helpful in the decision process. Once you narrow the field, discussing these issues with the potential vendors allows you to “size them up”; a short discussion about the issue will surely give you insight into their experience, knowledge and ability to help you.

As marine surveyors we are often asked if we are members of professional associations, as membership in these associations are required by many financial and insurance underwriters. While this is a minimum requirement, we still suggest vetting our trade by speaking with a few other professionals in the industry (reputations are usually earned) and perhaps reviewing reports (work product for other trades is harder to review).

For those of you who have been boating for way too long for the above suggestions to be helpful, here are some more advanced considerations in your vetting of service providers. Is your service provider licensed and insured? Licenses for most marine trades are generally limited to local business licenses; insurance on the other hand varies widely and can be important. Sophisticated buyers, such as boat yards and marinas, not only require specific types and limits of insurance but demand to be added as additional insured on policies. While this may be beyond the norm for the boat owner, a copy of a valid insurance policy is fairly simple to obtain.

Another sophisticated consideration in choosing a marine tradesperson is the contract terms. While many of us sign contracts without careful consideration, reviewing of the terms is prudent. Some contracts state that the boat owner has agreed to release the vendor from damage caused as the result of the work performed and even indemnify the vendor from claims resulting from the service. As always reading the contract before signing it is advisable. Anticipating that a contract may be required and requesting it in advance will provide you the time to review its terms and not leave you stuck in a jam.

We were recently asked about options for requiring a major repair job to be completed in a timely fashion. The boat owner was hoping that a performance stipulation could be obtained with his repairer. While not unheard of, performance agreements in boat repair contracts are rare.

Our suggestion, in addition to the above ideas, is to meet the decision maker for the company you are hiring and let your “gut” decide if doing business with them feels good. If the decision maker is not the technician, meet the technician as well and by supporting the true professionalism in the industry, you will increase your boating enjoyment.

An interesting tactic one client used to pick a repairer was to ask the potential repairers to rate each other, and then she chose the one with the highest rating.

Finding water leaks

June 17, 2011March 9, 2016marineadmin

If you like boating and you own a boat, eventually you will have to deal with a water leak. “Nothing good ever comes from water inside a boat” – Jim Merritt (my favorite mentor). Every submersion claim I have ever handled has had the same cause …. too much water on the inside.

Though most water leaks don’t result in a submersion, stopping them as soon as they are detected will often eliminate more significant problems and expenses including professional restoration or cleaning of soft goods (headliner, carpet, bedding), remediating mould, or replacing deteriorated wood.

So, is the water from above or below? Remember, don’t taste it. To begin the process, put on your thinking cap and make your best guess. If water is accumulating in the bilge, assume the water is coming from below. Clean and dry the area to assure you have a leak and not a spill. If the direction of the source of the water is unknown, coat the bilge and the area around the bilge with powder, the trail of water through the powder will point you in the right direction. If you use cleaning powder, you can then use a rag and stop procrastinating that bilge cleaning job. You can continue using the powder trick in the direction of the leak until the source of the water is located.

Normal sources of water include propeller shaft seals, rudder ports, through hulls, and hoses. Any below waterline component can leak with the boat in a static condition, though some leaks are intermittent. Sometimes a shaft seal will leak with a shaft in a particular orientation. Some systems only leak while operating, particularly if the leak itself is above the static waterline. The engine(s) cooling systems and exhaust systems are primary candidates for leaks. The generator, air conditioner, waste system, and other raw water components/freshwater systems are potential sources to consider. A freshwater system leak is usually indicated by a cycling pressure pump. (No, it is not supposed to do that).

Determining the level of the waterline inside the boat can be tricky if there is no exterior through hull or other simple reference point. You can always detach a hose from a through hull and hope it is long enough to reach above the water level, or you can use a old trick (like before the Greek and Roman empires old). Get a long clear hose, fill it in the water beside your boat. Put your hand on one end and pull it to the place you want to check. Leave the other end of the hose in the water beside your boat, route part of the hose below the waterline and lift the end you’re holding above the waterline. Remove your hand to let air in the hose and the sea water level will be revealed.

If you located the leak and think you fixed it, make sure you have cleaned and dried the area, monitor it again in the near future to confirm you fixed the leak and take this task of your procrastination list.

If the leak is from above, put that thinking cap back on and begin by making your best guess of the source. Remember the construction method of most fiberglass boats includes a two piece deck (similar to the hull and hull liner); the lower piece or liner can often mask the true source of the leak and throw the leak detective off the trail. Vinyl or cloth head and side liners can also redirect the leak, resulting in the appearance of the leak quite a distance from the actual source. Think gravity, the water came through the deck at a point higher than the drip you are seeing in the cabin. Before you start taking things apart, utilize other resources available. Boat owners groups are often an excellent resource and other Sea Ray owners have likely skinned this cat. Manufacturers are also a wealth of knowledge and the Catalina engineering department is incredibly helpful and responsive.

If “non destructive” means of locating the deck leak are not resolving the issue, you will need to continue more active techniques. Consider hose testing for leaks. Realize that some leaks are very slow and this procedure can be tedious. Test only one potential leak source at a time. Spraying the whole foredeck only confirms that you have a leak.

Depending on the type of the installation, re-bedding hardware may be the next logical procedure. Realize that bedding compounds (caulking) has a finite life. Choose your new products appropriately, spend the extra money for strong, long lasting sealant, though be careful about the adhesive properties of some of these compounds.

Removing headliner is a daunting and troublesome task for most of us. However, once it is gone, the answers are often clear and apparent. And, just like in your house (think popcorn ceiling) that fuzzy headliner may be passé.

If you think a leak is from a tank, consider a dye test, it is cheaper and potentially less destructive than a pressure test. Air pressure can be used to test tanks and systems, depending on the configuration and soap bubbles can be helpful.

We often hear condensation blamed for high moisture conditions in boats. While condensation is a reality at certain times of the year, it is fairly easily controlled with heaters or de-humidifiers. And of course, our favorite way to reduce moisture in the cabin is to use the vessel regularly. Open it up when the sun comes up; get the air flowing by moving the vessel through the water with the foredeck hatch open. Ventilate the vessel, be creative. There are many ways to allow ventilation and still restrict moisture intrusion, but the best one is to take a cruise.

P.S. Remember: fungus deterioration in wood requires four things: wood, moisture, air and the proper temperature. You can only control the moisture.

This article was edited on February 26, 2016.

Don’t Drink the Water

May 20, 2011May 1, 2023marineadmin

I did it for decades. I still see others doing it regularly. Truly, I saw a professional captain do it this week. There’s water in the bilge and we want to know, is it fresh or salt? It does make a difference. In most instances, fresh water is from the water tank and can’t sink the boat. Salt water is from the ocean and can sink the boat. Knowing if it is fresh or salt water can assist in solving the problem of where the water came from. A taste quickly answers the question and then we continue on the process of solving the problem at hand. One solution for fresh water and another for salt water. No big deal …right? WRONG!

My wife laughed at the thought of someone tasting bilge water to determine its salinity. This article will do the most good and be most relevant to men; women don’t need this low level intelligence reprimand. Thank goodness because someone needs to take care of the kids’ safety! Now if you are a member of the smarter gender, keep reading, if only for the humor that we men actually taste bilge water.

One of my mentors often says, “Nothing good ever comes from water in the bilge.” Fresh water in the bilge can rot wood, promote mold, stink and is generally yucky. Salt water does not rot wood (trivia tidbit) but it causes corrosion, stinks and is also yucky. Whatever the source, it should be found and eliminated. I am not advocating a need for a perfectly dry bilge, and I have had friends who needed help to get over that obsession, but active, unexpected leaks should be addressed.

The bilge is usually a dirty, unclean, cesspool that collects all manner of pollutants and contaminates. The bilge is the bottom of a vessel in which there are tanks holding fuel and waste, engines have oil and coolant and there are all manner of poisons aboard. There are hoses with connections to fittings carrying the fuel and waste (and other toxins). The boat moves, vibrates, heats and cools, and these fluids do not stay contained. The leaking fluids usually find their way to the bottom of the boat, the bilge.

The normal maintenance of the boat, including washing the exterior and cleaning the interior results in contaminants in the bilge. Sinks, showers, sump collector and deck drains are sources for contaminants. Cleaning chemicals, gifts from birds, debris tracked in on shoes, and other people’s hair… blech!

An occupational health and safety doctor followed a marine surveyor on a job and then spoke to a surveyor’s association meeting. He started and ended with one clear message. In between, he discussed other significant safety issues like confined spaces, gas freeing of tanks, climbing ladders and big boats suspended over our heads, but above all he stressed one simple behavioral change. “Don’t taste the bilge water!”

Few people need to know if the bilge water is fresh or salt as often as a marine surveyor. However, as a boater, you will inevitably be asking that question at some point in your boating career. I did not realize how often this situation arose, until I stopped doing it. In my normal course of inspecting boats, I am asked if the water is salt or fresh once a week. It is often not said, but implied that I should taste it; after all I am the surveyor. I’ll suggest a safe way to answer this question later, but the most important immediate response is, “I aint tastin’ it, and you shouldn’t either.” I have noticed many marine professionals need to answer the question in order to continue up the logic tree of problem solving. As an owner, you can always pay someone to taste the water for you.

The good doctor that advised the large audience of marine surveyors against using our taste buds to determine salt or fresh, had sound reasons. He mentioned several diseases, including incurable ones like hepatitis. He also mentioned several other terms that I did not comprehend, and don’t want to, but more than one included the term “fecal”, enough said.

So, I don’t care how many times you have done it or how long you have been doing it, stop tasting the bilge water now. I am sure I have tasted the bilge water for as long, and as many times as most of you, but I stopped cold turkey, no 12 step program, no counseling, I didn’t start smoking or eat more pie as a substitute. I just stopped and have lived for several years now with no detrimental side effects. If I can stop, so can you!

Now, that we have eliminated tasting the water as a means of determining its source, which can be a very important determination, what do we do?

One method used by professionals is the use of silver nitrite. A few crystals of silver nitrate in the unknown water will quickly provide the answer. White deposits in the bottom mean salt water. A light cloud suspended indicates fresh water. It is very simple and quick.

It is very simple and definitive. We tried mixing fresh and salt water 50% and the resulting mixture still indicated salt water, but to a lesser extent.

Silver nitrate is crystalline at room temperature. It is available at chemical supply stores and may require a business licenses to acquire. It should be kept out of sunlight and off your skin. While it may not be a compound you currently have on your boat, the upside is worth the effort or you can simply bring a sample by our office and we will safety test it for free. Boat repair professionals or anyone who regularly needs to answer this question should invest in some silver nitrate and keep it handy.